As Ramazan proceeds with most days being very hot, and a few milder, focus increasingly is on the quality of our ‘Iftari’. Almost every eatery provides a special menu, but few of the type at Bombay Chowpatty in Gulberg.

The rush at this place is worth seeing. It is almost a riot. This is how best to hit for a six the calm that is supposed to come with fasting. Let me provide the reader with a rundown of what is available, and mind you at pretty high rates. The starter drinks number 14, which includes pomegranate, pineapple, falsa and an array of fresh juices, not to forget lemonade. In the milkshake section you have another 11 drinks including a ‘badami’ drink. In the special drinks you yet have four more, including pure cucumber and pure mint. Amazing stuff this place presents. A simple fast is reduced to a confusing set of choices.

Then comes the normal ‘Iftari’ fare with ‘samosas’ and ‘dahi bhallay’ and ‘allo chanay chaat’ and the variety is staggering. Add to this a pure South Indian menu with a variety of ‘dosas’ and wraps of all descriptions. I actually counted the number and it came to a staggering 57 types of different foods. Judging such an ‘Iftari’ variety when one is not in a normal state of mind is pretty difficult. But then we have yet to mention the barbeque and Chinese sections. To put it simply you have a choice of 101 foods and seven sweets, not to mention the variety of breads.

My concept of a peaceful ‘Iftari’ is a simple one at home, with one or two snacks with a saltish-sweet lemon drink, or ‘lassee’ followed by a strong cup of tea. A light dinner follows after prayers. To indulge in a 101-Iftari is bordering on the edge of you know what. But then this seems to be the popular way of doing things these days.

Let me judge this outing in the normal way. For food variety it gets seven, for food quality five, for food taste five (it may surprise you, but I must be fair), for ambience six, for service five (what do you expect in the mayhem at Iftari), for prices five (they are steep for the fares) and lastly the location and parking it gets four. This averages 4.8 out of nine, just barely above halfway point. Recommended if there is nothing at home.

Our concept of ‘eating out’ is an enjoyable experience where the food is good, is well-served in a comfortable and clean environment at a reasonable price with the relaxing assumption that one is able to approach the place without too much tension and park with ease. What we experience at this, and at other eateries at Iftari, is not what I would term strictly as a quality outing.

AWAMI IFTAR: The other day I actually stopped a motorcyclist rushing home for Iftari (in journalism we do stranger things) and forced him to tell me what he was taking home. He had three things, they being fruit, ‘dahi bhallay’ and some samosas. “At home ‘pakoras’ will be fresh and hot” says the excited man. Now this is what I call a reasonable and normal ‘Iftari’.

This ‘normal’ Pakistani Iftari is very low-key compared to what happens in most Arab countries, where eating is an all-night affair. In cooler climes, that this year also face hotter days, the fare is much simpler. This is strange because in a place like Britain the fast lasts a massive 19 hours. I will not mention Finland, from where a friend tells me their fast lasts 21 hours. Makes you think.

Published in Dawn, July 5th, 2015

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