Not many old houses remain in this part of the city, but Clifton has retained its distinct identity, primarily because of the sea... that smells like unspoken mirth. It may sound bookish, but Karachi's shoreline is full of tales. It tells you about its glorious and tragic past, it tells you about its uncertain present and it tells you about the secrets that it has kept in its unplumbed depths. If you wish to know about Karachi, lend an attentive ear to its sea.

Clifton is not a noisy neighbourhood (thank heavens for that). It has retained its quaint class. Especially the Do Talwar roundabout that forks out into two cool avenues is a sight not just to behold, but also to imbibe. Flanked by sheltering trees, because of which the weather usually behaves temperately, the streets off these roads have some old, some not-so-old and some relatively new (and spacious) houses, not to mention apartment blocks. Perhaps the real journey starts as soon as you climb down the Clifton bridge when on its right you see one or two old, stone-made houses. They're in breathtakingly good shape but the sound and fury on the two-way road often make these lovely abodes go unseen.

But let's reach the Do Talwar roundabout and take a look at Clifton Park. The board at its entrance gate on the left (where a couple of gory incidents took place and have become an indelible part of our chequered political history) says New Clifton Park 1953. Obviously the place is much older than that as the chai wala outside the facility would tell you. “Before it became a park it was just a patch of land.”

Moving ahead of the small park will take you to the real Clifton, particularly the old grand abodes (not in a big number these days) which point to the affluence and prosperity (you can add decency to it) that the area has always been associated with. The new bungalows can be misleading, but look hard and you'll be able to discover a smattering of precious structures, very well-constructed, artfully planned with a certain refined aesthetic sense.

If this sounds far-fetched, get into the lane where the majestic Mohatta Palace is located. The street has a few fine residences. They are palatial, they are grand, they are well-maintained and don't at all gel with the rest of the Clifton-Defence residential profile. People have been living here for decades and the neighbourhood has a serene feel to it. Getting closer to one or two (unoccupied) buildings might also spook you out; don't worry, it's just the emptiness that gives off a creepy vibe.

There's a view that before being named Clifton, the area was known as Mahadev because of an ancient temple. When the British took charge of Karachi, they tapped the coastline's potential and by 1842 it was fully developed. During the early colonial phase Clifton was used as a 'sanitarium' for British officials. In fact, at the time of a dangerous diarrhea outbreak, people from the walled city (Kharadar etc) either went to places like Thatta or came to Clifton. So it has always been a pur faza maqam. Then in the early 20th century when the First World War ended, it became an oft-visited destination 'for evening rides in American cars' and thus was alluded to as the Brighton of Karachi. In the 1930s Clifton blossomed into a trendy residential locality for well-to-do natives. And perhaps it still is.

By the way, what or where is Brighton? 'It's an old English place that in the 18th century developed into a health resort and with the advent of railways became a rendezvous for fun-lovers.'

Architect and conservationist Aneela Naeem says “One interesting thing about old Clifton is that in colonial times it was a kind of a recreational hub and the residential area was a place meant for holidaying. If the city was hit by an epidemic, many used to prefer coming here. Mind you the bungalows were never used by British officers; they belonged to the native rich. The reason it wasn't particularly popular as a homely place for the British was that the locality was far away from the city which is why the water supply to it was a problem. At the time water was supplied to Clifton through different transportation means, such as horse-carriages.

“As far as the architectural profile of this zone is concerned, it has more of Oriental influences, with Mohatta Palace being the chief example. Some houses are simpler but you can see Oriental detailing on their windows etc. There's a park behind Mohatta Palace which once had terraced steps, nice open spaces and green patches. It was famous among Karachiites for its delightful evenings.”

Now the question how did Clifton get its name? Not much can be said with certitude, and there may be more than one answer. According to architect Arif Hasan, “There's a hill in Brighton, which was a place meant for entertainment, called Clifton. When I was young I used to harbour the notion that Karachi's Clifton was named after it.”

The sun has just taken a dip in the sea. It is mid-October. The balmy evening has stretched its arms and is readying to hold Clifton, old Clifton, in its cool embrace.

mohammad.salman@dawn.com