If Karachi could speak, it would narrate not stories, but sagas. Tales of lost, forgotten names, of age-old structures that became victims of neglect, of hospitable cafés that were gobbled up by modernisation and greed.

Once upon a time, it would tell you, it was the place to be. Where sleek, grand cars would ply the roads and dainty women and dashing men could step down for a cup of coffee or more at restaurants on Victoria Road or Elphinstone Street. It would sigh and remember the lost children: the magnificent cafés known for their intellectual gentry and excellent cuisines, the famous Chinese restaurants of Saddar, the glory of Empress Market, and the treasure troves in Bohri bazaar.

For a Karachiite, the city’s eateries will always remain one of its most appealing features. It has been home to Mughlai, North Indian and Goan cuisines, exotic coffees and drinks and mouth-watering bakery products since the early 1900s, and perhaps earlier. But those who can recall the pre-partition days and the early decades of post-partition will know that restaurants and cafes then were never just a place to fill one’s stomach, or satisfy one’s taste buds. They were the reflection of its liberal culture, its tolerant mindset; where ideas were born, and raw talent was discovered and chiselled.

For many, these eateries were the seat of learning. Eastern Coffee House, for example, was a favourite with writers, thinkers, poets, artists, student leaders and even ICS officers. Then there was Café Zelin and Parisian bakery. And Café George, known for its scrumptious mutton patties, Café Oxford for its reasonably priced famous naan champ and tea, and Frederick’s Cafeteria which was quite popular with racing enthusiasts and became a meeting point for them twice a week. The recently renovated Café Grand also has a history to be proud of. Nestled in Edward House, this was a place frequented by the crème de la crème, the likes of Jinnah, Fatima Jinnah and Z.A Bhutto. Owned by one Mr Cumper, the café began operation in 1920s and despite the several changes it has undergone, it’s easy to imagine the royal aura it must have exuded during the good, old days. Says the present owner, Muhmmad Rafi Azeemi, “The Café used to house one of the oldest bakeries in town, and was famous for its tea and confectionaries. We’re proud of the clientele it has catered to over the years.”

Close to Café Grand, across Services Club stands Ampis, which began operating in the early ’60s as a snack and tea bar. Its older sibling Shezan was one of the few restaurants that boasted air-conditioning and was pricey enough to maintain its exclusivity. It had all the makings of success: good food and snacks, spacious and inviting ambience and it even had halls reserved for parties.

Pioneer Coffee House, situated at Victoria Road and set up by one Mr Merchant had another story to tell. This was the haunt of the lovers of khichra, dhansak and thali, and served a different menu each day of the week. In fact, it was so popular that reservations had to be made in advance. “I remember they served kichra on Tuesdays and around one o’clock, the waiters would come marching out of the kitchen with food to serve the clients who would be already seated,” recalls one gentleman.

Later, Alpha, situated across Zainab market began service similar to Pioneer’s.

In the early days, Karachi, especially Saddar, was home to some fine Iranian restaurants as well. Established by the Bahai community, these eateries served anything but Iranian cuisine, and for a mere one or two rupee, one could get a filling meal of rice or roti and saalan. No surprise then that Boman Abadan Irani or Café Seena — the latter located on Victoria Road —were popular hangouts for the young and the old. One of the surviving examples of such restaurants is the famous Café Subhani, known for its Chilloo kebab situated at Lucky Star.

In terms of affordability, Burns Road which for decades has maintained its status as the place for best nihari and paya in town, was also a strong contender. Those craving for haleem made their way to the race course. It was easy to find inexpensive meals at roadside make-shift hotels,

But for the students of the late ’60s and the early ’70s studying in schools in Saddar, the real blessing came in the guise of Café Student. Born on October 3, 1969 Café Student’s successful story began when its founder Haji Muhammad Ali started selling biryani from a ‘rerhi’ parked at Katrak Road. Mainly meant to serve students of the surrounding schools like St Joseph’s and St Patrick’s, the biryani was an immediate hit. Today we know the brand as Student Biryani.

“The biryani was priced at one rupee and 50 paisas initially,” says manager Gulrez Ahmed, “but we also offered 25 per cent discount to students.” Back then, the food was served in tin plates, and had to be eaten while standing, since there was no seating arrangement. With time, things progressed, and by mid-70s, the ‘rerhi’ had been converted into a shop of sorts, and there were chairs for the clients. The menu also expanded, offering nihari and curry. It was only in 1999 that Student Biryani shifted to its present premises in Saddar and eventually branched out in other localities of Karachi and abroad.

Fast food was not commonly available in those days — apart from the chaats, bhel puris and the likes sold in Bohri bazaar and across Parsi Fire Temple. The still existing Nimco at Bohri bazaar is another noteworthy mention. There was of course Tuc Shop situated off Tariq Road, but that was top of the line. At that time, Hanifia introduced the first-ever hunter beef burgers in Karachi from their New Town outlet. At an introductory price of 75 paisa, the burgers became immensely popular with all age groups, particularly students. Today, Hanifia — which had brought its business of cold cuts and hunter beef to Pakistan from Simla in the early ’50s — is still going strong and has maintained its reputation over the years.

As for the sweet-toothed ones, even today, a trip to Saddar can never be complete without a pilgrimage to Baloch Ices in Bohri Bazaar. One of the oldest post-partition ice-cream shops, its faluda was and still remains its USP. Many would also remember Hav Mor on Burns Road; unfortunately it’s no longer a force to reckon with. Back then there was also Manhattan soda fountain and its milk shakes with their unique-sounding, exotic names drew the younger crowd like magnet.