Some 16 years back when I first happened to step into Shezan Ampis for lunch, I knew it had been around for a while and was favoured particularly for its steaks. But it came as a surprise to find that the restaurant opened its doors for the first time in 1961. And since then it hasn't changed locations or owners, though it was the late Mr Shahnawaz who had started it and now his great-grandson Abid Nawaz looks after it. It's this quality to remain unchanged and maintain its particular touch in so many ways that makes Shezan Ampis, Karachi, one of my favourite places, especially when I want to enjoy some good food far from the maddening crowd. Unlike other eateries offering decent food, here we have never had to wait for a table to be vacated while watching other people eat. Maybe things are a little different at dinnertime but at lunch time one can easily find a place in this rather small eatery tucked away opposite the former Metropole hotel.
Coming back to the consistency factor, each time one visits this place, sometimes even after a gap of years, there hardly seems to be any change in the ambiance, decor, setting, service and food. And it's just as well that this is so because the ambiance is generally soothing with no loud music or charged up teens giggling and gossiping over fast food.
Though there are some fast food items on the menu, coming here means you are out to relax and linger over your food. Moreover, be prepared for a good wait in some cases for the dish you order will take time to be prepared, as the preparation starts only after you order, not reheated and served as it happens in some places.
As for the décor, there really isn't much to write or rave about except that it's simple but pleasant. No fancy fittings and furniture, no eye-catching wall plaster or poster, no designer dinning chairs or classy dinnerware — but who needs them? Why would a food lover need these when all that is required for a fulfilling dining experience is good food, efficient and friendly service, and a clean and calm setting. You get all these here and valet parking too! This last bit is the sweetest bite for diners like me who drive themselves.
Okay, enough of other things, let's talk about their famous steaks. I don't know if they are the best in town or not, they definitely are the best I have eaten — but I do confess that I haven't been to every steak house in town. It's usually chicken American steak for me, which is grilled chicken breast in a sizzling steak sauce, topped with pineapple, cheese, mushrooms and egg, all served with vegetables and French fries. While you let the dish cool down a bit, you can't resist helping yourself to the veggie decoration around the steak — dipping with rich sauce, everything well-prepared, nicely presented and full of flavour.
As any steak lover will vow, the real flavour of this dish comes out best in beef, which is why there are just two versions in chicken — American Steak and Pepper Steak. The rest of the eight are all beef, such as Steak-a-la Mexican, Smoked Barbecue Steae, Mushroom Steak, Italian Steak, Hawaiian Steak and Jalapeno Steak.
Abid Nawaz claims that the steak recipe is the original one tried and perfected under the supervision of his great-grandfather, in the 1970s. Mr Shahnawaz enjoyed experimenting with recipes and believed that a deep involvement with the restaurant was required to make it a place people like coming to and coming back to.
But if you feel like trying something else, you can select from their Chicken Delight section. Chicken Stroganoff is sinfully rich with a creamy sauce, and like all sinful things go, it's a delight to taste. And for those who would really like to throw caution to the wind and stop counting calories, Chicken Cordon Bleu comes in the shape of chicken breast filled with cheese and topped with a creamy sauce of sour cream, parsley and mustard. And then there are the usual suspects such as Shashlik, Jalfrazi and some Mexican flavours that are tangy and hot, served with rice or vegetables.
The servings are also very large, unless it's the burgers and sandwiches you are ordering, but then with all the accompanying items, these get to be a plateful too. A variety of lunch boxes are on offer for take away and with so many offices in the vicinity, these are well in demand.
Shezan Ampis, almost in its 50th year, has witnessed several variations in the eating and socialising scene of Karachi where once tea houses were the rage; people from all walks of life met there and sat for hours chatting and debating over a cup of tea and snacks. This restaurant, too, was a tea house for its initial years. Now that 'eating out' is all there is to life for many city dwellers, and a fancy joint in a fashionable eating street is what counts, the owners of Shezan are toying with the idea of opening up an outlet somewhere in DHA. But I needn't worry; Ampis is going to remain where it is.
