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Today's Paper | March 11, 2026

Published 28 Mar, 2010 12:00am

Slice of life

There is no dearth in the English language of idioms with reference to the universally popular dessert known as cake. When something is easy to accomplish it's 'a piece of cake' and when a second great thing happens in addition to the first, it's considered to be 'the icing on the cake'. And, of course, there are always those who will endeavour to 'have one's cake and eat it too'.

But what really 'takes the cake' is that the most well-known phrase in history which refers to cake is (wrongly) attributed to the much maligned French queen Marie Antoinette. 'Let them eat cake' she supposedly said, and provoked a bloody revolution. When in fact it was an unnamed princess who, upon hearing of the protesting peasants on the outskirts of Paris, suggested that 'Quils mangent de la brioche' (let them eat brioche).

In the princess's defence it must be pointed out that brioche is in fact a type of bread, albeit a considerably enriched one with a high egg and butter content. This sifting of facts may constitute a case of too little, too late for the House of Bourbon in France, but what still sticks is the cake versus bread debate at large.

Is it banana bread or banana cake? Or both? What baking enthusiasts call the banana-based sweet bread looks like a cake, feels like a cake and certainly tastes like cake, so then why do they insist on calling it 'bread'?

Similarly, are those little mini cakes cupcakes, or are they muffins? And what is the difference between the two? Technically, purists will tell you, cupcakes are the official mini cakes because they are light and sweet and often come topped with deliciously decadent icing (or deliciously decadent frosting in the case of North Americans).

Meanwhile muffins do not belong to the cake family per se; they are significantly heavier in texture than cupcakes, tend to contain fruit (such as blueberries, peaches or raisins) and/or nuts (walnuts, pecans, almonds) and are usually eaten at breakfast, especially in the US.

And, oh, historically, in England and Ireland, cupcakes were once popularly referred to as fairy cakes. Why fairy? Perhaps because they are so light and airy? Well, in any case, fairies are not the only other worldly beings that get an honourable mention in the world of cakes.

Angels are invoked at the baking of the white or yellow cake which is known as angel's food cake. And why are the celestial beings involved in the first place? Due to its airy lightness most likely, for which this particular cake is said to be the 'food of the angels'. The foam-like texture is owed to the lack of fat and is achieved mainly with egg whites that are beaten until stiff and then gently folded into the other ingredients.

Never one to get left behind, the devil also gets his due thanks to a variety of chocolate cake known as devil's food cake, which is considered to be the 'counterpart' of angel food cake. The devilish variation is a popular American butter cake and it is a moist, butter-heavy, rich coffee-chocolate layer cake — all of which should help to explain why the devil was tagged for this one.

Speaking of layers, rich and chocolate cake, here's a riddle when is a cake not a cake? When it is a gateau (pronounced ga-toe). And what, pray tell, is a gateau? Apart from being the French word for cake, it is a sponge cake which features layers of cream and filling. The popular Pakistani favourite Black Forest cake is the perfect example of a gateau chocolate sponge cake filled with layers of whipped cream and preserved cherries, with an abundance of maraschino cherries and chocolate shavings on top.

But what happens when, instead of cherries on top of the cake, you are faced with cherries or slices of pineapple lining the bottom of the cake? Chances are that you have just met an upside down cake. Smile warmly and be very glad to have made its acquaintance. After all, it's a cake which comes with its own lovely warm caramelised fruit topping — need I say more?

Some might suggest that that this fluff piece has the consistency of melted butter and raises more questions than it answers. Keep talking; I'm listening... while I relive the experience of a red velvet cupcake with luscious cream cheese frosting which I encountered at a famous bakery in London; dare I say 'I had my cake and ate it too.'

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