Colombian peace allows cultural jewels to re-emerge
SAN GUAVIARE: Deep inside the lush green and humid Amazonian jungle, a sinewing path stops abruptly in front of a giant rock face decorated with ancient paintings of anacondas, jaguars and tortoises.
For millennia, indigenous Colombians have been illustrating their mythology in rock art, but these national treasures laid hidden — and preserved — during decades of war between government forces and Marxist rebels.
In the heart of the Guaviare jungle, a strategic area that armed groups continue to fight over, lies a Unesco World Heritage site national park in which the Serrania de Chiribiquete table top mountains stand tall like giant drums.
The rock frescoes adorning their sides occupy an invaluable place in the understanding of Amazonian settlement.
“It was very difficult to work in the Guaviare because it was the epicentre... of the war these last 50 years,” Ernesto Montenegro, general manager at Colombia’s Anthropology and History Institute (ICANH), said. “Although there were exploration missions at the start of the 20th century they stopped because of the [precarious] situation.”
Since the 2016 peace accord that ended the war with FARC guerillas, adventurers have ventured forth once again to try to decipher the secrets of the ritual drawings, some of which date back at least 12,000 years.
Sacred spirits
The area is sacred to the indigenous people of the jungle and not everyone has the right to even approach the rock art.
“Only wise men are worthy of entering sacred sites, in which spirits dwell. The common mortals should not even allow their thoughts to wander in,” said Andres Lopez, a historian at the institute, as he traipsed through mud to a rock painting spanning 30 metres (100 feet) in height and 100 metres in length.
That site lies an hour by jeep away from the village of Raudal in the Guaviare department, an area known for coca plantations and cocaine production that once marked the front line between government soldiers and FARC rebels.
An hour by boat down the River Guaviare, where military vessels mounted with machine guns still patrol, a hamlet on stilts, surrounded by right-wing paramilitaries until 2000, remains the stronghold of the First Front — former FARC dissidents who refuse to disarm.
Montenegro says that doesn’t stop archaeologists returning to Guaviare, insisting they are “benefitting from the peace process” that ended the decades-long guerrilla war.
The remaining dissidents, when they come across explorers, impose territorial limits — but seem unopposed to the study of cultural relics that remain little-known in the country.