CHAKWAL: There is a shop located on the main Talagang Road, in front of the General Post Office in Chakwal city. As one passes by this stop, it is impossible not to get attracted by the sweet aroma emanating from the various kinds of sweets decked in the showcases. The outlet welcomes its customers with the swooning fragrance of desi ghee and khoya (dry milk).

Stepping into the rear portion of the shop, one can see five to six workers busy in making various kinds of sweets. However, the attention automatically pans to one man in the corner, engrossed in making a special item in a container at a distance. His clothes are soaked in sweat; with one hand he stirs the ingredients in the container using a spatula, with the other he wipes his face clean. This man is not a worker at this shop; his name is Nisar Ahmed, and the shop is named after him – the ‘Nisar Hotel’.

At the age of 68, Nisar Ahmed does not sit as a grumpy boss at his shop. He wakes up at 3am to reach his shop to prepare all kinds of sweets under his supervision. However, there is one delicacy that he does not leave at the mercy of his workers, which is the hallmark of his shop, the special barfi.

Nisar Hotel is among one of the most famous landmarks of the city, the sweets have gained international fame

Ahmed has been involved in this business since 1968. He is assisted by his younger brother, Allah Yar, son Sanaullah and nephew Iftikhar Ahmed.

The sweet, barfi, which is made of khoya and sugar, is cherished by people of all ages. It is considered the leading item in a pack of mixed sweets. Children eat it fondly, while the elders settle their scores on the condition of this delectable cube of dairy goodness. There are only a few places in Punjab, which are known for producing the best barfi in the country and Chakwal’s Nisar Hotel is one of them.

Whenever a person visits Chakwal, he or she is always expected to bring back a sample of barfi from this shop.

This product of Nisar Hotel makes its way to every nook and corner of not just Pakistan but the entire globe.

The demand for this sweet increases manifold on Eid as many people prefer to exchange it as a gift.

The success story of Nisar Hotel is replete with unwavering passion, steadfastness, devotion and continuous hard labour. Starting his business with just 5kg milk in 1968, Nisar Ahmed’s story is not only interesting, it is also inspirational.

“My father used to run a shop in our native village, Sidhar, where he would also sell barfi, among other sweets,” Nisar recalls, as he sits in front of his establishment. Nisar’s father, Mian Khan, was known for his home-made sweets. Nisar, who used to work part time at his father’s shop in the village, left his school education after ninth grade and started working as a labourer at a factory in Nowshera.

He, however, left that job after three years and settled in Chakwal along with his family in 1968. “I got a shop on rent for just Rs70 per month and started making tea from 5kg milk,” he says.“At that time, one could enjoy a cup of tea for 20 paisas only,” Nisar recollects. Besides tea, Nisar also started making barfi and some other sweets like jalebi, laddu, dhoda and gulab jamun at his shop.

“We started making our sweets with desi ghee, which was available at Rs6 per kg at that time and we sold the barfi for Rs6 per kg and jalebi at Rs2 per kg,” he reminisces.

“It was a time when milk was sold for 40 paisas per kg and we used to get 40kg milk. At that time, even the bigger hotels would not get this quantity of milk,” he says.

Interestingly, Nisar himself did not name his hotel, rather the name caught on as his customers started calling his shop ‘Nisar Hotel’.

“I formally installed a board bearing that name after five years,” he adds.

Currently, Nisar Hotel offers many kinds of sweets, along with tea and samosas. A bowl of yoghurt and samosas are among the most consumed items at this hotel.

“Fifty kg of each, barfi and dhoda and 1,500 samosas are sold almost daily. On Eid, we sell around 70 to 80 kgs of barfi,” Nisar told Dawn. “I am personally involved in the production of the sweets and this is the secret of our success,” he says.

“Nisar Hotel has a rich heritage of taste, which has been and is a blessing for the taste-conscious residents of Chakwal,” comments Tariq Mehmood, a regular visitor to Nisar Hotel.

“I simply love their barfi,” says Mudassir Zaman, another regular customer.

Published in Dawn, July 28th, 2014