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July 07, 2008 Monday Rajab 3, 1429



Waiter, waiter there’s a cricket in my bread



By Deborah Jones


VANCOUVER(Canada): The owners of Vij’s restaurant knew they were taking a huge gamble when they decided to add bugs to the menu of their upscale, internationally-known Vancouver eaterie.

“Eating bugs is a foreign concept in North America,” co-owner Meeru Dhalwala said.

“People here think bugs are dirty. There’s a yuck factor.” But gram for gram, experts say insects are more nutritious and better for the environment to produce than popular foods such as beef and chicken.

And so for mostly ecological reasons, Dhalwala and her husband Vikram Vij who describe themselves as both environmentalists and food experts decided to introduce crickets on their new summer menu at the restaurant, which specialises in Punjab-influenced Indian food.Apart from having to battle public perception however, Vij’s ran straight into another problem the American crickets they were dishing up required an import license from Canadian authorities for human consumption.

So the crickets are off the menu again, although Vij’s owners are hoping it’s only a temporary setback.

“I was not looking to scare people,” said Vij, referring to his recipe for a spicy paranta made with roasted, ground cricket. “I was looking for nutritious, environmental and flavourful” dishes.

Paranta is a type of Indian flatbread, which Vij’s made with a dough of ground crickets, flour, spices and buttermilk, then served with tidbits of turnip cooked with spices.

The tiny crickets, which were not visible in the paranta, gave the bread a granular consistency similar to buckwheat pancakes with a nutty flavour.

Insects are common fare in many countries, especially in Africa and Asia.

Historically, they were a staple in the diet of native North Americans. But in Europe and North America, a bug on a plate or in a drink still shocks.

“WE’RE GETTING HATE MAIL”: Yet with food prices soaring, and the cost of producing meat a hot topic of discussion, the potential of insects as human food has been raised at science conferences and in magazine and newspaper articles.

Vij’s used crickets raised in Washington State on organic apples and potatoes, which are sold as human food in the United States.

But because the American crickets lacked a Canadian import permit as food fit for human consumption, Vij’s was temporarily forced to take them off the menu.

“Hopefully it won’t take long,” said Richard Taki of the local public health agency. Crickets “have been sold around the US and used for food items. I can’t see it being a problem”.

If they fail to get the necessary permit, Dhalwala said: “I’ll figure out how to get a British Colombia farmer to raise crickets for “legal” human consumption in Canada.

But the cricket dish has stirred controversy in the local Indian ethnic community.

“We’re getting hate mail,” said Dhalwala, with people accusing Vij’s of “degrading Indian food, saying that we’re humiliating Indian food”.

Dhalwala, whose first career was in international development, said Vij’s has tried to incorporate “social democratic” principles such as profit-sharing into its concept since opening in 1996.—AFP







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