May 28, 2008	Wednesday	Jamadi-ul-Awwal 22, 1429

BEIRUT: The ‘party capital’ of the Middle East seems to be awakening after an 18-month slumber. As news of a political agreement between feuding Lebanese factions and an imminent presidential election circulated on Wednesday (May 21), Lebanese almost immediately began to gather in the Beirut Central District while the tent city erected by the opposition was still being dismantled.

As the crowds thickened, the architecturally diverse area, where old buildings stand among massive contemporary structures a reflection of Lebanon’s many contradictions was clearly coming back to life.Whether for a happy or sad occasion, Lebanese traditionally enjoy getting together to enjoy a good meal, a good dance, or a good cry. In Lebanon, even a protest is an opportunity to be merry. After the assassination of former prime minister Rafik Hariri in 2005, chic Lebanese donned their best red and white outfits the colours of the anti-Syria March 14 Movement to take to the streets to protest Syria’s presence in Lebanon, which is accused by many of engineering Hariri’s death.

The party, however, was short-lived, as the momentum of March 14 slowly ebbed, overshadowed by a brutal conflict pitting the ruling majority against the opposition.

On Dec 1, 2006, the opposition began a continuing protest in the heart of Beirut. Luxury stores, nightclubs and restaurants had to pack up their music, narguilehs (water pipes), and tables and chairs, and bid adieu to the hedonistic crowds. Many closed down, while others waited for better days to come. The young and the beautiful emigrated towards more peaceful neighbourhoods, where finding a parking spot and walking around was less of a daunting task.

As tensions intensified in the Land of the Cedars, the unwanted ghost of sectarianism was resurrected during the week of May 7, 2008. Violent combats between majority and opposition militias took place in the streets of Lebanese cities and villages. As the horror of the violence mounted, no one imagined that now the killings would be short-lived, and that the party lifestyle would resume again.

As a deal between the warring factions and a swift presidential election were announced, the opposition tents began to be removed within hours. Flower beds were planted swiftly, as if to hide the ugliness of all that had previously transpired.

“The Beirut Central District has been deserted since the Hariri assassination. During the recent mini civil war, it was abandoned it remained silent and empty as if forgotten by the living,” says security officer Hussein Hussein, standing by the posh Patchi chocolatier.

By Thursday evening, however, the living were back on the cobblestone streets. Three young women, standing among the crowd, were watching a stage specially erected across from luxury department store Aishti for the popular political show Kalam El-Nass. “We’re reclaiming our downtown after a very long absence,” one said. Another said: “It feels good to be able to walk once again along the intricate streets, window shop and have dinner provided we can find a table!”

A few metres away, the bakery Paul and Lina’s Café, both French franchises, were packed with people having dinner, or enjoying animated discussions. A few other restaurants had opened. Others remained closed, but with waiters scurrying behind the window panes, cleaning floors and kitchen utensils.

Further up the road, passing the old Greek Orthodox church, stands a large limestone and blue majestic mosque. The final resting place of Hariri, the area seems to finally be at peace.

—Dawn/ The IPS News Service