Scraping the sky in Shanghai
By F.S. Aijazzudin
THERE was a time when every second person in China was called either Wong or Chang. Today, almost every second person one encounters wears the name tag: ‘Trainee’, as if the next generation has been given another common surname. It is the ubiquitous symbol of China’s determination to learn everything about everything, to gain experience quickly so that it cannot only compete with the rest of the world, but in time overtake it.
That fervour manifests itself in unlikely settings. A seven-year-old only child in Shanghai recites his English homework ‘Mother’/ ‘Father’ to himself in the internet cafe managed by his mother from her front parlour.
“How much for the internet?”
The boy responds by pencilling laboriously: “Sixty hours for 10 yuan.”
His mother immediately corrects him: “No. Sixty hours for five yuan.”
It is this spirit of commercial savvy and swift decision-making that has always distinguished China’s commercial capital — Shanghai — from its mandarin rival Beijing. For centuries, Shanghai has been China’s front parlour, the portal through which it received and traded goods and services on behalf of the mainland. However, it was never able to rise above being provincial and downtrodden, a despondent imperial after-thought, while its rival Hong Kong — Britain’s Gibraltar in the Far East — flaunted itself as a showpiece of high-rise capitalism.
The Harvard economist John Kenneth Galbraith visited Shanghai in the 1970s and driving along its river-front Bund commented on its appearance: ‘The great, solid Victorian buildings, denuded of their signs, have a vacant, heavy forlorn look. We’ve heard that the upper floors of some of the old imperial skyscrapers are unused. Feudal palaces are visited by the masses but not the one-time offices of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank.’
Since then, the transformation of these buildings has been more than cosmetic. For one, they have been re-named: the Russo-Chinese Bank building has become the China Foreign Exchange Trade Centre, the Palace Hotel has become the South Building of Peace Hotel, and the Jardine Matheson Building is now the Foreign Trade Building. By day, they function as integral elements of Shanghai’s present; by night, they moonlight as floodlit reminders of Shanghai’s colonial past.
On the opposite side of the Huangpu river lies the Lujiazui finance and trade zone — a pointed peninsula dominated by an almost fairy-tale Oriental Pearl TV tower and skyscrapers along the Lujiazui Green Belt that would make a New Yorker homesick for Central Park and a Chinese resident in Hong Kong homesick for Shanghai.
While Hong Kong may spend the next decade fretting about the skyscraping costs of the Hong Kong Disneyland (it needs $3.5 billion to recoup its investment), Shanghai has better things to do with its time and its money. The Shanghai Municipal Development & Reform Commission has already articulated its intentions in its Five-Year Plan (2006-2010). It is to convert the city and surrounding district into ‘an international economic, financial, trading and shipping centre and a socialist modern international metropolis.’
Is that too tall an order? Certainly not — not to a city that has 14 continuous years of double digit GDP growth (it has sustained an annual average of 11.9 per cent) and has reached a GDP of RMB 915 billion yuan ($118 bn) in the year 2005. The growth in the per capita disposable income of urban households has remained slightly above or below 12 per cent since 2002, but, more importantly, the gap between the disposable income of Shanghai’s urban and rural households has been narrowed dramatically. In 2000, the ratio was 5:1. By 2005, it was slightly less than 1.1:1.
In 2005 alone, Shanghai doubled its rapid transit mileage, tripled its international container throughput, and quintupled its expressway mileage. Shanghai’s goals are deceptively simple. First, focus on the financial sector, i.e. achieve a total market transaction volume of 10,000 billion yuan and let its financial institutions accumulate assets that will be the equivalent of 10 per cent of China’s entire wealth. Second, concentrate on the logistics sector: improve infrastructural facilities such as the deep water port, Pudong international airport and the container terminal facilities. Third, in consonance with Deng Xiaoping’s feline advice, develop the MICE industry: create facilities to foster meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions. Fourth, through a system of clusters establish an international automotive town, a refined steel base, a chemical industrial zone, a micro-electronic industrial base. Fifth, construct Lingang new city equipment industry and Shanghai ship-building bases. The list of projects is endless, the energy unstoppable, and Shanghai’s commitment to them irreversible.
The main indices of Shanghai’s 11th five year plan might have read like a bureaucrat’s wish list, had someone not included an additional column in the goals for 2010. He or she had an eye on completion certificates rather than on foundation stones or even milestones. Most of the targets are marked ‘anticipative’, and then suddenly one encounters something sharp and ‘binding’. The proportion of government investment in education will be (not is anticipated to be) 4 per cent of GDP. Reduction of gross energy consumption per unit of GDP will be (not might be) 20 per cent of the level in the year 2000. Renovation of second-class old type alleys in the inner city will be completed by the year 2010.
Everything that is being done in Shanghai today is a prelude to the world expo that will be (not may be) held there in 2010. The international bazaar with participants from 200 countries will last 184 days, from May 1 to October 31. During these six months Shanghai expects to host 70 million visitors. That is six times the population of Karachi — a city Shanghai twinned with after a delegation from Shanghai visited Karachi in the 1960s and came away astounded by its modernity and high-rise office blocks of the National Bank and Habib Bank Plaza.
Not surprisingly, while digging foundations for the buildings of the future Shanghai uncovers it own past. Many of the earliest exhibits dating from 3,000 BC in the Shanghai Museum, for instance, have been unearthed in the last 20 years or so. Precious artefacts were either looted by western pillagers during the Boxer rebellion or secreted out by Chiang Kai-shek when defeated he fled to Taiwan in 1949.
If you want to admire the best of Chinese red lacquer furniture or mutton fat jade, you have to visit the collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the British Museum in London. If you want to study the craft of Chinese snuff bottles, a significant collection is in private possession in Baltimore in the United States. And if you want to examine Chinese imperial robes with their distinctive yellow silk (a colour only emperors could wear), you will have to travel to the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin. This library incidentally also contains a priceless collection of 15 books etched or engraved in gold letters on green jade slabs. Ten of these manuscripts are inscribed with texts by the 18th century scholar-emperor Ch’ien Lung.
As generations of Chinese and later Indian craftsmen learned — usually at the cost of their patron — jade is a notoriously difficult stone to carve. Like most stones, it is difficult because you cannot add to it. You can only subtract from it. China’s modern craftsmen no longer take pride in subtraction, only in addition. Their achievements are incremental, not reductive.
One has only to visit the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Centre in the central People’s Square to see the Shanghai its ageing city-fathers envisioned. Spread at one’s feet is an extensive scale model showing the roads, the expressways, the skyscrapers, the industrial estates, the new airport, the deep-water port — both by day and at the flick of a switch, by night.
Civilisations like China carry post-dated cheques drawn on their future. The time has come for China to redeem its own. If it is able to build modern skyscrapers, it can do so securely because of the foundations laid down by a previous leadership. ‘Not a day’s rest do I ever have from the burden of my vast people. Their welfare is constantly at my heart.’ Those words are from a poem composed in his old age by the emperor Ch’ien Lung. They could as easily have been penned by Deng Xiaoping who showed Shanghai the sky.

