April 9, 2003 was the day Baghdad fell to US forces. One year later, it is rising up against them. Donald Rumsfeld claims that the resistance is just a few "thugs, gangs and terrorists". This is dangerous wishful thinking. The war against the occupation is now being fought out in the open, by regular people defending their homes and neighbourhoods - an Iraqi intifada.
"They stole our playground," an eight-year-old boy in Sadr City told me this week, pointing at six tanks parked in a soccer field, next to a rusty jungle gym. The field is a precious bit of green in an area of Baghdad that is otherwise a swamp of raw sewage and uncollected rubbish.
Sadr City has seen little of Iraq's multibillion-dollar "reconstruction", which is partly why Moqtada al-Sadr and his Mahdi army have so much support here. Before the US occupation chief, Paul Bremer, provoked Sadr into an armed conflict by shutting down his newspaper and arresting and killing his deputies, the Mahdi army was not fighting coalition forces, it was doing their job for them.
After all, in the year it has controlled Baghdad, the Coalition Provisional Authority still hasn't managed to get the traffic lights working or to provide the most basic security for civilians.
So in Sadr City, Sadr's so-called "outlaw militia" can be seen engaged in such subversive activities as directing traffic and guarding factories from looters. In a way, the Mahdi army is as much Bremer's creation as it Sadr's: it was Bremer who created Iraq's security vacuum - Sadr simply filled it.
But as the June 30 "hand-over" to Iraqi control approaches, Bremer now sees Sadr and the Mahdi as a threat that must be taken out - along with the communities that have grown to depend on them. Which is why stolen playgrounds were only the start of what I saw in Sadr City this week.
In al-Thawra hospital, I met Raad Daier, a 36-year-old ambulance driver with a bullet in his lower abdomen, one of 12 shots fired at his ambulance from a US Humvee. According to hospital officials, at the time of the attack, he was carrying six people injured by US forces, including a pregnant woman who had been shot in the stomach and lost her child.
I saw charred cars that dozens of eye-witnesses said had been hit by US missiles, and local hospitals confirmed that their drivers had been burned alive. I also visited Block 37 of Sadr City's Chuadir district, a row of houses where every door was riddled with holes. Residents said US tanks rolled down their street firing into their homes. Five people were killed, including Murtada Muhammad, aged four.
And I saw something that I feared more than any of this: a copy of the Quran with a bullet hole through it. It was lying in the ruins of what was Sadr's headquarters in Sadr City. On April 8, according to witnesses, two US tanks broke down the walls of the centre while two guided missiles pierced its roof, leaving giant craters in the floor and missile debris behind.
The worst damage, however, was done by hand. The clerics at the Sadr office say that US soldiers entered the building and crudely shredded photographs of Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani, the top Shia cleric in Iraq.
When I arrived at the destroyed centre, the floor was covered in torn religious texts, including several copies of the Quran that had been ripped and shot through with bullets. And it did not escape the notice of the Shias here that hours earlier, US soldiers had bombed a Sunni mosque in Falluja.
For months the White House has been making ominous predictions of a civil war breaking out between the majority Shias, who believe it's their turn to rule Iraq, and the minority Sunnis, who want to hold on to the privileges they amassed under Saddam Hussein's regime. But this week the opposite appears to have taken place.
Both Sunni and Shia have seen their neighbourhoods attacked and their religious sites desecrated. Up against a shared enemy, they are beginning to bury ancient rivalries and join forces against the occupation.
Instead of a civil war, they are on the verge of building a common front. You could see it at the mosques in Sadr City on Thursday: thousands of Shias lined up to donate blood, destined for Sunnis hurt in the attacks in Falluja. "We should thank Paul Bremer," Salih Ali told me. "He has finally united Iraq. Against him." - Dawn/ Guardian Service
The mess is getting messier
By Omar Kureishi
"Give me liberty or give me death." Patrick Henry gave himself an either-or option. The Iraqis are getting both. As the first anniversary of the capture of Saddam Hussain was marked there was a deafening explosion in Baghdad, a stone's throw away from where Saddam Hussain's statue once stood and which was toppled amidst scenes of celebrations and pictures of this were seen all over the world and like a commercial, repeated ad nauseum.
It was a moment rich in symbolism. "We got him," Paul Bremer, the pro-consul in Iraq had announced much in the way the capture of Al Capone would have been announced.
Alas, as with the capture of Al Capone, the streets of Chicago had not been made safer, gangland killing continued and the boot-legging industry continued to flourish and organised crime spread its tentacles and became the largest single industry in the United States, only the manufacturers of weapons and ancillary military hardware was able to match it in turnover.
The upsurge of violence in Iraq last week is being dismissed as the last gasp of the "thugs" and the "die-hards" and the catch-all "remnants of the Saddam regime." And at the same time, we are being assured that "a new dawn is approaching." Hundreds of Iraqis were killed last week in savage reprisals and the Marines were back on the streets, not knocking on doors but knocking down doors.
Winning hearts had been put on a back-burner. The Mission Accomplished had got unaccomplished or unravelled. It is still not accepted that there is an insurgency, as if, there is in the word some hidden and sinister message.
There was in the existence of weapons of mass destruction a massive intelligence failure. That's the best face that is being put on it though there is much dissembling and semantic jugglery. Has there been another intelligence failure about the nature and extent of the resistance?
The Vietcong too were seen as thugs, peasants in pyjamas, as if, this conferred a lowly status and the GIs called them Charlie and "zapping Charlie" was a kind of sport. They were also called "gooks."
Until the Tet Offensive which became a rude awakening though the generals in their safe hide-outs in Saigon kept sending their optimistic reports to Washington DC. The war was being won until it was lost.
No one remembers the Korean War. That war started as a civil war when the North Korean armies crossed the 38th Parallel. Harry Truman, no doubt seeing the hidden hand of the People's Republic of China, jumped in head first and was able to get the United Nation's backing. The Soviet Union on some pretext was boycotting the United States and Taiwan represented China as one of the permanent members on the Security Council.
That war is now remembered in the television comedy MASH. Which I make a point of seeing, clownish surgeons carrying out meat-ball surgery and with hearts of gold. It makes war seem like fun as the wounded are stitched up. That war too went badly and there are still two Koreas, one a member in good standing of the Axis of Evil.
The late president Eisenhower had warned that America should not get involved in land wars in Asia. Instead, "let Asians fight Asians." He had also warned against the military-industry complex, the alliance between the hard-tops and big business, a sharing out of labour, one destroys and the other re-builds and both make a profit.
I heard General Wesley Clark being interviewed by Fox News on the latest violence in Iraq. He was not able to paint a rosy picture despite being on Fox News but he did make the point, in a circuitous way, that with friends like Ahmed Chalabi who needed enemies? A lot of the flawed intelligence was provided by Iraqi exiles and one is surprised that so much store was put on their input.
They are the ones who convinced the Americans and the British that the coalition forces would be received with open arms and with garlands. Though I would imagine that they did not need much convincing.
One is more inclined to believe the counter-terrorist expert Richard Clark that after 9/11, the priority was going after Saddam Hussain and not terrorism. Condoleezza Rice did not shed much light though she airily dismissed it. At Camp David, Paul Wolfowitz did recommend it but George Bush made the war on terrorism the priority. But at the same meeting a contingency plan against Iraq was drawn up.
One would have thought that after 9/11 all minds would have been focused on terrorism. There was no link between Saddam Hussain and Al Qaeda. That much at least the intelligence agencies should have established.
Was it a case of: "My mind is made up. Don't confuse me with the facts?" Condoleezza Rice didn't have anything to say about Iraq. She was testifying about events and activity before 9/11. She wasn't going to spoil her boss's case.
The Commission is looking into the what and how about terrorism. Not about the why. To this day we haven't been able to distinguish between the terrorist and the freedom fighter. More and more we are lumping them together, putting back the chances of fighting terrorism.
On another 9/11 many years ago, the democratically elected government of Chile was violently overthrown and Allende was replaced by Pinochet. There is ample evidence to suggest that not many tears were shed for Allende in Washington DC and other strongholds of democracy.
It was Pinochet who was embraced. There is a similarity in the way he conducted business to Saddam Hussain. But as is so typical, while democracy remains the lofty goal, there are many roads that lead to it. It can get confusing.