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DAWN - the Internet Edition Next Story

June 1, 2003 Sunday Rabi-ul-Awwal 29, 1424





Textile, leather exports may face ban from EU, US



By Parvaiz Ishfaq Rana


KARACHI, May 31: Export of textile and leather goods, which constitute over 70 per cent of total exports, could be subjected to crippling blow, including imposition of ban from the European Union, the US and other buyers, because both the industries still use dangerous substances and preparations that pose cancer risks.

The European Parliament and the Council of European Union last year issued directive relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations generally known as ‘azocolourants’.

These measures were adopted to protect life and safety of consumers of textile and leather goods containing certain azodyes having the capacity to release certain arylamines, which may pose cancer risks.

The measures adopted by the EC are going to be strictly followed by its member states from September 11, 2003, under which any import consignment could be subjected to lab tests to ensure that no such dangerous substance or preparations have been used in dyeing or printing of fabrics and tanning of leather.

Despite the fact that less than three months are left for facing this situation, but so far neither the government nor the private sector has made a law or system to check the use of such dangerous substances like azodyes which are still being widely used by both the industries to make extra profits, lamented former chairman, Pakistan Bedwear Exporters Association (PBEA), Shabir Ahmed.

The European Commission adopted these measures after consulting the Scientific Committee on Toxicity, Ecotoxicity and the Environment (CSTEE), which had confirmed that cancer risks posed by textile and leather goods coloured by certain azodyes, give cause of concern.

Taking note of the CSTEE suggestions, the European Commission on September 11, 2002, through its official journal directed its member states that in order to protect human health, the use of dangerous azodyes and placing on the market of some articles coloured with such dyes should be prohibited.

This means that a one-year time was given by the EC to phase out the use of such chemicals. Unfortunately, no work has been done so far to curtail the use of certain azodyes, which pose cancer risks not only to the consumers, but also industrial workers who are equally exposed to such risks.

“After getting verifications from the supplier of printed fabric that azodyes have been used, only last week my buyer who was on a visit to Pakistan refused to accept the consignment and asked me not to load containers with such textile articles,” Mr Shabir said.

He said it meant presently not only “our exports are at a stake, but also the lives of our domestic consumers, particularly women, who mostly use printed lawns during summer season are also exposed to cancer risks.”

“We would like to know what our bureaucracy and people at the helm of affairs has been doing for the last one year when the EC made public these measures in its official journal of September 11, 2002, and even gave a deadline that could be easily met to phase out the use of such dangerous chemicals by the industry,” he exhorted.

Even from now on if shipments of textile and leather products are allowed to move out without a check, Mr Shabir feared that it is very much possible that by the time they reach market places in Europe and the US the deadline of September 11, 2003, would have passed.

Consequently, Shabir Ahmed said, “our exports of both textile and leather goods are fully exposed to drastic actions from these countries, which may even impose total ban if any case of using azodyes is detected.”

The only way out, he said, was that the government should immediately come out with a law of imposing total ban on use, manufacturing and importing of such chemicals and those having such stocks should be given one week time to destroy them. And in case of defiance severe action should be taken which may include rigorous imprisonment for a period of six months, he added.

He further said the Synthetic Fibre Development and Application Centre set up with the assistance of UNIDO and funds from the Export Development Fund for testing such chemicals was charging very highly for each test, which was not possible for small and medium size exporters to pay. Such test, he said, should be charged at nominal rates to certify the export consignments.






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