Of Nawabs and Nightingales: LAHORE LITERARY SCENE
By Ashfaque Naqvi
WITH no worthwhile literary function to attend in the city, I kept looking for reading material, evidently books, to keep myself busy during the week. In the process, I laid my hands on one published in India. It is written by Moosa Raza, a Muslim with a first class from the Madras University, who qualified in 1960 for the Indian Administrative Service, the successor of the Indian Civil Service in post-partition India.
He served as collector and district magistrate in some districts of Gujarat and later rose to be a federal secretary. The book is a compendium of his memoirs and experiences during service. Titled, Of Nawabs And Nightingales, it is so absorbing that I went through its 200 pages in one sitting probably because I had never read better English by an Indian bureaucrat.
The author starts with his first posting in Surat in West India. See how he describes the place:
“It was a sleepy old town, not even struggling to come out of its colonial past. Visitors to the city were still shown the museum the Hope Bridge and the English factory as the most important tourist spots. The more inquisitive of them were taken to the English cemetery whose gravestones dating back to the sixteenth or seventeenth century stood as lonely monuments to the glory of the East India Company and the British Empire...”
Further on he writes: “One of these monuments of the British Empire that had survived the trauma of Independence was the Surat Gymkhana... It had a galvanized tin roof and a false ceiling made of teak. The card room was panelled at places, with cartoon prints from the Punch and The Tatler, on the walls... There must have been a bar but it had become a victim of the prohibition law. With the onset of twilight, the club’s gloomy interior was lit by low wattage bulbs hung by long wires from the high ceiling. The old pre-World War vintage fans moved with whines and groans, stirring the tepid air reluctantly. A few bridge and rummy tables with men assembled on the former and ladies at the latter... For a young civilian and a bachelor to boot, the Gymkhana was the only place to be in once the sun had set. Considering that the alternative was the museum or the cemetery, the Gymkhana had its compensations.”
The book is so interesting that I would like to quote passage after passage from it. However, I’ll just narrate an incident from the book to show the problems faced by a Muslim district officer serving in India.
In 1969, soon after the bloody communal riots in Ahmedabad, Moosa Raza was informed that tension between Hindus and Muslims was building up in a town in his jurisdiction as someone had broken the head of the Hanuman idol and thrown it on a nearby rubble heap. Naturally, the local Muslims were suspected. Although short of police force, he went to the town where mobs had collected with lighted torches to burn down houses belonging to the Muslims. He addressed them through a mike and promised that he would stay in the town till the person responsible for the dastardly act was caught and punished.
Initially, the mob raised slogans against him for being a Muslim but later accepted his appeal and dispersed. Soon more policemen arrived in the town and after inquiries it was found that the culprit was a young Hindu who had fallen in love with a high caste girl and sought the help of Hanumanji to secure her hand. He confessed that the idol had promised him in his dream that he would help him marry her. When the girl was married to someone else he felt that he had been fouled by Hanumanji. He, therefore, went to the temple when there was no one around and smashed the head of the idol.
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MUSTANSAR Husain Tarar has written three excellent novels in Urdu, one even fetching him a lucrative award, besides several newspaper columns and a long play, but somehow he is dubbed a travelogue writer, though it is not the readers’ fault. After all, what can they do and think about him when he dishes out a travelogue every second day? I don’t think it was too long ago when he produced Nepal Nagri, followed by Shamshal Be-misal and has now come up with Chitral Dastaan. (There may have been another one in between which I missed). But permit me to say in loud and clear terms that Chitral Dastaan has disappointed me. I’ll tell you why.
My misfortune is that I have read most of Mustansar’s earlier travelogues. Now I can easily forget those about his wanderings in the west as he has been blamed for incorporating libidinous matter in them. Since far from any such diversions, I care little for what he wrote at the time. My appreciation of his writings has been confined to what he has written about his wanderings in the Northern Areas where he could only make love to glaciers and the like. There is a sting of adventure in those stories which is lacking in Chitral Dastaan.
I still appreciate the smooth flow in his narrative, the exquisite description of scenic beauty in an inimitable style but what I want to read about is his hanging by a rope bridge with a gushing river below rising to wet his jeans, his jumping over deep and wide crevices his honeymoon with the glaciers, and his search every morning for a ‘potty palace.’ Now if you find a commode at every resting place during your trip to Gilgit, Chitral and Kafiristan how is it different from a family picnic to Jallo Park or, a little further up, to Chhange Manga? Going during a military regime in the country to the Northern Areas as a guest of a top military officer amounts to making fun of all that Mustansar has indulged in earlier. He is basically a vagabond, as he has himself admitted more than once, and I want to remember him as one. I hate to see him as a caring husband and an over-concerned loving father as he appears in Chitral Dastaan. He is probably getting old.
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I HAVE to make another clarification. Last week, while commenting on the contents of Payam Shahjahanpuri’s weekly Taqazay, I wrote that Azhar Javed was missing. The fact is that he was right there but I missed him because his writeup was not at its usual place. Since the editor considered his column to be of utmost importance as it pertained to the possibility of a war between India and Pakistan, he placed it under Aaina-i-Watan, a column he normally writes himself.

