Exports play a vital role in a country’s economic development and well-being, and the recently held 7th Expo Pakistan is touted as the biggest annual trade fair organised by the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP). Besides showcasing all things Pakistani, it also hosted a two-day fashion segment featuring collections by fashion designers that incorporated art, sculpture, music and dance.
Faiza Samee, Amin Gulgee, Sonya Battla, Adnan Pardesy, Samar Mehdi, Nida Khurram, Kuki Concepts, Monica Paracha, PIFD, Rung Ja, Pareesa by Chen One, Maxco and Nova Leathers were those who participated in the fashion show choreographed by Rizwan Beyg with hair and make-up for female models by Angie Marshall.
The opening sequence hosted Amin Gulgee’s pieces narrating the story of the river, the female and her giving birth to civilisation. “The leaf which serves as protection; the egg as a symbol of fertility; the mirror, like the river flowing through the desert reflecting the sun, reflects light which in turn life…” Amin Gulgee recreated the metallic bustiers to showcase the power of the one wearing it. Besides this, his art pieces, especially the one worn by model Iraj, won praise hands down.
Next to show was Maxco, a joint venture between Italian businessman Pedio Massimo and Zubair Gilani. The high-end fashion apparel with accessories was just the thing to attract foreign buyers to the event.
Adnan Pardesy’s 18-piece capsule collection in bright colours was designed for the working woman was both upbeat and practical for daily wear. It followed the design ethos of being simple, subtle and sensible with stand-alone tunics and fabrics such as linen, merino and denim. The designer used his trademark pleating, finishing and treatment here besides showing slim-fit denim churidars and printed silk scarves. The affordable collection will be in stores in November.
Nova Leathers showed Natural Exclusivity boasting feisty colours and intricacy of form. Leather may just be the next big thing in making a fashion statement this season, either in the form of a sultry black dress or something even more vibrant and flirtatious — such as a bright, textured handbag. The showing was both bold and innovative by any standards.
Samar Mehdi’s pret line for 2012, Now, was an extension of the love affair between the classic and the innovative. The designer displayed insight par excellence in encapsulating the best of what ready-to-wear has to offer. Her sash-like white dress with an illusion hemline spoke volumes of her design sensibilities.
The Mystic’s Journey is the story of seeking truth through self-discovery and was what Sonya Battla chose to portray. The segment started with rich gold and silver fabrics depicting worldly opulence. The mystic was then shown to continue his voyage by exploration through a gentle deconstruction of the outfits. He achieves a state of peace, having found truth, illustrated by the use of hand-spun raw silk. This collection and all it entails was dramatised in dance by dancers Breakhna and Zarmeena.
The next day, Faiza Samee’s passion for colour and ancient embroidery came alive with her trademark richly-coloured block prints, re-routing her approach to pret. Pure silks and chiffons in flowing silhouettes, wide trousers, tops, kaftans and capes were a testament of how traditional crafts can be translated into contemporary design.
Zahid Khan of Kuki Concepts showed the colourful Flamboyance that was inspired by rich craftsmanship such as rilli, coin work and thread embroidery. Featuring 12 menswear and three women’s wear pieces, the collection included jackets and capes as well.
Nida Khurram’s Minimalism had dark to light and earthy to warm tones of wraps, draped pieces in cotton, linen and silk in chic and edgy silhouettes with attention to detail and trims stemming from the modern urban woman’s desire to maintain aesthetics and exclusivity.
Hand embroideries and embellishments in gold, silver and silk threads with semi-precious stones defined Monica Couture. The label’s strategy is to incorporate them in popular, mid-range collections. Patterns and motifs from Ottoman and Mughal periods in latest trends and cuts that cater to international buyers seemed to be in the full focus of the designer here. Model Ayyan wearing a dragon symbol over one shoulder in a flowy red number with a black hemline deserves special mention here.
The Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD) collection zeroed in on creativity and innovation through pattern, draping and stitching. Ranging from the diverse spectrum of ethnic to chic, and from traditional to prêt, the work of the 2012 graduating batch included aspiring designers Waqar ud Din (Typhoon’s Apocalyptic Army), Schehrzade Sohail Muzamil (Neo Nomads), Maryam Hassan (Dancing for Dowries: Ouled Nail Tribe), Faiza Rafique (Marvi), Faizan Ahmed (Bionic Kells) and Hamza Asghar Bokhari (Snowy Owls — Native Americans).
Next up, Rang Ja was bold, vibrant and funky enough to light up any dull wardrobe with ethnic cuts and colours. It offered variations in shape, size, design, hue and contrast and geometric patterns underlined by a dance performance by Breakhna, Zarmeena and others.
The final showing, Chen One’s Pareesa Lawn can be described as ‘hippie chic’. Encapturing the breeziness of fresh spring with its tantalising prints, fabric and colour palette on voluminous silhouettes (asymmetric and handkerchief hemlines, cowl and halter necklines), Sahar Atif created the impressive collection for the runway.