Hilda Saeed talks to different NGOs working to save and develop our cultural handicraft heritage
In the current atmosphere of ‘nothing’s right, everything’s wrong’ that overwhelms Pakistanis, came a little exhibition, bright, colourful, cheerful and crowded. Superb handcrafted items, some virtual heirlooms. There was something to suit every pocket, from handmade coasters to trendy embroidered handbags to rilli designed quilts. The kameezes would have done a fashion designer proud — chic designs and cuts, with traditional designs in the latest popular shades.
That the exhibition was held in one of Karachi’s centrally located upmarket areas certainly helped. Designer Shaiyanne Malik generously donated space at her boutique for the two-day exhibition, because, said she, “I feel that NGO workers are all so sincere, so committed, and our crafts so rich — I want to help them forward. I’ve travelled all over, and I do feel that our artisans are among the world’s most talented.” As someone who markets her own designs, Shaiyanne sees much promise in artisans’ skills. Though present efforts are still in their infancy, she is convinced they can be expanded. “I definitely feel that this country has given us so much, now is the time for us to give back, and contribute whatever we can”.
“Many of us are working with artisans; several NGOs joined hands to make this exhibition a reality”, said Najia Siddiqui of ADORN, who organised the event: Thardeep, DIL (Development in Literacy), IRC (Indus Resource Centre), AHAN and APWA’s Rana Liaquat Ali Centre. The outcome was a wonderful variety of items. Thardeep’s and DIL’s embroidered or rilli worked kameezes clearly sold like hot cakes, as did ajraks produced by AHAN and IRC.
AHAN (Aik Hunar, Aik Nagar), a government sponsored not-for-profit initiative, brought together artisans and designers, maximising the efforts of both. “This exhibition was a rare opportunity, and gave all of us valuable exposure. I wish it could have lasted longer’, said Shakeel Abro of AHAN.
Najia is enthusiastic, though initially she was hesitant about the success of her venture. She is now planning a second exhibition. Her innovative marketing strategy, informing people worldwide via facebook and internet about NGO products, has also drawn world-wide interest in Pakistani products.
APWA’s RLCC (Rana Liaquat Ali Centre) established at the inception of Pakistan, also utilises modern marketing initiatives. RLCC has worked for years with women from low socio-economic groups, teaching them new skills, helping them obtain livelihood. A very successful centre, producing several items from paper bags to crocheted and embroidered goods has emerged. Selwa Habib, one of the volunteers at the RLCC, says their effort is always to ensure quality, at reasonable prices.
Maintaining production schedules and ensuring quality control are among the biggest challenges, as shared by Najia and Madiha Kazi of Thardeep. Madiha is a graduate in designing, aware of the enormous talent of rural women. It is only a matter of adapting their embroideries, their rillies and their ideas to modern urban requirements. “That’s not always easy”, laughs Madiha. “Sometimes they can’t believe women wear such long kameezes, sometimes they think the colours I recommend are much too pale to be used; and of course, we have to watch all the time for quality control, use pre-shrunk, colour-fast materials and so on”.
Sadequa Salahuddin of IRC was pleasantly surprised; the exhibition gave excellent exposure to IRC and its products, enabled networking among participating NGOs, and proved profitable to boot.
Few NGOs can afford their own sales outlets. Najia’s own interest is in household items and furnishings, including for children, where she feels there is a real dearth. “I’m keen to revive our crafts, and make them available to urbanites. Our rural people have such rich indigenous skills, and we’re losing them. Other countries have larger markets — here we’re at risk of limited market access plus loss of skills. Even if NGOs do wish to expand their efforts, there are several drawbacks for international marketing; the main one is the WFTO (World Fair Trade Organisation), the requirements of which are most stringent and expensive for international trade; they become unaffordable for the average NGO”.
“For us, what will work best is to create a wide set of linkages, a network that can reach out to people; that way, NGOs will have a joint platform to work from; they can develop a value chain to ensure that artisans get more work, and use modern marketing strategies.”
“Our artisans need consistent encouragement; years ago, there had been some effort, but this faded out. The quantum of work is still small, but the potential is high. For some time now, we have been doing design interventions, to ensure product popularity for urban markets. We’ve established our first store in Lahore, and soon plan to open another in Karachi”, said Shakeel Abro.
“But if we are to save our rich craft heritage, we must constantly promote artisans and related NGOs, with subsidies too if necessary. At present, they do not make enough profits to even participate fully in Expo Pakistan shows, or other local events. Consequently, our crafts export market remains limited, whereas India is now earning about a billion dollars through its crafts; their main markets are China and South Africa”.
These are initiatives that can, and must, be taken further, not only to enhance livelihood opportunities for skilled artisans, but also to ensure that Pakistan does not lose its rich craft heritage.