RAWALPINDI, Nov 16: French cuisine is the most famous and sought-after in Europe, but here in the sub-continent it is the Kashmiri dishes which top the popularity charts with their age- old recipe secrets.

In Potohar region, comprising Rawalpindi and Islamabad, Dilbar Hotel, located in a 110-year-old building in the Old Qila area, has gained reputation among politicians and bureaucrats for being an exclusive eatery of Kashmiri cuisine for the last 54 years.

A number of politicians including deposed prime minister Mian Nawaz Sharif, MQM leader Altaf Hussain and Nawab Bugti have been great admirers of Kashmiri dishes.

The hotel was set up in Rawalpindi in 1947-48 by a Kashmiri, Malik Jamal, who had shifted here from Baramula area in Kapwara district of Kashmir. Ghulam Mohammad Lala, the first chef, was well famous for his culinary skill and expertise in Kashmiri cuisine. After he left for Muzaffarabad, Munshi Mohammad Aslam, a Kashmiri refugee, took charge as the new cook.

Coming of a family that specializes in cooking Kashmiri dishes, he as been working at the hotel for the last 30 years. During this time he turned down many lucrative offers including the one given by Dr. Qadeer Khan. During the tenure of Nawaz Sharif, his services were often sought by the prime minister house, and the owners of the hotel used to oblige.

The hotel menu offers above 10 Kashmiri dishes, that are available on fixed days. These include, Gushtaba, Ristay, Tabaq Mazh, Maithi Mazh, Kashmiri Kebabs, Shabdeg, Karam Fish, Karam Gosht (mutton ), Aab Gosht, Saag Gosht, Karam Mutton and Razma Daal with Lobia.

Gushtaba, prepared with mutton, beef or chicken, is the pick of all these dishes. In its preparation, firstly meat is tenderized with a wooden hammer for about two or three hours till it is reduced to pulp. Afterwards, the pulp is shaped into balls, that are put into a cauldron with layers of kneaded flour and turnips, respectively. Yoghurt and spices are used in the cooking process.

Later, the cauldron is covered with a lid and sealed with kneaded flour. Cooking is done on low flame for three hours. Rice or Roti is used with Gushtaba. It is available at the hotel on Saturdays, but one can have it prepared on order at any time.

Aab Gosht is prepared with milk and spices, that do not include pepper. Milk is poured during the cooking process, giving an exceptional flavour to the dish.

Harisa is another mouth-watering Kashmiri dish. Meat is grinded for several hours until the fibres are visible. Yoghurt, spices and pulses are again special ingredients. The dish is not readily available at the hotel for being very costly. It is only prepared after an order is placed.

A wide variety of Saag called, Karam is also available at the eatery. It is prepared through different methods, that also include use of fish, mutton or beef, giving it an irresistible flavour. Similarly, Kashmiri Kebabs are entirely different from Afghani or Peshawari Kebabs due to their distinct flavour.

Ramza, another dish, is prepared by Lobia, and is much appreciated by the customers.

Kashmiri dishes are devoid of deserts, except for Kheer. To go with the food, Kashmri Kawhwa is a must.