Two starkly contrasting images: (1) a magnificent stone-built hotel in a condition that must be revisited, reviewed, and, if possible, reconsidered for restoration (2) a park, a block away from the hotel, stinky, with sparse patches of grass, a preferred ground for junkies, deranged middle-aged men, unemployed youth and attention-seeking 60+ oldies. Yet, they have something in common: they were constructed at a time when public service facilities were treated with due respect. This is one of the most happening spots right in the middle of Karachi. If you are at Regal Chowk, the hotel and park are a few yards ahead. If you are at Empress Market, they're right behind you. If you've entered the Saddar region from where Bambino cinema offers the latest Pakistani films, they're on your left. You can afford to ignore them, only at your own peril. Reason: well, once you cast your eyes on these two facilities there's a fair chance you will turn into a history-lover of sorts.
Khyber Hotel is one of the most out-of-the-ordinary buildings on Preedy Street. Unexpectedly, and despite the kind of pollution-infested atmosphere that envelops the whole area, its façade is still worthy of being appreciated. It's unclear whether at some point in time, in recent past, it was refurbished or sandblasted. What's clear is that the hotel has a lovely appearance. Yes, as is the case with a vast majority, if not all, of the old colonial structures, tampering with windows and decorative elements have altered the building's first-look a wee bit. Still, it's a crackerjack.
The balustrades lining the rooftop are okay. It's hard to ascertain whether they were put there by the masons or subsequently added by someone realising the architectural composition of the hotel. The windows have two variables. On the top floor, they have semicircular and rectilinear railings or metal grilles, if you like. On the first floor the size of the 'magic casements' becomes smaller with the broken parts compensated with paper stuffing. Here, unusual scenes aren't unusual. For example, a pair of jeans could be seen hanging off a nail stuck on top, arched part, of the window. The pilasters and some other tiny pieces of embellishments are unharmed. The hotel's view from the back gate to St Andrew's Church, provided there's no haze and the myriads of shops on its ground storey are closed, can take your breath away.
The entrance to the building is off-putting. The stairs to the floors are clutched between stationary stores, dental clinics, wristwatch repair shops etc. Hold on. Once you reach the first floor, where there's a sofa where the manager ensconces himself in, you'll transmute into a character from a black & white '50s Indian film. To your left and right there are rooms, with wooden doors on which numbers are written. The dining room is not very spacious, never mind. And be careful of setting foot on the balcony: it can be a dizzying experience.
At the rear end of the building, there's a mosque. Next to the place of worship, no one can miss a large piece of land. It's called Jehangir Park. Unfortunately, there's nothing park-like about this space, except there are palm trees and a couple of other plants at a fair distance from each other. The sandy, puffy soil outsizes the green portion(s), and garbage dumps add unsightliness to the surroundings. Ironically the square is hardly ever unoccupied. There are men, old and young, even minors, that find this place attractive to laze or lounge around in. It's a weird sight. Most of them don't talk to each other, but sit wherever they feel like, either staring at the sky or looking at some vague object purposelessly. Unsavory activities have also been reported from this park. At one end, there's a pentagonal pavilion kind of a construction, not used or underused these days. It's the only thing that gives away the age of Jehangir Park. Otherwise, it's as shabby, dirty and unkempt as most open spaces in Karachi are.
Architect Arif Hasan says, “This hotel used to be Allah Ki Rahmat Ka Bismillah Hotel. I think it was built in the 1880s or a little later. It's indicative of port architecture with Mediterranean classical features. There's quite a bit of detailing in it. It was a pretty middleclass facility, good food and the building had lots of timber.
“Jehangir Park was famous for its political rallies. In fact Liaquat Ali Khan showed his famous mukka (fist) at this very place. It was named after Jehangir Kothari. It even used to host the majalis in Muharram. The pavilion that you mention was always there. And right behind Edulji Dinishaw Dispensary there was a bar and billiards room. It's now replaced by a book shop. The park was used by the residents of the area, the mohalley walley. Today there are no muhalley wallahs.
“Preedy Street was part of the city plan in 1868-69. Colonel Preedy occupied Karachi and annexed it in 1843,” says Arif Hasan.
Three men have entered Jehangir Park. They've stepped in a line and appear to know one another. They've placed themselves under the shade of the tree towering over the pavilion. They're together, but all of them are looking in different directions.
mohammad.salman@dawn.com