THE book under review is written by Prof Dr Habibullah Mirza, a scholar who taught at Sindh University. Born and bred in Hyderabad, he has compiled his observations of the city in the book titled Hyderabad Jo Agyoon Auj.
The city of Hyderabad, as told by the author, was known as Neroon Kot before being chosen and built by Mian Ghulam Shah, a famous ruler of the Kalhora dynasty, as his capital in 1768. While narrating the chronicle of the city, the author has referred to Bayaz ul Hashimi (Vol 2) written by 18th century’s renowned scholar, Makhdoom Muhammad Hashim Thatvi.
The writer’s great grandfather Mirza Aziz Beg Chughtai settled in Hyderabad during the reign of Mian Ghulam Shah and the book describes Mian Ghulam’s fondness for architecture. When he decided to shift the capital, he not only planned the city and its renowned main market, Shahi Bazaar, but also offered land to the people to settle, free of cost. The city of Hyderabad during the period of Ghulam Shah became one of the most flourishing urban centres of Sindh.
The Kalhora ruler also restored the old fort of Neroon Kot with strong fortifications in a short period of three months and planned the city around it in such a fashion that each and every class of professionals were allowed separate quarters. Even today, on both sides of the Shahi Bazaar, despite the mass exodus of Hindus after independence, these mohallas are still identified by the professions.
After the fall of the Kalhoras, the Talpurs took over Sindh, retaining Hyderabad as the capital. However, the city shot to eminence soon after the British conquered Sindh in 1843.
Though the majority population was Muslim, the 25 per cent Hindus were mostly engaged in trading and commercial activities and also held government jobs. Muslims were mostly landowners and occupied in agricultural activities. Hindus were very enterprising, having businesses as far as Moscow, Spain and even Japan. They were known as Bhai Bands as they were the ones who brought not only prosperity to the city, but with it also introduced foreign architecture. The Hira-abad and Amil Colony are famous for this very reason.
During the British reign Hyderabad was the epitome of peace and progress. Gardens and parks such as Das Garden, Trivit Garden, Mukhi Garden, Rani Bagh, Giddu Bandar Park and Shamdas promenade on both sides of the Phulleli canal were the most popular places of excursion. Another exceptional feature for which the city was popular was the wind catchers every house was endowed with. Because of its close proximity to the Arabian Sea and the Thar desert, Hyderabad has not only high velocity winds but the evening air becomes so cool that even during the summer, the nights are extremely pleasant.According to the author, before partition Hindu-Muslim unity was proverbial and Hyderabad was considered the most peaceful city in the subcontinent. According to him whatever recrimination that came about was because of Hindus who had come from UP and Bihar, mostly members of Hindu extremist organisations. The author seems to cherish his friendship with his Hindu classmates and friends who later on migrated in 1947.
The book sheds light on the customs and traditions of the city and discusses the roads, worship places, courts, musafirkhanas and in particular the attire and cuisine. We can also see how people celebrated religious occasions.He has specifically detailed the influx of immigrants from India at partition and how the people of Hyderabad reached the railway station to welcome their brethren and provided them with food, shelter and medicines. The author at the same time displays sorrow on the parting of his Hindu friends and companions with whom he had a wonderful past.
Hyderabad was once known as the jewel of the subcontinent and today is one of the largest cities in the country with a population of 1.6 million. The grandeur of the past however is now buried underneath unplanned growth of the city and lack of civic amenities. Except for a few gardens, the remaining recreational places have been occupied by the building mafia.The book reminds us of the once-magnificent Hyderabad. Comprising 344 pages, there are a few rare photographs of the city’s important places. The comprehensive detail as given by the author is befitting of a person who truly belongs to the city.For those, especially the Hindu diaspora, who do not have the opportunity to visit their place of origin after partition, this volume will be a nostalgic piece of writing. Hyderabad Jo Agyoon Auj(HISTORY)By Dr Habibullah MirzaRoshni Publications, Kandiaro344pp. Rs250