You can't compare the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel to that of Frere Hall. But what that genius Sadequain was trying to achieve, even in its supposedly incomplete form, was nothing like Michelangelo's phenomenal work. The image of a universe that's a mélange of contradictions and conformities, with elements such as noor (light) and zulmat (darkness) juxtaposed, Sadequain's work in a certain way is descriptive of the magnificent venue where he doodled, squiggled and sketched. Simply put Frere Hall is a building that can turn the most uncreative person into an artist.
These days not much activity can be witnessed on Frere Hall premises. If you arrive there early in the morning, there's a good chance that you'll see its The commemorative plaque semi-verdant lawn being mowed or watered with sprinklers. A flock of pigeons also makes its presence felt. It's a pity that these days more birds enjoy this awesome facility than human beings. This can be gauged from the fact the Frere Hall Library that houses countless rare books is visited by not more than 10 persons a day. Not even a brief history of the library that's written on a board at its entrance inspires many to come here. This makes you go back in time when this very place used to hold a remarkable book fair on a weekly basis. And then things changed in the blink of an eye. Bomb blasts, security scares, and an uncertain law and order situation (add to it antipathy to books) practically shut down Frere Hall for healthy activities, not to mention the building's breathtaking architecture, that were so inalienably associated with it.
Though not portraying a clean-as-a-whistle image, what an extraordinary building it is. Before reaching Gallerie Sadequain (that astounding hall) just when you finish climbing the first flight of the reasonably maintained wooden stairs, there's a rather elaborate commemorative plaque that helps you get acquainted with the history of this top-notch work of stonemasonry. The Frere Hall Erected By the People of Sind As A Memorial of their Esteem and Gratitude to His Excellency the Honourable Sir Henry Bartle Edward Frere Governor of Bombay and Formerly Commissioner in Sind For His Able and Successful Administration of the Affairs of This Province During a Lengthened Rule of Nearly Nine Years. Building Commenced August 1863, Opened for the Public on the 10th Day of October 1865. And when you get to the fist storey, try and have a look at a framed portion of the wall on your left on which the master artist has written with charcoal, God 'O poor Sadequain' transform thy nights and days of life in creative work. You feel like picking up a paintbrush.
Frere Hall was Karachi's first neo-Gothic structure built for civic purposes - lectures, concerts, stage productions, you name it. It was constructed to honour the services of the endearing Bartle Frere, who was instrumental in transforming Sindh from an old province to a modern-looking one. Some accounts suggest that he served as Commissioner in Sindh from 1851 to 1859. In 1862, Mr Frere became the governor of Bombay. To design the building no fewer than 12 architects presented their work, of which civil architect Henry Clair Wilkins' was approved. The design, influenced by Venetian Gothic style, had its fair share of detractors and lovers, with the latter prevailing upon the former.
Made with buff, dark grey and red stones the hall's imposing octagonal tower and spirelet, impressive columns and voussoirs of pointed arches, and the pitched roof with a steep slope impart an almost anachronistic look to it that's unlike any of Karachi's aged edifices. The question is if there are activities few and far between, who takes care of the building's preservation?
Nazir Malik, additional district officer, says There's an engineering department that usually looks after matters of upkeep and maintenance. The place gets cleaned up on a daily basis, but we don't have our own staff, hence no budget. You can look up at the ceiling in my office and that of calligraphy hall's top. When the rains come down, water seeps through and damages the walls. For security reasons, hardly any activity takes place here, save for the Sadequain Award that happens annually, and for which we put up works of artists in the gallery, says Nazir Malik.
Architect Noman Ahmed says Frere Hall is British imperial rule's first public building. Made with buff colour Gizri limestone, its pitched roof is like those of English buildings, which is not suited to Karachi weather; but what happened after its construction was that it set a trend for later Karachi buildings. Afterwards other additions were made keeping local climatic conditions in mind. The building's arcaded verandah also emphasises the climatic sensitivities. It'd be interesting to mention that the Parsi community did a lot in its upkeep in the 1890s. For example, Eduljee Dinshaw put a fountain here, which attracted attention.
As far as its current state is concerned, no great decay has so far been witnessed. However, if it's not utilised the way it used to in the past, its systems will start deteriorating. Efforts must be made to use it like the old times. There has to be some kind of public activity in or around the building so that people could visit it more often, says Mr Ahmed.
Imagine for a moment how Sadequain would have felt if he were alive about security concerns and the menace of extremism. He may have painted more of zulmat than noor. Just a guess.
mohammad.salman@dawn.com