Nestled between military headquarters, barracks and a training school, Lal Kurti — once known as British Infantry Bazaar —reflects the British influence on Rawalpindi’s cityscape.

Established in the mid to late 1800s and located a few metres from the General Headquarters, the more than century-old locality still reminds one of the British colonial era despite its rapidly evolving landscape.

Though the area was renamed Tariqabad during former president Ziaul Haq’s era, the locality is still officially known as Lal Kurti.

Lal Kurti (literally red shirts) refers to the British Indian Army uniform. During the British rule in the Indian subcontinent, this was the main bazaar near the Northern Command Headquarters.

Soldiers, mostly wearing red shirts, came here for their weekly shopping, giving it the name Lal Kurti Bazaar.

Old-timers say that during the British era, soldiers received their salaries every Friday.

Most of those living with their families spent the weekend shopping in the bazaar, while the rest spent leisure time here.

Adjacent to it was another market known as Royal Artillery Bazaar, which is still known as RA Bazaar. But Lal Kurti remained the more popular one.

Before the partition of the Indian subcontinent, the locality attracted wealthy Hindu, Sikh, and Muslim families who were mostly involved in trade.

After partition, most houses were allocated to migrating families from East Punjab, Delhi, and other parts of India.

The locality is surrounded by three churches, including St Joseph’s Cathedral, Christ Church and St Paul’s Church.

Before Pakistan’s creation, there were two Hindu temples in the area, but now only one remains. It belongs to low-caste Hindus and is called the Balmiki Temple. More than 60 Hindus reside in the area.

Another prominent institution in Rawalpindi, Presentation Convent, was opened here in 1895. Former prime minister Benazir Bhutto studied here for a few years.

Interestingly, at the corner of the main bazaar adjacent to the CSD shopping complex, there is a building once called Ayub Hall, which holds significance in Pakistan’s parliamentary history. The first session of the third National Assembly of Pakistan was held in 1962 at Ayub Hall, Lal Kurti, because Rawalpindi served as the interim capital before the shift from Karachi to Islamabad.

Now, the building houses the National University of Sciences and Technology (NUST).

Walking through the streets of the locality, one can find old buildings that reflect the past. Wooden balconies, spacious houses and facades of havelis are still visible.

There is an old building called Zulf-e-Bengal Building, which was owned by wealthy Hindu and Muslim landowners. It is one of Lal Kurti’s most well-known landmarks, representing a unique blend of Anglo-Indian architecture.

The area holds a commercial legacy and a post-Partition history.

The story of Lal Kurti is considered incomplete without mentioning the Eidgah on the main road. Though constructed after Partition, it remains one of the prominent Eidgahs of Rawalpindi.

“The Zulf-e-Bengal was owned by a Hindu trader involved in the hair oil business. After 1947, the building was renamed Agha House and is now owned by a Muslim family,” said Abdur Rehman, an old trader in the area.

He said many buildings have been preserved as they were before Partition, though most have been renovated due to the area’s evolving needs.

He noted that commercial activity in the bazaar is still bustling, much like the British era, as scores of servicemen’s families reside in the area or come here for their shopping.

Muhammad Irfan, a pan shop owner, said that his great-grandfather established the pan shop during the British era, and it is now run by his third generation. He said Christians, Hindus and Muslims still reside in the area peacefully.

“There are also some Sikh traders in the area who have been doing business here for many decades. No riots ever erupted in the area,” he said.

Former district nazim Raja Tariq Kiani said that Lal Kurti is one of the oldest areas of Rawalpindi Cantonment.

“We saw British Indian Army soldiers roaming here and there in the bazaars. Now it’s a business centre where one can find good traditional food outlets. Most people who settled here arrived from Amritsar, Delhi and other parts and brought their cuisines, which gained popularity among Pindiites,” he said.

Published in Dawn, May 12th, 2025