RAWALPINDI: For most families, breakfast on Sundays has to be something out of the ordinary. The reason: it is one day in the week when no one is in a hurry.

It is time for a family get-together, and to make the occasion special, a specialty needs to be served.

This is where Nihari comes in. A spicy gravy thick with chunks of stewed beef, seasoned with fried green chillies, onion, coriander, raw ginger and lemon juice, the delicacy pulls many out of their beds before Fajr.

People ready to wake up early even on Sunday to buy Nihari

Most shops famous for Nihari like Majeed Nihari in Sabzi Mandi, Pehalwan Nihari in Kashmiri Bazaar, Muhammadi Nihari in Commercial Market, Kala Nihari in Kartarpura and Khurram Nihari at Khayaban-i-Sir-Syed only sell this royal treat from 6am to 8am every morning. These shops usually find themselves sold-out within two hours, and some have to cook it again for dinner.

Nihari is said to have originated in Old Delhi and was consumed by Mughal rulers to cure cold. Later the Muslim rulers would eat Nihari for breakfast and take long naps till noon prayers. Eventually the dish became popular among other classes as a regular breakfast item.

Most Nihari shops in Rawalpindi prefer beef but some use chicken and mutton. Some customers eat Nihari with soft, oily kulchas while others have crispy Roti or plain nan.

“People come to our shop because our ingredients are always fresh. We cook meat at low heat. We start preparing it in the night and by morning it is ready,” said Sajid Majeed, the chef at Majeed Nihari in Sabzi Mandi.

He said Fridays and Sundays are busy days for them and to meet the demand they prepare two cauldrons of Nihari which is sold out by 8am.

“I don’t buy Nihari every Sunday but when I do my choice is Majeed Nihari,” said Hassan Ali, a resident of Westridge. He said his family craved for Nihari the most during rainy days.

“I come to buy Nihari for my family every Sunday. I wake up early because if I am late it will be sold out. It’s also good for your health,” said Abdul Hameed, a customer at Sabzi Mandi.

Nazir Mughal of Kala Nihari told Dawn that it has been 67 years since he started making Nihari in Kartarpura. He said his family migrated from Amritsar and started selling Nihari in Rawalpindi.

He said his recipe was special and had been passed down in his family for generations. “Ten years ago people only had Nihari in winter but now its sold all year round,” he added.

The shop sells beef and chicken Nihari made for both breakfast and dinner times. More than 1500 plates of Nihari are sold at the Kala Nihari each day.

Mohammad Fahad, a resident of Satellite Town, said, for him, Muhammadi Nihari at Commercial Market is the place for his favourite dish.

“I like their taste, but above all its cleaner compared to other eateries,” Fahad said.

“My father used to bring Nihari home but then we started having Nihari at the shop right out of the stove with a fresh naan,” he said.

Published in Dawn, October 6th, 2014