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How Muslims and Lahore got Sunehri Mosque back from the Sikhs

How Muslims and Lahore got Sunehri Mosque back from the Sikhs

"Maharajah had decided it was the religious duty of Sikhs in the area to get up early morning to awaken all Muslims for prayers."
14 Dec, 2020

Few historic monuments in the Walled City have as colourful a history as the one at the corner of the junction where Kasaira Bazaar meets Kucha Chabakswaran, just off Kashmiri Bazaar. It is a beautiful mosque built at a slight height.

Now this mosque has curiously-shaped bulbous domes coated with real gold leaf and its architecture is a mix of local traditions. As it has no definite architectural style to label it, the experts, some very reputable ones, do not approve of it. Others find it exciting and a reflection of Lahore’s open and liberal tradition. Like Amritsar’s Golden Temple, this mosque is Lahore’s Golden Mosque, better known as ‘Sunehri Masjid’.

The stories associated with this historic mosque are worth narrating. Built in the era of Mughal decline in 1753, almost half a century after Emperor Aurangzeb died, and 12 years before the Sikh rule commenced, its construction was opposed by both local traders and by the ‘mullahs’ of the area.

The traders opposed it because it would allegedly harm their profits by congesting the already congested bazaar. The ‘mullahs’ opposed it because traders threatened to cut off their funding if they supported the project. In the end, an interesting solution was arrived at.

The builder of the mosque was Nawab Bukhari Khan, the then deputy governor of Lahore in the reign of Mir Munoo, the Arain strongman of Lahore. Nawab Bukhari met the traders first and promised that they would not be asked to pay donations for the mosque. It would have shops on the ground floor, whose rent would pay for the maintenance of the mosque.

As the plot of land was a small vacant one, the mosque did not hinder the work of the traders. If anything, it added to their demand level. He then asked the traders, who were now satisfied with the solution, to convince the ‘mullahs’ to issue a ‘fatwa,’ stating that the building of a mosque was an Islamic act and much needed by the traders. In return, they promised to continue financing the ‘mullahs’.

So it was in 1753 that the beautiful mosque was completed. Soon afterwards, the Sikh triumvirate of Gujjar Singh, Sobha Singh and Lehna Singh of the Bhangi Misl conquered Lahore on April 12, 1765 and the Sikh era started. The city was conquered with assistance of the Arain traders of Lahore. Amazingly, it was these very traders who also, much later in 1799, assisted Ranjit Singh wrest the city from these very three rulers. The arrival of the Sikhs, at least, led to an era of peace and an end to the Afghan pillage.

Maharajah Ranjit Singh took over Lahore in 1799 and it took him a decade to completely consolidate and expand his empire. After a few years, once the new ruler had grown strong, a Sikh priest led a group of soldiers and Sikh residents of the area and took over the mosque. They complained to the maharajah that ‘Azan,’ the call for prayer, was making life miserable for the Sikh and Hindu residents in the neighbourhood and they just wanted to end the noise.

Initially, the maharajah allowed them to control the mosque, provided it was turned into a ‘gurdwara’. So a copy of the Guru Granth Sahib was placed in the middle of the mosque and for all practical purposes, it became a ‘gurdwara’. It even had a new name and that was ‘Chota Sunehri Gurdwara’.

For a few years, this continued and then a delegation of Muslim leaders approached the powerful Fakir family of Bazaar Hakeeman and discussed the issue with Fakir Azizuddin and Fakir Nooruddin. In 1826, the brothers approached Maharajah Ranjit Singh to get the mosque restored. As the Fakir brothers were very influential in the Lahore court, the crafty wise ruler asked for some time before he could think of a strategy to dislocate the powerful Sikh panths. His solution was an amazing one.

All the Sikh residents and priests were one day abruptly summoned to the Lahore Fort and informed that the maharajah had decided that as he would serve all the communities equally and it was the religious duty of all the Sikhs in the area to get up early in the morning to awaken all the Muslims for prayers. So five times a day, they were given strict orders and refusal to comply meant severe punishment.

Within a fortnight, the same Sikhs went back to the ruler and told him that they just could not carry out this duty as they could not sleep due to it. So the mosque was returned to the Muslims but on two conditions. Firstly, they were to call the ‘Azan’ at a very low volume. Secondly, the rent accrued from the shops beneath the mosque would go to the government. It was a solution that both sides ‘agreed to’.

Most interestingly, the Muslims allowed the Sikhs, on special occasions, to use portions of the mosque.

Before the mosque was built, the plot of land was a vacant one, which Nawaz Bukhari Khan purchased.

The design of the mosque needs some explaining. The pillars ending in a lotus configuration certainly does provide glimpses of Hindu-Sikh architecture but then the domes are more bulbous with plant formations. Traditionalists do not like the design while others find the amalgamation of several sub-continental traditions a beautiful mix. In all aspects, it is a beautiful building.

By the time the upheavals that followed the death of Ranjit Singh and the rise of the East India Company came, the mosque was in considerable disrepair. The British under McLeod did carry out essential repair work. Later on as 1947 approached, the Muslims of Lahore collected funds to maintain a falling structure. Further neglect began to further damage this beautiful mosque.

In 2011, the US ambassador to Pakistan visited the mosque as well as other historical sites during a tour of old Lahore and he was appalled at the condition of the mosque, especially given its history. Immediately, he set into motion a proposal whereby funds from the Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation of the USA were released.

The Americans insisted that only experienced and honest architects and artisans be allowed to work on conserving the mosque. The initial funding of $35,000 was released and the four domes were gilded in gold leaf, the minarets were ‘resurfaced’ and the flooring had new marble installed. It returned to its original glory.

Today the mosque is a protected monument and, ironically, as one newspaper report tells us, after the prayers the doors are locked to keep the tourists away. Why this happens, need investigation. The busy bazaar certainly does not mean that tourists and visitors, let alone those willing to silently pray, are disallowed from visiting this beautiful historic mosque.

Nearby the mosque built by Wazir Khan is nearing its conservation and it would not be a bad idea for the experts to visit Sunehri Masjid so as to put forth a plan to further improve conditions within the mosque. There is a lot of work to be undertaken within the domes as well as on the walls. The quality of work in the larger mosque nearby can certainly be extended to this historic mosque.

This piece was first published in Dawn, December 14th, 2020

Comments

Tiger Singh Dec 14, 2020 02:14pm
Sikhs and Muslims are natural friends. Hindus used divide and rule to hurt them. Now saints like Sidhu paa ji and Imran ji have brought us together.
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Md Dec 14, 2020 02:20pm
Khalistan is natural ally of the Lahori Punjab.
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Dr. Salaria, Aamir Ahmad Dec 14, 2020 02:21pm
A great, well-researched, wonderful, penetrating, excellent, mind-boggling and soul-searching history oriented article related to the sights and sounds of the centuries old city and nerve capital of Lahore, Islamic Republic of Pakistan. Well done, keep it up and hang on tough.
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Bk Dec 14, 2020 02:27pm
What happened to Maharaja Ranjit singh statue...
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Sab Se Pehle Pakistan Dec 14, 2020 02:28pm
Ranjeet Singh has a lot of history in Punjab. There is a lot of respect for the ancestors of our brothers and sisters from Punjab.
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Chrís Dăn Dec 14, 2020 02:33pm
What a cool read in dim cloudy day while home confined because of Covid 19. Thank you,Dear Dawn:)
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Laila Dec 14, 2020 02:34pm
I did not know this. The only sign that there had been Hindus and Sikhs in my Lahore is our family home, where our now converted hallway/kitchen used to be a place of worship. The frame/alter (whatever you call it) is still there. Then a few years ago I started seeing Sikhs whenever I visit my grandparents. Sikhs visit certain locations in Lahore because they have cultural religious value to them I learned. It was initially strange seeing them in bazaars and streets but now I am used to them. I guess for a diverse country we have somehow suppressed our diversity. I wish we could have a TV show or great epic movie depicting our rich history. It would be nice instead of just history books.
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Ali Mehdi Dec 14, 2020 02:41pm
Kings come n kings go with one thing in common ie plunder. Rules perhaps r in place not to hurt civilians or architecture but that they’re never really followed. Ranjit Singh as it is learnt from the article was an intelligent ruler n he did good things for people from all faith.
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joe Dec 14, 2020 03:01pm
@Md Khalistan is natural ally of the Lahori Punjab." Are you willing to part with Lahore as Khalistan capital?
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joe Dec 14, 2020 03:06pm
Firstly, they were to call the ‘Azan’ at a very low volume. "" How sensible this ruling was .It is more applicable today as there is just no need to remind worshiper about prayers time. Everyone has reminder on their mobile.
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Alam Dec 14, 2020 03:08pm
Any Khalistan is meaningless unless it includes both Indian and Pakistani Punjab!
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Rohit Dec 14, 2020 03:11pm
Lahore is the natural capital of an independent Khalistan
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Mohd. Kazi Dec 14, 2020 03:16pm
What a story! But I wonder, if the other religions start re-claiming their original buildings / monuments and land, where will we land up?? :-(
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M. Emad Dec 14, 2020 03:27pm
Maharaja Ranjit Singh is the Greatest Emperor in Pakistan history.
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Drone Dec 14, 2020 03:30pm
Minorities should have first right over resources in pakistan.
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Zain Dec 14, 2020 04:00pm
@Tiger Singh Totally agree.
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reu Dec 14, 2020 04:11pm
@Tiger Singh yes makes one wonder who killed the gurus and why sikhs left pakistan in 1947 , what was tara singhs demands was he a hindus. hope u go and lve in pakisran and be happy see how they treat u, then ask lahore as capital of khalistan repair the ranjit singh state in lahore whose arms are brooken we will remove a small maharaja ranjit singh in goa and send it to pakistan once u make lahore the capital regsrd richie
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Sayyar Khan Dec 14, 2020 04:12pm
@Laila meaning it belonged to a Hindu family and after partition your family took over. At least should find out which Hindu family owned it before partition.
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Chrís Dăn Dec 14, 2020 04:25pm
@Laila true. Some documentaries if ever we bothered to make.
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Asif A. Shah Dec 14, 2020 05:25pm
An interesting story! Thanks to the American Ambassador who took an interest in the renovation of this historic mosque! Muslims and Sikhs have so much in common that they can become exemplary trading partners and bring about prosperity in the region.
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SRK Dec 14, 2020 05:28pm
@Tiger Singh oh is it? Why did then Punjab divide during independence? They could have remained as one single unit. Please remember Pakistan is an Islamic republic
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Patriot Dec 14, 2020 06:02pm
Second mosque after Mecca constructed in Kerala and still functioning well.The land was donated by Hindu King.
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Sana Ullah Khan Dec 14, 2020 06:09pm
The story is technically wrong. At those times, there was no loudspeaker and moreover, it was in Busy Bazar as mentioned. Therefore, a mouth piece of gigantic shall have the strength to create disturbance, the alleged reason to close the mosque. Hence the basis of this story is just imagination. Hindu and Sikh are both from Hindu religion. Respect for all
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Zubair Dec 14, 2020 06:10pm
Yes, it's evident that even Cruel Muslim ruler is better than a kind non_muslim one. Because one day, he will be pursued to clip down your Holly place and endanger your faith. It is high time for My Muslim punjabi people to awake and destroy down statute of Ranjit Singh. It is huge propaganda of Fawad chaudhy and like minded people to destroy unity of ummh by playing card of nationalism.
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RationalBabu Dec 14, 2020 06:29pm
@Laila one way you have suppressed diversity is obviously by replacing real history with falsified history books!
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hawk Dec 14, 2020 06:50pm
What is the objective of re-publishing this story at this critical time? Media persons are exposing themselves because Pakistani educated youth knows how to evaluate the situation and draw the conclusion.
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Chrís Dăn Dec 14, 2020 06:55pm
@Zubair when a 'ruler' -all are same more or less and primarilly look after vested interests. Ranjit Singh was a benign ruler generally and we are morally bound to respect all the rulers in this area irrespective of religion if we wish that muslim rulers should be respected by other religions.
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Tauseef Ahmad Dec 14, 2020 06:56pm
Sikhs have nothing in common with Hindus. Why are Sikhs forced to live with Hindus? Its time to create Khalistan. Khalistan will have good relation with Pakistan. Sikh farmers wheat will then travel to Iran, Iraq and Turkey. They will get better price. These impoverished hindus cant pay well. Also they are polytheists and stone worshipers and their belief system conflicts with Sikhism. Sikhism has more in common with Islam. In fact some scholars suggest that Sikhism is a branch of islam only.
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Dr Quantum Dec 14, 2020 07:21pm
@Tauseef Ahmad and Lahore is capital of khalistan. Do you agree ??
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Arvind Dec 14, 2020 07:33pm
@Tiger Singh who killed tegbahadur ji
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Arvind Dec 14, 2020 07:34pm
@Md capital of khalistan is lahor
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SATT Dec 14, 2020 07:37pm
So Americans resurrected the feud ?
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Rkv Dec 14, 2020 07:37pm
@Tauseef Ahmad dreams dreams.
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Hasmukh dave Dec 14, 2020 07:45pm
@Tiger Singh Is it sarcastic comment or Siddu and IK ?
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Raghu Dec 14, 2020 07:45pm
@Tauseef Ahmad: u do realize Khalistan is entire Punjab rite ? Means both Indian & Paksitan states. Certainly your scholars are muslims. Do u want me to quote Sikh gurus from ages on whom they related to ?
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BHANGI CHAMAR Dec 14, 2020 07:49pm
@Zubair : Three Sikh bandits Ruling the Majority Muslim Punjab before Ranjit Singh . Muslims were very much disturbed and when the ruler of Afghanistan could not come to help the Muslims of Lahore/Punjab and that he suggested to Muslims to invite moderate Ranjit Singh to rule their 'majority' in Punjab. During Ranjit Singh's Rule in greater Punjab for about fifty years there, was never a resistance struggle to fight by the Islamists to destroy un-Islamic minority occupation. Only the Saiyyed Barelvi Shaheed came from across the present day Pakistani boarder but failed.
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Hasmukh dave Dec 14, 2020 07:54pm
@Tauseef Ahmad , Yes create khalistan with Lahor as capitol
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Pakhandi Dec 14, 2020 07:57pm
@Tauseef Ahmad yes Khalistan will be established. In the Punjab province of Pakistan will be freed and Lahore will be it's capital. Then the improvised people of ......
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Truth Dec 14, 2020 07:57pm
@Tiger Singh Oye Taimur Singih, Do you know Guru Teg Bahadur? And people die with him.
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Pakhandi Dec 14, 2020 07:58pm
@Tiger Singh Sikh community came into being to protect the Hindus from the atrocities of Muslims. Do you believe they are your brothers.
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Bikram Dec 14, 2020 08:25pm
@Pakhandi Nankana sahib is a must.
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Waseem, Canada Dec 14, 2020 08:56pm
@Alam Bangladesh is also meaningless without West Bengal including Calcutta.
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Rach Dec 14, 2020 09:57pm
@Tiger Singh that's why Guru Tegbahadur was assassinated by your brothers...
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Shaukat Dec 14, 2020 11:48pm
@Mohd. Kazi , Owning half of India wherever Muslim historic mosques, forts, Qutab Minar and Taj Mehal is, isn't it?
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Chris Roberts Dec 15, 2020 12:12am
What an interesting and delightful story! Religion is, sadly, often used as a barrier to keep people apart from each other, thereby defeating the purpose.
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AZAM AKBAR Dec 15, 2020 12:27am
@Ali Mehdi Mr. Ali Mehdi, * Ranjit Singh as it is learnt from the article was an intelligent ruler n he did good things for people from all faith. " No. What did Maharaja Ranjit Singh do to Badshahi Masjid in Lahore?
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Sane Dec 15, 2020 12:49am
@Tiger Singh look up how and why each of the 9 guru died.
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Igloo Dec 15, 2020 02:17am
Wow, an interesting read - and you managed to get a digs in at mullahs AND Afghans!
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Ravi Dec 15, 2020 03:37am
@M. Emad it was not Pakistan's history Pakistan started to exist after 1947. It is undivided Indian subcontinent's history.
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Aatapi Dec 15, 2020 08:44am
@Md Actually Khalistan is on West Panjab
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Asif Akbar Dec 15, 2020 09:06am
@Tiger Singh but these were the sikhs at tge time of partition who did much wrong to muslims than hindus did.
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Anonymouseee Dec 15, 2020 11:12am
Sikhs and Muslims brothers for life.
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Kris Dec 15, 2020 11:25am
@Tiger Singh Very true! Sikhs should have stayed back in Lahore and present dauy pakistan instead of moving to India. Even now not too late, please recover your glory!
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Sameer Dec 15, 2020 11:48am
At least they did not destroy the mosque to build a new gurudwars.
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Honest Dec 15, 2020 12:24pm
The sikh religion was created to fight the invaders. Hope you understand. It is because of the sikhs, then the marathas and the Vijayanagar empire of Karnataka, the invaders could not fully conquer Bharat. After almost 1000 years of islamic rule Bharat at time of independance was 82% Hindu. Iran was converted in 15 years, Egypt in 45 years.. Bharat after 111 years of islamic rule and 300 years of British rule is still 80% Hindu. It speaks volumes.
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Marquis de Sade Dec 15, 2020 12:36pm
@Mohd. Kazi: without any.
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AZAM AKBAR Dec 15, 2020 02:35pm
@Asif Akbar Mr. Asif Akbar, " @Tiger Singh but these were the sikhs at tge time of partition who did much wrong to muslims than hindus did. " You are absolutely right. Quaid-e-Azam offered a piece of land for stopping the massacre, lynching and killing the Muslims but the leadership of Sikhs did against Quaid's offer. Now the Sikhs are suffering.
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AZAM AKBAR Dec 15, 2020 02:42pm
@Sameer Mr. Sameer, " At least they did not destroy the mosque to build a new gurudwars. " The Sikhs didn't build a Guridwara on the ground of a Masjid but destroyed and disrespected. .
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Kashif Rehan Dec 15, 2020 02:44pm
@Rohit true and by that principle Delhi is the natural capital of Pakistan. We are ready for a swap at your earliest convenience dude
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Venkat Dec 15, 2020 02:58pm
@Tauseef Ahmad Yes, leave Lahore and west side of Pakistan to Khalistan
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T Dec 15, 2020 03:43pm
Read about Thua Khalsa village of Pakistan, Feb-Apr 1947 to know Love between Sikhs and Muslims.
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IM Dec 15, 2020 04:06pm
Sikhs don't need any Khalistan Walistan in the Sub Continent, in 50 years all of them will move to their own Canadastan.
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Laila Dec 15, 2020 04:10pm
@Sayyar Khan my grandfather bought the house in the early 1970s from a Muslim family who relocated outside Lahore. We don't know and can't find out more. So post partition the house had been in Muslim hands. I assume the Hindu family living there left for India just like many Muslims left Indian to come here to Pakistan in 1947. I am unable to find out more as the involved parties are no longer alive.
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Fact Dec 15, 2020 05:32pm
@Tiger Singh Hindus gave eldest sons of the family to become Sikhs. Either you are a fake Sikh or haven't read the history. Remember the Gurus.. how many were torchured and how by Mughals. How many were killed during partition. If not, just visit Gurdwara Shishganj whenever you come to Delhi. and remember the history. Don't give rubbish here
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K p rao Dec 15, 2020 05:33pm
@Bk It was defiled twice by friends of Sikhs
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K p rao Dec 15, 2020 05:35pm
@Mohd. Kazi So Indians did right in dismantling Babri masjid?
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LgbtqX Dec 15, 2020 06:57pm
It took the American money to restore it!!
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Cv Dec 15, 2020 07:15pm
Great story. They just knew how to live together and respect each other’s space in the old days. By 1947, everyone lost it.
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SP Dec 16, 2020 01:40am
@Tiger Singh Yes, Gurdwara Sis Ganj is a natural proof of this friendship. And Mian Mannoo used to pay a bounty for every Sikh head brought to the Ghora Mandi (horse market) of Lahore.
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Surya Kant Dec 16, 2020 01:33pm
Might is right. Whether it is a mosque or gurudwara depends upon who the rulers are.
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Hope786 Dec 17, 2020 01:36am
Lahore Lahore Ey, no doubt.
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raj Dec 17, 2020 08:32am
@Tiger Singh you should visit the museum at the Golden Temple
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