Shetan Goot Lake: An undiscovered ‘fairyland’ that is worth the trip

Trekking to this destination is not for the faint-hearted.
Published September 24, 2016


MINGORA: If you love adventure, and have willpower to spare, the Shetan Goot Lake should be on your travel bucket list. Located at the alpine pastures above Kedam village of Bahrain valley in Swat district, this spot is a true hidden gem.

After a taxing 13-hours-long trek on a risky trail of a steep rocky mountain, the sight of a huge mirror-like waterbody at once captures ones attention. The viewer at once gets a sense of mystery and excitement. The alpine glacial lake is perched 13,404 feet above sea level at the end of a 30-kilometre-long pasture to the north of Kedam in Bahrain valley.

A view of houses at Kedam on the way to the Shetan Goot Lake.
A view of houses at Kedam on the way to the Shetan Goot Lake.

Local residents of a nearby settlement sit on a rock on the way to Shetan Goot and Sarbanda lakes.
Local residents of a nearby settlement sit on a rock on the way to Shetan Goot and Sarbanda lakes.

Shetan Goot translates to ‘Devil’s corner’. From times unknown, shepherds gave the area this title because of its unmatched beauty and paranormal phenomenon. It is said this is where fairies dwell under devil’s guardianship.

Perhaps the first shepherd who happened to spot the waterbody was stunned into silence at seeing the inexplicable site and called in a loud voice, “The devil deliberately hid this mysteriously stunning lake, surely, a fairyland, from human eye. Hey! It is a devil’s corner.”

“Those who drink water from the Lake become mischievous and commit negative deeds,” said a shepherd who lives near the Shetan Goot.

View of a hamlet on the way to Shetan Goot and Sarbanda lakes.
View of a hamlet on the way to Shetan Goot and Sarbanda lakes.

Sheep look at trekkers while a local walks upwards on the way to Shetan Goot.
Sheep look at trekkers while a local walks upwards on the way to Shetan Goot.

Tariq Aziz, a professional trekker from Mingora said that he trekked to all the three great mountain chains of Pakistan but the natural beauty of Swat was beyond comparison.

“The trek to Sehtan Goot is certainly difficult,” he said. But he believes that it is worth it, “It starts from Kedam in Bahrain valley and traverses through a magically beautiful valley where trekkers can witness dazzling beauty of lush green meadows, milky waterfalls, forests and mountains.”

“People of the valley are highly hospitable and well-mannered who offer yogurt water, tea and other local foods to the trekkers,” he told Dawn.

A dazzling view to the combination of blue sky and lush green landscape.
A dazzling view to the combination of blue sky and lush green landscape.

Trekkers enjoy hot tea.
Trekkers enjoy hot tea.

Aziz has another explanation of why the area is named devil’s corner: the reason could be the difficult trek, which tested trekkers’ will power.

About the trail, trekkers said that sometimes during the trek they wanted to give up halfway. But with the support of experienced trekkers they continued to carry on.

“Its water is so transparent that one can see oneself in the water. I must not call it devil’s corner but a fairyland,” said Faisal Saeed, a student who trekked to the lake.

This lake referred to as 'Green Lake' was an extensive waterbody. Shepherds say that the 2010 floods inundated the area with so much sand and rocks that the lake has largely dried out.
This lake referred to as 'Green Lake' was an extensive waterbody. Shepherds say that the 2010 floods inundated the area with so much sand and rocks that the lake has largely dried out.

A long queue of sheep passes on a glacier.
A long queue of sheep passes on a glacier.

Before reaching Shetan Goot lake trekkers have to cross several hamlets, including Kandaro Banda, Izmisko Banda, Soney Banda, Kanaroo Banda, Tarkanai Banda, Jabba Banda, Bissa Banda,Gulono Banda, Karro Banda and then Sarbanda.

Abdul Basit a student who trekked for the first time said apart from the enchanting beauty of the lake he experienced many other good things.

“During the trek a brutal hailstorm struck; in the pitiless weather we took shelter under a huge rock but the freezing cold did not let us stay there and we decided to run down to a settlement where the shepherds’ rooms were empty. We went there and lit a fire to fight the severe cold. After an hours wait the hailstorm subsided and we resumed our trek towards Sarbanda where we spent the night in an eight-by-eight feet mosque,” he narrated.

Trekkers rest and enjoy the view of Sarbanda Lake.
Trekkers rest and enjoy the view of Sarbanda Lake.

There are three at Sarbanda known as Sarbanda Lakes
There are three at Sarbanda known as Sarbanda Lakes

Another trekker from Mingora, Baber Ali shares that there are three beautiful lakes on the way at Sarbanda, “… the beauty of [these lakes] refreshes trekkers and makes it easy to go further and reach the summit.”

Local shepherds told Dawn that because of the intimidating trek, very few locals have visited the Shetan Goot, while he is yet to come across any outsiders making the trip.

“This is the first trekker group from Mingora which has visited the Shetan Goot Lake and I hope other adventure lovers and trekkers will also visit it,” said Behroz Khan a local tour guide.

A panorama view of Shetan Goot Lake.
A panorama view of Shetan Goot Lake.

All photographs are by the author.