DAWN - Features; September 3, 2003

Published September 3, 2003

Travelogues with a touch of patriotism

Mr Qamer Ali Abbasi, a travelogue writer and author of around 22 books was in the city last week. Based in New York, he had come this time with a couple of travelogues — one about Morocco and the other about Germany.

Mr Abbasi, a career broadcaster, wrote his first travelogue about his visit to Singapore in the 1980s. Later he went to India to meet relatives and friends. Back home he wrote a travelogue with a touch of nostalgia. The book, apart from other things, contained references to some delectable Indian dishes. One of his acquaintances read these with great relish.

Later, he travelled to England twice and wrote travelogues after each visit. Then he went to the US, Canada and some Middle Eastern countries, and, being a compulsive travel writer, wrote about these visits. The ‘Pakistaniat’ of those travelogues won appreciation from Gen (retd) Moin Haider, a “life president” of Mr Abbasi’s book launchings.

Foreign travel was once a very unusual activity. In those good old days Saiyyid Ahmad Khan wrote, what his contemporaries considered, a novel and highly insightful account of his journey to and sojourn in England. It was called Musaferan-i-London.

Now the jet age and the international labour market have nearly taken all novelty out of travel and travelogues. Yet there are lovers of this genre of literature, who refuse to quit. In fact there are some who would like to share their experiences of even an overnight stay at an airport hotel in a foreign country.

Mr Abbasi is a committed person. In his patriotic zeal, he writes more about his own country than the host country. He makes an effort to fictionalise his narrative but keeps a balance between the two genres. He does chance upon pretty women here and there but not as often as M.H.T. in the course of his venturesome journeys.

An encounter with women during travel was not uncommon even in the past. In his travel account referred to above, Saiyyid Ahmad Khan mentions meeting on board the ship an interesting woman, Nasiba, an aya by profession hailing from Kanpur. It was her 21st visit to Europe (in 1861). Employed on contract by the European families going back home, Nasiba would take charge of baba log on the long boring sea voyage, to the great relief of the ladies. She could speak English fluently, having visited England, Scotland, France, Portugal and other places. But Aya Nasiba was unlucky. No publisher asked her to write a travelogue.

Visit any bookshop and you will see that travelogues are second only to autobiographies, unless religious literature not being taken into account. Poetry is not in demand any longer. Leaving aside a couple of poets, most of them publish their creations at their own cost and distribute copies to friends and relatives in the way sacrificial meet is distributed on Eid-ul- Azha.

*****

Dr Moin Qureshi was awarded gold medals by several organizations at the 50th anniversary of his writing career at a function held last week. His 13th book, a volume of humorous writings titled ‘Pahar talay’, was also launched on the occasion.

The cash award as well as the gold medals invalidated Mr Zahid Hussain’s lamentation that humour was not tolerated in our society. An industrialist and trader, Mr Hussain, felt that writing humour was a futile exercise in the present cultural environment. However, he was eloquent in paying tribute to Dr Qureshi and quoted some interesting bits from his book.

Dr Qureshi, who recently retired from government service, has been writing humorous columns, essays and travelogues in both Urdu and English during his long writing career.

While admiring the role of writers, Mr Hussain said they raise the moral and spiritual level of society. He thought no less of the role of industrialists and traders who brought material prosperity to the people.

Mr Yusuf Baghpati, an emissary of Mr Salim Murad, a Dubai based industrialist, had brought the cash award and a gold medal for Dr Qureshi.

A PPP leader, Mr N.D. Khan, though not scheduled to speak was however invited to express his views on Dr Qureshi’s writings. Mr Khan, who keeps a low profile these days, said he was happy to find himself in the company of writers. He recalled with a sense of loss his own early career as a writer and rued the day he was dragged into politics. He said he was planning a comeback.

A senior humorist-poet, Inayat Ali Khan, recited his verse in praise of Mr Qureshi’s book.


A rupee for your thoughts!

By Maheen A. Rashdi


KARACHI: I would give anything to know what was passing through the General’s mind when he stood (on August 25) near the pavement lining our now deserted coastline at Seaview, with one foot resting on the cemented seating area, gazing at the sea. Was it sorrow at the near irreparable damage our sea has recently suffered? Disgust at the inept and delayed damage control tactics of the concerned authorities (of his government)? Or, remorse at not having attended earlier to a national calamity the likes of which any head of state would be ashamed?

If it was just another customary survey then there would little emotion involved, as it would then obviously be just an outcome of direct criticism hurled by many regarding the distinct unconcern shown hitherto by the country’s most powerful man by remaining absent from the fray? Actually, the expression read more like a General surveying the battlefield! And that is precisely my question — what did he assess after his survey of the battlefield?

I also wonder which route he took to reach the affected are. Did he happen to take the Khayaban-i-Jami road (between the submarine and Schon Circle) which is no more really a road but just a route comprising craters of all sizes, or did he come via Kalapul using the make-shift two-way road (dirt track more like) used by Heavy Vehicles and school-goers alike. And was it rush hour when he came? Like between 12:00 and 3:00 in the afternoon or 5:00 and 8:00 in the evening? But oh, how clumsy of me! How could he catch the rush hour when the traffic was obviously cleared from his entire route (it was raising havoc elsewhere at the time). But surely he would have had the opportunity of looking out the window and really ‘see’ Karachi with its broken down road network, and sewage system or were his car companions judiciously keeping him busy in conversation all the while?

It has of late become a burning ambition with me to just know what goes on in the minds of all those who are legally, morally and professionally responsible for Karachi. There are enough reports published daily on road conditions, traffic jams, sewage and water problems and the ensuing misery these inflict on Karachiites but there is no relief, not even a lull that one may hope for.

A year ago, the Nazim of Karachi had proposed a percentage of road tax to be levied on all those buying fuel for their vehicle. He had asserted that the funds would help in restructuring Karachi’s road network and other civic utilities. All I can say that it was in his benefit that no such tax was levied — specially on Karachiites — as murder and mayhem would have surely erupted because of his suggestion. What would be more in line would be for the citizens to actually be made privy to the financial accounts of the city and provincial government, so that we exactly know where the taxpayers’ returns (read: OUR MONEY) are being spent and to take a general consensus from the denizens as to what areas need immediate attention.

When I see water still standing in places after rains which ended over three weeks ago, garbage lining the roads where I track daily for work etc., and traffic jams increasing because of broken roads it is small wonder that I have not become militant and gone berserk with a spray gun, killing every concerned Authority in sight! Specially, when I see a perfectly sound and solid road in Islamabad being ‘re-carpeted’ because — well, just because!

Why, oh, why is Karachi condemned to being chaotic and Karachiites subjected to continued battered living? How many Master Plans will be made and how many times will the city structure be revamped to give us an eye-wash that things are improving. And to top it all, the bulk of the revenue generated through the hard work put in by ALL of Karachi’s various traders, professionals and all kinds of income generators goes directly into the National coffers. For what? To pay politicos to meet, sup and argue over the LFO or to re-carpet a perfectly sound neighbourhood?

It would really not be out of place if the citizens of Karachi demanded compensation from the government for wrecking our psyche and turning us all into individuals with a nervous breakdown ready to happen!

Things were never this dismal in the city of the Quaid. As the battle on our beach rages on between the aggression of the waves bent on ripping apart a grounded vessel and in disgorging its crude cargo near and far to leave mass destruction in its wake, and against human forces attempting to curb nature’s forces in doing so, the city itself seems to be precariously hanging on its last threads of a so-called civic system. Ironically, the near breakdown of Karachi follows the President’s plans of turning Karachi into an international investor’s delight and particularly of redecorating our coastline into a tourist resort of global standard resembling those lining the Corniche elsewhere in the world.

At present, these flamboyant dreams look rather ludicrous, as we have nothing but a decrepit and torn down city to contend with. In fact, despite being born, bred, educated and professionally recognized here, I now find myself advising friends writing/visiting from abroad, “don’t even think about re-locating back here. I wouldn’t recommend it to my worst enemy!” However, having sufficiently expended my wrath I can now calmly reason that I will never get satisfied explanations to any of the anomalies I have stated above. No miracle is in store and my (attempted) bombastic writing will never turn any tide. But, as I said, ‘I will still give anything to know what DID the General think when he stood on the pavement lining our now deserted coastline at Seaview, with one foot resting on the cemented seating area, gazing at the sea.’

Pakistan’s second Test win far from convincing

Bangladesh reached their highest ever Test score and Javed Omar made his maiden Test century and Habibul Bashar narrowly missed what would have been his second “to”. Then the veteran Mohammad Rafigue took five wickets and the part-time spinner, Alok Kapali got a hat trick and Bangladesh wrapped up Pakistan’s far from convincing first innings and took a 66-run lead.

Yet, it lost the Test by nine wickets, the margin representing a rags-to-riches recovery for Pakistan who seemed surprised that in the end it was all too easy.

What happened? Bangladesh was sitting pretty. The it got hit by a cyclone called Shoaib Akhtar. But more than that, it froze at its sudden good fortune. It was like a famished man being taken to a buffet and the sight of all the food on the table makes him lose his appetite.

Losing has become so embedded in the cricket psyche of Bangladesh cricket that the prospects of winning terrifies it. Bangladesh played brilliant cricket in the first innings and played like punch-drunk boxers in the second, it was like watching two different matches.

There is no doubt that Shoaib Akhtar was the difference. In the first Test match and for a part of the second, he seemed disinterested as if missing the cooler climes of Durham and its greenery.

He seemed suddenly to perk up after lunch on the second day, as if, too, we were watching two Shoaib Akhtars. It was, as if, jolted by an electrical charge. It was as good a display of fast bowling as we are likely to see. Too bad it was wasted on a lesser team. This was the sort of match-winning bowling we had wanted from him in the World Cup.

Though local boy Yasir Hameed failed Mohmmad Hafeez got a hundred in the second innings though he looked pretty adjacent off the first ball he faced. Had Russell Tiffin not been an ICC umpire that decision would have come under greater scrutiny for traces of home advantage.

But good luck, bad luck all evens out and Hafeez confirmed that he is here to stay. Making a Test hundred does wonders for a batsman. And I certainly hope that he and Taufiq Omar will continue to open the innings for Pakistan for a long time.

Shoaib Akhtar has been released to go back to Durham and play out his contract. But this has been offset by the inclusion of Saqlain Mushtaq. Saqlain is one of those players whose career resembles a roller-coaster ride and another one of those players about whom we are undecided whether he belongs in the Test arena or the one-day game.

Actually, he belongs in both. No such doubts exist about Muttiah Muralitharan and Saqlain Mushtaq is in that class. I hope good sense will now prevail and he will be accepted for what he is, one of the best off-spinners in the world.

Much is made of Bangladesh’s tour of Australia, as if it was a pilgrimage to Lourdes, the French city famous for miracle-cures. Their good performance is being attributed to the experience gained and confidence bolstered by playing against Australia.

Everyone expected Bangladesh to be steam-rolled and even though it lost all its matches by hefty margins. There is no doubt that playing against Australia is a learning experience.

But credit has to go to Dav Whatmore who has taken the team, not to great heights, but back to basics. He sits on the player’s balcony and watches every ball. For the Bangladesh team it is, as if, Big Brother is watching.

Clearly he is getting respect from the team. He had harsh words to say about it when it snatched defeat from the joys of victory but his criticism will be heeded.

Pakistan has won both the Tests and the series. But there is something not quite right and one is not able to identify what it is that is missing. It could be that the team has not been able to shake off the complacency with which it started the Test series.

I don’t want to take away anything from Bangladesh’s quite splendid performance but Pakistan made winning hard work. What if Shoaib Akhtar had not fired on all cyclinders? Was there a plan B?

I think it is very important that we get a settled look to the team for the matches against South Africa. South Africa won the Lord’s Test without Jacques Kallis and it won the Headingly Test without Shaun Pollock.

What this means is that it has the capability of turning a handicap into an advantage. The other players were expected to make that much more of a greater effort. And that is precisely what happened. What is vital to understand is that South Africa expects its lower order and its tail to make contributions with the bat.

Andrew Hall coming in at number nine makes 99 not out and gives away the strike because every run was crucial. It is this kind of selflessness that contributes to team effort. Teams win matches and not the super-stars.

England has finally decided to bring back Graham Thorpe. It is a decision that may have come too late. And it has happened because Nasser Hussain is unfit. There will be pressure on him but think of the pressure on the selectors if he should score a century! Graham Thorpe could have been what Gary Kirsten is to the South African team- a Rock of Gibraltar.