Tranquility amidst turbulence

Published January 22, 2013
Bidding Adieu to Mubarak Village.
Bidding Adieu to Mubarak Village.
Babu Lal ?tourist villa? on the beach, now just a few planks of wood
Babu Lal ?tourist villa? on the beach, now just a few planks of wood
A shop by the sea powered by a solar panel.
A shop by the sea powered by a solar panel.
Many fishing boats were standing idle waiting for fishermen from Karachi.
Many fishing boats were standing idle waiting for fishermen from Karachi.
A view of the boat harbour reminiscent of ancient times with the village in the background.
A view of the boat harbour reminiscent of ancient times with the village in the background.
A fishing boat from the village.
A fishing boat from the village.
For those with a philosophical bent of mind, there is the school wall for sitting and contemplation.
For those with a philosophical bent of mind, there is the school wall for sitting and contemplation.
Brothers building dreams in sand.
Brothers building dreams in sand.
Village children rehearsing ?James Bond in Mubarak Village.?
Village children rehearsing ?James Bond in Mubarak Village.?
Blue waters and golden sand.
Blue waters and golden sand.
Jagged rocks jutting into the water provide a lovely counterpoint to the smoothness of the sea.
Jagged rocks jutting into the water provide a lovely counterpoint to the smoothness of the sea.
An inter-play of light and darkness.
An inter-play of light and darkness.
Carvings by nature. Red sea weed add colour to the golden beach.
Carvings by nature. Red sea weed add colour to the golden beach.
A typical hut in the village.
A typical hut in the village.
On the way to Mubarak Goth,the hills of Balochistan invite you to take a trek to the other side.
On the way to Mubarak Goth,the hills of Balochistan invite you to take a trek to the other side.
A more humble but far more creative hut.
A more humble but far more creative hut.

Weary of obsessively watching the spectacle of a man trapped in a container, I decided to take a break and go some place where sanity still prevailed.

So I went to Mubarak Goth, a small fishing village near Karachi.   The village located approximately 60 km down the Hawks Bay-Mubarak Goth Road, is a longish 2 hours drive on roads through the usual busy and hectic parts of Karachi.  The madness of Karachi gradually gives way to the mostly empty landscape of barren hills.  Very basic huts made of wood planks and straw, and in some cases just rags, sprout up along the way.   This part of Karachi is one of the poorest in town. As you drive down the road, hills dividing Sindh from Balochistan run along your right side. The landscape, while rugged and almost bereft of vegetation, is very majestic and serene.

Mubarak Goth boasts what is most likely the cleanest beach in the vicinity of Karachi.  The sand is pure gold and the water is almost azure in colour.  Since there are not many visitors and no shacks selling food the garbage so ubiquitous on the other Karachi beach is almost non-existent.

The sea gives you two choices.  On one side there is the wide, pristine beach with small hills beautifully carved by nature standing at the back and to one side.

The other side of the beach is the mooring place for boats.  Here you can rent a boat and go out fishing in the deep part of the sea. A fisherman told me that during the relatively peaceful times of General Musharraf far more local and foreign tourists came here to fish and it was hard to find a boat available for rent.  I saw that while there were still some tourists renting boats, most boats were standing idle.

As we drove back to the madness of Karachi and the circus show on the television, I look back wistfully at the peace and quiet of the Mubarak Village.

—Text and images by Vaqar Ahmed

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