Q. I wish to transform my garden into a food forest using heirloom seeds. Is there an authentic heirloom seed bank in the country from where I could obtain the necessary seeds? I am returning after many years abroad so am not up to date with such things.

A. The setting up of a heritage seed bank has been talked about in gardening circles on and off over the last 15-20 years but, as far as I know, no one has yet taken on the challenge of doing so. Some dedicated gardeners/agriculturalists have their personal collections of heritage seeds and share them informally. I think the best way forward for you is to join some of the local gardening forums on social media and request heritage seeds on their pages. Who knows, perhaps you can be the one to organise the much-needed heritage seed bank on a country-wide scale. Our heritage seeds are an irreplaceable treasure and should be conserved for the generations yet to be born.

Q. My grafted rose bush is growing new stems from a point below the graft. Should these stems be removed or not?

A. Yes, they should. Any shoots growing below the graft are from the desi rootstock that the named rose variety has been grafted on to. Remove such shoots as soon as you see them. If they are left to grow, they eventually take over, often killing off the grafted newcomer in the process.

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Q. I planted several David Austin rose cuttings last November and kept them under plastic until the third week of March. They have made new leaves and seem happy. When should I transfer them to the sunny bed I have chosen to be their permanent home and how should I care for them until then? Also, should they be covered with plastic again during the summer monsoon period?

A. Leave the cuttings in their pots until next autumn at least. The appearance of new leaves is a good sign but they haven’t yet had enough time to develop a strong root system; this takes 8-12 months. If you move them too soon, you may lose them. Do not cover them with plastic again at any point, especially not during the summer monsoon, when humidity is sky high, as they are liable to suffer mildew and/or other fungal diseases which develop in hot, damp conditions if air circulation is poor. Meanwhile, simply water as required, watering the soil around the plants without wetting the leaves. Keep your eyes open for aphid and other bug attacks and treat to a feed of, preferably organic, liquid fertiliser, once every 6 weeks to encourage root formation and maintain overall health.

Q. Can we grow olive trees in Gilgit-Baltistan where the winter is very cold? If so, where can I get suitable saplings?

A. Olive trees can survive temperatures as low as minus 5°C without suffering too badly, but a winter temperature of -8°C to -10°C is liable to kill even established olive trees. I really wouldn’t like to recommend that you take such a chance, as you may well lose your investment. On the other hand, if you decide to take a gamble, the best is to contact your local agricultural department and ask them for advice on olive tree varieties most suitable for your localised soil and climatic conditions.

Q. In your monthly seed-sowing guide, you often mention growing different kinds of cabbage in different seasons. I would like to know in what way are winter cabbages different from spring cabbages, for example? Surely a cabbage is just a cabbage!

A. Winter cabbage varieties are more cold- tolerant than spring or summer cabbage varieties, and they also take longer to grow from seed to harvesting time. Also, winter cabbages tend to form hard heads whilst spring and summer ones are far more leafy and open. Additionally, the leaves of winter cabbage tend to be tougher, take longer to cook and have a stronger taste than those grown at other times of the year.

Q. Twice I have tried growing carrots in my garden near Lahore. Each time though, instead of being long and straight in shape, the carrots are really weird. Some are short and fat with thin bits sticking out here and there. Others look like a children’s jigsaw puzzle of a carrot put together wrong. What is going on and what can I do about it?

A. These are the two most common reasons for your weirdly shaped carrots: 1) Incorrect soil conditions. Carrots need a top quality, sandy-loamy soil mix, which is high in organic matter, and completely free of stones if they are to grow long and straight. The roots become deformed if their development is obstructed by stones, and also if fresh farmyard manure (as against completely rotted down manure) has been used in the soil preparation. 2) The ground may be infected with a fungus commonly known as club root fungus which can be eradicated by applying organic lime. The amount of organic lime to use varies depending on existing soil pH and soil type. Have the soil pH checked and then follow the application advice provided on the lime packet.

Please continue sending your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. Remember to include your location. The writer does not respond directly by email. Emails with attachments will not be opened

Published in Dawn, EOS, April 24th, 2022