The healthy and clean eating trend is catching up slowly and gradually and restaurants have either introduced a handful of healthy, nutritious dishes to their menus or entire restaurants are modelled to cater to this niche. I recently paid a visit to one of the latter kind.

Located slightly away from the hustle and bustle of the MM Alam Road near Liberty’s Dupatta Gali is the unassuming white stone structure of Dalston House, with a cosy little courtyard to relish (or brave) the chill in Lahore’s air these days. The name of this six-month-old café-restaurant is borrowed from the London neighbourhood of Dalston known for its hip fashion and café culture where one of the owners hails from.

The interior also follows the white theme with the furniture, marble tables and counter. With sunlight beaming in through the paneled windows during the day and brightening the dining hall or light bulbs twinkling in the evening, the space gives out a serene, calming vibe. The menu boasts of a wide range of modern, healthy, comfort Mediterranean food traversing the Middle East, North Africa and Europe – inspired by the travels of the owners. The restaurant claims that they don’t use MSG, preservatives, flavoured powders or stocks and meat tenderisers in their food. In their courtyard, they also grow their own herbs, such as moringa, basil and lavender.

Instead of the usual appetisers, there are ‘small plates’ that may seem humble, but feature light, fresh, innovative dishes that can be shared and nibbled on while you wait for the mains. A friend and I decided to order a few of these. The fried rosemary chips were, well, French fries sprinkled with rosemary and served with the finger-licking African herb chermoula sauce; the seal salt mentioned on the menu was either lacking or negligible.

The cumin-baked carrot slices were sprinkled with cumin and dill with a hint of lemon and some feta cheese to go with them. As light as air, these soft carrots and cheese are a health conscious person’s dream. The courgette chips, or zucchini chips (in America), were thinly sliced, fried zucchini (that could have been a bit crispier) served with that mouth-watering chermoula sauce. Then there’s also the fresh orange slices served with olive oil and a light drizzle of honey.

These small plates were so light and fresh that we had ample appetite left for the main course, and one marvels at how the everyday fruit and veggies can be given a slight creative twist and turned into something so novel and tasty.

From the classics, we had the creamy hummus made with za’atar and sumac and served with tender minced beef, black olives and soft, fluffy pita bread was light with a tangy tinge from the sumac.

From the mains, we first had the seared tuna with a pistachio crust and a fresh, spicy papaya salsa. The bitterness from the seared tuna was balanced by the spicy fruit, and made for a light plate of food.

Next was the beef and charred tomato gnocchi sprinkled with some parmesan cheese. The potato gnocchi, though delicious, had a little bite to it; I would personally prefer a fluffier, airy gnocchi. The minced beef and tomato sauce definitely provided the flavours of classic comfort food.

The coriander and honey marinated lamb chops were tender and flavourful with dollops of a bright green herby coriander sauce. They were served on the side with earthy “jewelled” rice comprising currants, herbs and pistachio. Quintessentially Middle Eastern.

All the food was topped with one of the most amazing cheesecakes I’ve ever had: the ricotta cheesecake that had hints of lemon and cinnamon. What sets it apart from a regular cheesecake are the bittersweet flavours of ricotta cheese, wheat biscuits and cinnamon – a winning combination for sure! Try it with their English tea or a cup of Americano.

As evident from the dishes mentioned, Dalston House aims to serve nutritious, fresh, light food for those watching their waists or for those trying to avoid feeling bloated and heavy. Some of the fruity small plates may not seem worth the price, but overall the restaurant is fairly priced for what it serves and aims to achieve. However, consistency is the key!

Published in Dawn, January 19th, 2020