KARACHI: Veteran couturier Rizwan Beyg opened the last day of Hum Showcase with his collection ‘Pearlessence’ which also marks his three decades as a designer. With his meticulous eye for detail and taking indigenous craft and applying it to present-day apparel, this time too the designer based the essence of his collection on the incredibly intricate motifs and patterns found within the historic Talpur Mir mausoleums in Hyderabad and under the banner of his project Bunyaad, which employs artisans from Southern Punjab, brought it all to the runway. Possibly his most successful and memorable since he presented collections based on neewar and truck art on the ramp, the reclusive master craftsman employed pearls as the main elements of embellishment supported by fine thread embroideries and sequins on a monochromatic ivory base comprising traditional and modern silhouettes. Embellished oversized pockets and his classic cuts all found their way into the spellbinding collection. Asim Azhar walked for the designer.

The collection titled ‘Jhirki’ (house sparrow) by Wardha Saleem also sought revival of ancient forgotten crafts by reintroducing the wooden block print technique painstakingly chiseled out of blocks of wood by hand to create both geometrical and floral motifs. Having started her career with the same technique, the designer comes full circle to create exquisite outfits crafted from silks, organzas and chiffons with embroideries. The entire look was that of understated elegance and a playful use of colour that brought all the elements together in one splendid art form. Sara Khan in a kimono-inspired cut walked for Wardha Saleem.

Munib Nawaz presented Dash, the connect and disconnect between words representing his collection which does the same and based on the ‘90s Grunge era and modern vibes with denim, plaid and stripes for the man on the go on the streets or the executive boardroom. Checks, stripes and floral prints as well as jackets in active wear featured freely besides zippered looks. Formal and casual suits with a twist added to the versatility of the Dash collection. Director Wajahat Rauf and his family, along with the lead cast of the Eidul Fitr release Chaalawa, namely Azfar Rehman and Mehwish Hayat, walked for the designer.

Inspired by artist Georgia O’Keeffe’s water colour paintings, Natasha Kamal put together the amazingly fluid and colourful ‘Lilium’ in lily tones with pure silks and chiffons. 3d necklines and oversized frills further accentuated and complimented the sleek cuts and silhouettes.

Gypsy by Khaadi Khaas was all about Spanish flamboyance and the passionate history of the flamenco dancers as well as the drama of the matador and the longings of the gypsy. The ostentatiousness and the vibrancy of colors and the vivaciousness and oversize matador roses were all embodied and depicted to stunning detail and accuracy and adopted brilliant into the design ethos and philosophy.

Jazib Qamar’s ‘Kashmakash’ delved into playfulness with insect impressions, neon buttons, gota-and-ribbon-weaving techniques in sherwanis and suits which was structured keeping rock star wardrobes in full fashion focus. The designer has always been known for eccentric tastes when it comes to menswear, and while he has yet to kick start mass tends, he comes out with noteworthy pieces during his ramp shows. Feroz Khan walked in the segment.

Dynasty by Sana Safinaz delved into timelessness and old Holywood glamour with pure silk-crafted noisy prints and solid in flapper pants, balloon sleeves as well as pleated tight short skirts, all very divaesque and screaming and oozing pomp, glamour and flamboyance. A triumph hands down.

Published in Dawn, April 22nd, 2019