People Speak

Published November 17, 2018
Manzoor Elahi, 39, Bhamala Stupa site attendant
Manzoor Elahi, 39, Bhamala Stupa site attendant

I’m a native of Bhamala village and I serve as a site attendant and caretaker of the Buddhist stupa and monastery in Bhamala, which dates back to the 2nd to 5th century BC. This site is some 25 kilometres from Taxila Museum.

I’m proud to have served as the site attendant for almost a decade, as this stupa and monastery have a unique significance to Gandhara civilisation. This site is the largest surviving example of its particular shape, which resembles the Aztec pyramids.

It is also the site of the remarkable discovery of the world’s oldest statue depicting the Mahaparinirvana (the death of the Buddha), which is 1,700 years old and 48ft long, as well as the ‘double-halo’ Buddha statue — the first of its kind to have been found in the entire Buddhist civilisation in Pakistan.

We have been protecting Buddhist sites in the area for generations. My grandfather served with the last surveyor-general of united India, Sir Johan Marshall, before partition and helped with the excavation of many Buddhist sites located in the area, such as Bhamala and Julian.

My father and uncle also served with the Department of Archaeology and Museums and saw many legendary national and international personalities — like Imran Khan — visit these Buddhist sites and the Taxila Museum.

I also act as a guide for local and foreign tourists, and in return they tip me which helps me earn some extra money. I have to fight natural agents as well as illegal treasure hunters to protect this site, as evil things often descend here at night and try to hurt us using different tactics.

We have been protecting Buddhist sites from generation to generation; the love for these sites runs like blood in our bodies.

Published in Dawn, November 17th, 2018

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