RAWALPINDI: The history of grilled meat is as old as mankind itself, and in South Asia barbequed meat varies according to local culture and tradition, from spicy Mughlai to savoury Afghan style barbeque.

There are many options for those looking for Afghan-style barbeque kebabs and tikka, ranging from upscale restaurants to roadside stalls, particularly in the winter.

There are two varieties of tikka – chicken and beef. For the beef tikkas, chunks of beef are skewered with lamb fat and tomatoes and grilled over coal.

Chicken tikkas are available, but authentic Afghani tikkas are made with lamb, which is what you want for a real taste of Afghan cuisine.

Beef kebabs are also available, and made by marinating minced beef in onion water and salt. The tenderness of the kebab combines with savoury flavour from the salt and the smokiness from the coal to emphasise the flavour of the meat without relying on a lot of spices.

Barbeque dishes are typically served with Afghani naan, which is around twice the size of local naan, but can also come accompanied by Afghani pulao.

A special chutney made of mint, green chillies and vinegar is also a key component of barbeque dishes, while upscale restaurants may offer a mint, green chilli and yoghurt raita.

“We have been serving barbeque for many years now, and we hired a special cook from Afghanistan so we could provide the authentic taste of food from across the border,” Sajjad Khan from Khiva Restaurant said.

He said the restaurant serves two kinds of barbeque: spicy and mild.

“We serve Mughlai and Afghan barbeque to customers. Most people want something different from the traditional spicy meat and prefer Afghan barbeque because it is simple and savoury,” he added.

“Although there is little difference between Afghan and Shinwari cuisine, we are trying to keep a balance between the two,” he said.

Mohammad Abdullah, the owner of an Afghan restaurant in Saddar, said Afghan barbeque is simply but technically challenging.

“We do not use yoghurt or lemon to make the meat tender, or boil it before grilling. We use onion water as a marinade and grill on coals,” he explained.

He added that fresh meat is hung in front of fans in the summer and in the open air in the winter for six hours before being grilled.

“No preservatives are used. The real flavour comes through fresh meat, not frozen,” he said.

“Afghan barbeque is a better option to break the routine of traditional food. We usually come to the restaurant for the Afghan barbeque; the flavours are natural and different,” Arsalan Ahmed Khan, a customer in a Saddar restaurant, said.

The natural fat emphasises the flavour of the meat itself, he explained. “Red meat dishes are not good for the diet-conscious, but they should be tried for a change,” he added.

Raza Ali said he prefers his barbeque with Afghani pulao, while his families prefer naan and chutney. He added that the beef is easy on the stomach accompanied by green tea.

Published in Dawn, November 12th, 2018