Dear reader, online ads enable us to deliver the journalism you value. Please support us by taking a moment to
As I entered the samadhi of Sir Ganga Ram in Lahore, I took out my phone to photograph the small yellow, domed structure standing on one side of a vast enclosure.
I managed to sneak in a couple of photographs before a middle-aged man jumped up from his chair under the shade of a tree near the building, wagged his finger, and asked me to stop.
He was a government official posted here to look after the memorial where the ashes of the philanthropist who designed and built several of Lahore’s landmarks are interred.
Indeed, his tenure as the executive engineer of Lahore towards the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century, is now referred to as the "Ganga Ram architectural period".
Traveling around Pakistan, I have become accustomed to the attitude of government officials at historical structures. I have often been barred from photographing these buildings.
Sometimes, the officials relent when I tell them I need the photographs for a journalistic assignment, but even that does not always work.
This official was adamant. He told me to go to the office of the Evacuee Trust Property Board, the department responsible for looking after the abandoned properties of non-Muslims in Pakistan, including temples and gurdwaras, and return with permission to take photographs. I did not do so as I already had a few pictures of the samadhi from one of my earlier visits.
But I continue to be baffled by the government’s policy of not allowing people to photograph some historical structures that it is in charge of.
An old man who lives in a hut behind the samadhi, within its enclosure, walked up to me and gave me a guided a tour. He told me how the entire enclosure had been encroached upon.
It had housed several refugees of Partition till the 1980s, when the government decided to take charge and renovate the structure. Only one house was permitted — that of the old man, as he was given the responsibility of guarding the building.
He told me how, in the name of renovation, a pool that was constructed along with the samadhi, was also filled with earth, becoming the courtyard upon which we now stood. The walls outside were painted, while marble was laid on the floor and on the building’s interior walls.
The samadhi stood at the centre of a hall. It was a little platform tiled with marble, one side of which bore a brief history of Ganga Ram, along with his photograph in which he wore a suit and a hat. He died in London in 1927.
A city transformed
Lahore, in the middle of the 19th century, was not the city we know today. For almost half a century it had served as the political capital of the Khalsa empire, but it was far from the provincial capital it was under the Mughals.
Its dilapidated Mughal mausoleums and remains of the vast Mughal gardens that were unkempt and encroached upon reflected a lost glory.
Under Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Lahore’s neighbouring city, Amritsar, had emerged as the economic hub of the empire. In the first comprehensive census of British India in 1881, the population of Lahore was 149,000 compared to 152,000 of Amritsar.
The city transformed under the colonial state that used it as a symbol of its imperial power. A narrative was crafted, of a city rising from the ashes of its Mughal past. After the turn of the century, Lahore became one of the largest cities of the Indian subcontinent.
It became a city of migrants. According to the 1911 census, 46.3 percent of its residents were those who were not born in the district.
Ganga Ram and Lahore
In many ways, the story of Ganga Ram is the story of Lahore, a city that he helped transform into the symbol of the colonial state. He too was a migrant who, after acquiring a degree in engineering, migrated to the city for better economic opportunities.
This is a time when the colonial state, in the aftermath of the war of 1857, was redefining itself. The British increasingly began appropriating indigenous Indian symbols of authority to present continuity between former empires of India and the new British Empire.
Architecture played a pivotal role in this depiction, and led to the emergence of the Indo- Saracenic tradition. In this architectural approach, an effort was made by the colonial state to incorporate traditional structural techniques with colonial architecture.
This was a conscious effort to depict British symbols of authority in traditional visual forms for the local populace to marvel at.
Architecture was a powerful propaganda tool at the hands of the colonial state.
Lahore, along with other major cities of British India, served as the canvas upon which this narrative was painted.
The Lahore High Court, the museum, Post Office Building, Aitchison College, the Anglican Cathedral, and National College of Arts are a few of the several examples constructed following this hybrid tradition.
In these structures, balconies, columns and watchtowers, interact with domes, chattris (canopies), arches and screens.
In Lahore, all of these iconic structures were raised by Ganga Ram. Working with the colonial state, he transformed the landscape of the city to reflect the glory of this new empire.
A new city, even more glorious than the former, had been raised from the debris of its Mughal past. Lahore had a new master and its architecture was a testimony to this fact.
In many ways, the Lahore of today is a continuation of this colonial city. It continues to serve as a symbol of the state. Its Metro Bus and now the Orange Line projects are meant to be stamps of authority.
Ganga Ram helped build this narrative. He transformed the city into a proverb that it continues to be. The Lahore of today owes much more to Ganga Ram than it would care to admit.
The article was originally published on Scroll and has been reproduced with permission.
Haroon Khalid has an academic background in anthropology from Lums. He has been travelling extensively around Pakistan, documenting historical and cultural heritage. He is the author of four books — Imagining Lahore, Walking with Nanak, In Search of Shiva and A White Trail.
The views expressed by this writer and commenters below do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.
Comments (85) Closed
Indians are traveling all over the world but cannot visit Lahore a city so close to its border.The features,culture,language,food, customs and sights are so common to both nations and tourism alone has such a phenomenal potential to bloom but sadly this is a mirage.
Thank you for this historical narrative, it is much appreciated.
Thanks for nice article.
Nice to know. thank you
Very informative article
Sir Ganga Ram symbol of modern Lahore.
Thanks for reminding us of the fabulous gift of Ganga Ram to Lahore. It is something that is benefiting the Lahore and surrounding areas every single day. Its not only the building, the funds from the trust are still making the hospital run. If it wasn't the trust, we would have changed the name.
Don't forget Gulab Devi hospital.
And the hospital by the name of Ganga Ram
There is no such rule. These old people to show their importance stop you from taking pictures. Perhaps a stern admonition to mind his own business with the added step of telling him about your high connections would have done the job.
Always a delight to read haroon khalid
Amazing. We Lahoris owe our gratitude to Sir Ganga Ram.
An excellent and informative piece again by Haroon Khalid. I always look forward to his excavations of Pakistan’s pre-partition hirory. Ganga Ram was indeed a great builder who transformed Lahore but I was expecting Haroon to also say something about his brilliant partnership with the architect, Bhai Ram Singh. They were both instrumental in the building of many of the iconic structures in Lahore that he mentions.
Very well written. We need more writing of this kind.
A man ahead of times.
It is worth mentioning that besides designing these buildings,he left a lasting legacy of Ganga Ram Hospital for the people of lahore.
An interesting peep into history. Thanks for an informative article.
interesting history
So does Karachi. It owes a lot to someone known as Daulat Ram Jhaggu Mal for the fine college which stands today as one of the finest colleges in the country. We, of course, simply know it as the D.J.Sind Government Science College. How many generations have studied here and gone out to serve the world apart from taking part in extra curricular activities including strikes against the injustices meted out to the people at large under different authoritarian regimes and the fight for restoring civilian rules under different student leaders is a thing of the past now.
Quite an interesting and informative write up.
Sir Ganga Ram, true son of Lahore.
Excellent and well researched article.
Wonder, Why is this not part of our curriculum?!
Remembering forefathers irrespective of their religion is a reflection of good character.
Brilliant. Always await your articles!
verynice
Very good and informative article. Well done
Thank you so much for such a marvelous piece of writing, Haroon.
His lasting legacy is Ganga Ram hospital for the benefit of Lahories
An excellent write up.
Amazing story !! thank your for this nugget of our history
Furthermore, he built hospitals
The original Lahori in every sense of the word. Respect!!!
If Jinnah is the father of the nation then Sir Ganga Ram is the father of Lahore...He is greatest benefactor of Lahore and it was his genius that made sure that institutions such as Ganga Ram hospital continue to function to this day from the income of the trust in a country where nothing functions.
It's a noble way to offer tributes to the philanthropists. A good work by Haroon Khalid.If you just visit places in Karachi, Hyderabad,Multan, Lahore,Rawalpindi,Peshawar,Quetta, every city has some remaining signs & building with name tablet of philanthropist. It is our duty to take care of the old buildings, archeological sites and maintain such buildings in original shape, particularly the religious sites need great care, the pilgrimage must be encouraged and let the pilgrims exchange visits between India & Pakistan. After all this is our heritage, we must remember our roots & heritage.
Sir Ganga Ram symbol of modern Lahore.
Another gem! We should take pride in, at least, our recent past. Sir Ganga Ram is a fine example.
Thank you for highlighting him.
It is the same story on this side of border.
90% oF the mumbai residents would not know David Sasoon whose philanthropy built their city.
Most of the residents of Chennai would not be aware of the Armenian Christian community or the Madras jews who laid the foundations of today's metropolis of Chennai.
I really love Haroon's writing. Very crispy still informative. And most important, he manages to be a neutral writer.
Thanks Mr. Haroon Khalid. I will recommend it to my many friends in Canada.
Impressive. We commoners know Sir Ganga Ram because of the famous government hospital in Lahore called Ganga Ram Hospital.
Very informative and knowledgeable article
Great respect for Mr Ganga Ram but what about Abdus Salam, his services in the field of science are numerous and he is the one great mind that came from Pakistan.
A Hospital named as Sir Ganga Ram Hospital and Research Center still catering to many Pakistani citizen for various illness every day.
Thank you and Gratitude. I could see the picture of Sir Ganga Ram. In Central Delhi we have big hospital by his name.
Khalid is a star! Well written.
Well described article about Sir Ganga Ram ji. Thanks
Sons of soil cant be differentiated by religion
I always look forward to Haroon Khalid's writing.
@HZZR : Sir I am from Bangalore India.My ambition is definitely to visit Lahore and Karachi. I will do it before I die.
Contributions of Sir Ganga Ram to Punjab should be taught in Pakistani schools. I wish I learned about him and his work when I was in school. He also designed and built the water supply and irrigation system for Faisalabad. If it was not for him, Faisalabad would have no agriculture
Thank you Sir Ganga Ram. We respect you for your great vision and leadership. You are our heroes in IndoPak who we should never forget. RIP dear departed sacred soul. Om Shanti Om Inshallah! Thank you for giving people of Lahore their oldest and largest hosptial Sir Ganga Ram Hospital. Your name is peaceful and your actions proved it.
Salute!
IndoPak Blood Brothers 4 Life!
Sir Ganga Ram was a man of all ages. He is also known in Delhi for building the hospital also known as Sir Ganga Ram Hospital.
Very informative article and great effort by the author to keep us connected to the past. But there was no mention of Ganga Ram Hospital and Model Town both of which were designed by Sir Ganga Ram.
Keep it up, great work. Really like your analogy "Symbol of state".
Very Nice Article. Sir Ganga Ram Hospital in Delhi is still today the leading hospital in Delhi where even Priyanka Gandhi's children were born. Sonia Gandhi also prefers this hospital for top class care and faculty.
Pakistan needs to improve upon care of pre-partition buildings, and take pride for the contribution by non-Muslims in it's development .
Its altogether different experience to read Haroon's articles. The description takes you to the past. Thanks Haroon. Keep on writing Dear !
Sir Ganga Ram was one of the two great engineers we had during colonial times, the other one being sir M. Visvesvaraya.
I came into this world in Sir Ganga Ram hospital so naturally I feel I have some kind of affiliation with this great man. Someone in the comments below mentioned that the hospital is still run by the funds generated by Sir Ganga Ram Trust. I have the utmost respect for the man. Thank you to the writer and Dawn for publishing this article. I do not live in Pakistan anymore but this article has brought back some golden memories of my childhood and of course Lor lor aye!
There is a Gangaram's Bookshop in Bangalore. I wonder if it belongs to his family.
Great article.
very positive article.....spreading love.......and love from india as well..........
@R S Chakravarti, most probably not.
Respect from Karachi to Sir Ganga Ram for his noble work.
Informative but short. You should have shed some light on his family/education and how he gained interest in buildings/architecture.
This despite the fact that this fine man primarily saw himself as a son of soil in service of humanity. Why need to point out "Hindu philanthropist" instead of just philanthropist? A religious identity seems like a pre-requisite for any good work. Sad reflection of the times we live in.
Articles like this show the significant contributions of all the communities. Karachi owes a lot to engineer and architect JAMES STRACHAN, who designed the first drainage system, and many fine buildings, including Mereweather Tower, Empress Market, Denso Hall, and the Edulji Dinshaw Dispensary. Like all the fine structures, the names associated with them must live on. This is all part of the country's heritage.
@Sodomite: Sir Ganga Ram Hospital in Delhi was inaugurated by Nehru. Superbly administered.
Great and informative article it is worth reading with sheer interest. Lahore was also center of business & education before partition. Sir Ganga Ram left no stone unturned to get construct historical buildings. Due to this the service of sir ganga cannot be ruled. It is very sad that many historical places were partially impaired while completing different development works but the historical places are assets of public and it may be kept save otherwise history shall not forgive the rulers.
@Sam good one
@shivam I agree with you
We are indians to very like to visit to pakistan but ho gives visa to us we are common people like your side but both side government treat tourist like enemy after 70 years of independence i really not understand
Every time I go to Delhi, I had walked past Sir Ganga Ram Hospital without knowing anything about him. Today I know a lot about that great soul. I am really thankful to DAWN for periodically bringing out such informative articles.,
Good knowledgeable article.Thank you
@HZZR same is true for Pakistanis who can't even go for dinner in Amritsar or go to the great city of Ghalib. Shame on the politicians who divided the remains of Great Indus River civilization:(
I can bet that not even a single punjab text book acknowledges the contribution of Ganga Ram Sahib.
Nice article Haroon.Well done.Being Lahori I have to appreciate you. How to reach to you via email?
Haroon Khalid, Thank You for ALL yur articles.
Sir Ganga Ram was the mind behind the canal system of Punjab. One para should have been included about his this aspect and also the charity works by him which till date continue.
Excellent high light about a gentleman. Well done Haroon.
will luv to visit this place, if Pakistan Permit us Tourist visa.
Thanks to the writer and DAWN for reproducing the revealing article. A very commendable job indeed.
Ganga Ram also designed and build buildings in indian punjab like Khalsa College in Amritsar, Moti Mahal Palace in patiala. We have many more similarities to be proud rather than animosity.