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Inside a Goan kitchen in Karachi

A tale of two seaports, one with a particular flavour and the other which boasts a multicultural culinary palate
Updated 12 Oct, 2017


The Goan community in Karachi might have shrunk but before you enter their homes, there’s always a whiff of spicy and tangy seafood at their doorstep — sharp aromas titillating the taste buds. As it turns out, cooking Goan food is a labour of love.

“I make my own masalas,” says Rita Lobo, in her three-room apartment in Saddar. At 79, she continues to cook for her family and grandchildren. “I used to grind the masalas on the grinding stone,” she says excitedly with her eyes sparkling. “I don’t do that anymore. I’m old! What to do?”

Today she employs domestic help for the arduous task of grinding the concoction of spices — a crucial practice in Goanese cooking.

Rita Lobo makes prawn coconut curry for her grandchildren — Photo by the author
Rita Lobo makes prawn coconut curry for her grandchildren — Photo by the author

Goans arrived in Karachi much before Partition or even the Raj. Older generation Goanese in Karachi date it to the late 19th century after the East India Company annexed Sindh. Goa at the time was ruled by the Portuguese, and many Goans saw greener pastures in the small, nondescript town of Karachi. The British were in search for soldiers for their army and educated professionals for civilian tasks as they went about consolidating their rule over Sindh.

Although the British left in 1947, the Goan heritage became part and parcel of Karachi. And as many Goanese elders relate, the Goan culinary palette was intrinsic to the bustling seaport that Karachi had become. Even in the fledgling republic, variety became the spice of life in Karachi. With seafood their first love, Goanese were adding to the palate of indigenous Karachiities — Sindhi fisherfolk — who also had their unique flavours and recipes.

Rita Lobo uses tamarind in her curries, an essential ingredient in Goan cooking — Photo by the author
Rita Lobo uses tamarind in her curries, an essential ingredient in Goan cooking — Photo by the author

But as time passed, Goan food disappeared from the public sphere. The largest Goan eatery in the city, Pereira Bakery, shut down too. Relations between Pakistan and India soured, and cross-border trade became more difficult. Not only did the cost of spices and condiments increase, their availability was now a major concern. As a result, Goan food left the street and went inside homes.

Read more: This restaurant at the Pakistan-India border puts friendship first

Perhaps it is the rise and fall of Goan food that anybody asking around for authentic Goanese cuisine is awarded a spicy welcome and a fattening meal.

“She’s excited to see you,” says a neighbour. The ‘she’ in question is 72-year-old Cecelia Fernandes who lives in Garden East. Even at her advanced age, she is in charge of cooking for her family. Originally from Manora Island, she learned to cook from her mother-in-law, a Goan. After developing her own “spice sense” she continues to use it today with perfection.

My afternoon lunch with Lawrence D'souza (below) and his family over fried fish and prawn coconut curry — Photo by the author
My afternoon lunch with Lawrence D'souza (below) and his family over fried fish and prawn coconut curry — Photo by the author

“When she cooks, we have to make sure all the ingredients are available otherwise she will throw a fuss,” relates her daughter Diana.

For example, Lobo cannot do without coconut in her curries. “I can never compromise on coconut,” she says with a tone of finality. And it is understandable, since the drupe along with tamarind and jaggery is an essential component of Goan cuisine. Without coconut, the family will have to go hungry since she won’t cook. Or they’ll have to buy packaged masalas and cook themselves.

The use of ingredients has changed over time, however.

“Coconut is expensive these days.” says Fernandes, as a matter of fact. While Lobo uses spices available at Empress Market, Fernandes makes do with Indian Goan ingredients that are acquired through friends making a pilgrimage to the Indian state of Goa. “I like to use their tamarind and dark-brown jaggery (gurr) because it adds more flavour.”

In her younger years, she would cook Goan curries daily. That practice has changed due to the availability of time. “Nowadays we don’t have the time for cooking Goanese dishes,” adds Diana. “We use branded recipe mix and masalas, and cook qorma, biryani or whatever is available.” Preparing sorpotel (meat stew), vindaloo (spiced curry) or even sannas (rice cakes) mostly on special occasions is indicative of this change.

Lawrence D'souza blends the masalas in a blender to save time — Photo by the author
Lawrence D'souza blends the masalas in a blender to save time — Photo by the author

“It’s all fast-forward now,” adds Lawrence D’Souza over the whir of the blender whose spicy contents are to be used for lunch of prawn coconut curry and rice with fried fish for his family. In 30 minutes of dicing, spicing, blending, cooking, caking and frying, he is done and ready to relax after his 12-hour shift at the Pakistan Steel Mills.

Time dictates how Lobo, D’Souza and Fernandes are allowed to add inherent value to their curries but shifting palates are also significant in third generation Pakistani Goans. Every weekend, Rita, her children and grandchildren collect at her apartment for lunch or dinner.

“I cook biryani and kebabs,” says Rita.

“Why don’t you cook Goan dishes?”

“The children and the young lot prefer Pakistani dishes.”

Does that mean that Goan cuisine in Pakistan has become localised? And if so, to what extent?

Lawrence D'Souza fries the earlier prepared fish as part of the afternoon lunch — Photo by the author
Lawrence D'Souza fries the earlier prepared fish as part of the afternoon lunch — Photo by the author

With much of the Goan community emigrating, there is an element of loss to the city’s potpourri of unique dishes available in our public spaces which were once part of Karachi’s colonial past. Ali Raza Abidi, owner of the Biryani of Seas (BOTS) at Old Clifton nods in agreement.

“Their loss of space hasn’t enabled the community to put itself out there. But if anyone wanted to open a specific Goanese-styled restaurant it would definitely sell to a certain clientele. If a Lebanese restaurant can do well, why can’t this one?”

Over lunch, I ask Lawrence on his thoughts about this idea. He doesn’t sound too excited. “If someone did begin such a restaurant, people wouldn’t buy. They would say, a Christian is preparing this food.”

Rita Lobo takes a break to cool down from the heat of the kitchen — Photo by the author
Rita Lobo takes a break to cool down from the heat of the kitchen — Photo by the author

BOTS intr­od­u­ced four specific Goanese dishes to their menu five years back. “A Goan lady from Cantt found us on the SWOT page and she recommended adding Goan dishes to the menu, since there is a significant Christian (Goan) population living near BOTS.”

The duo collaborated and she taught the cook with a side helping from Youtube videos. Ali Raza Abidi introduced it to the menu at both branches of the restaurant. The branch at Clifton receives more orders for the Goan dishes compared to the one at Mehmoodabad where the residents are more familiar with Delhi cuisine. More specifically, at the Clifton branch, crab curry sells more.

Meanwhile, Belinda Fonseca is a third-generation Pakistani-Goan and runs a small catering business for Goanese cuisine from her residence in Frere Town, Cantt. “Older Muslims and Parsis who are more familiar with authentic Goan flavours buy the dishes on my menu,” she says with enthusiasm.

Rita Lobo prepares fried prawns with authentic Goan flavours — Photo by the author
Rita Lobo prepares fried prawns with authentic Goan flavours — Photo by the author

They are also her repetitive customers who at times crave Goan sweets and spicy-coconut curries. “Many of them look back at the time when Goan families would send food over to their neighbours. It has a nostalgic element to it.”

The food industry is competitive and constantly vies for the individual’s taste buds. But there does lie a niche to reintroduce the explosive flavours of Goan dishes.

Abidi adds: “If a Goan restaurant were to open, it would re-energise the locality, maybe even become a hallmark of the area.”

And maybe through their interaction, food can become an enabler to jumpstart conversations about each “other”.

Header image features the author's photo of coconut fish curry with sannas (rice cakes).

The author tweets @_basilandrews.


Originally published in Dawn, EOS, October 8th, 2017

Comments

Bored Oct 12, 2017 11:05am
If only Pakistanis could get a chance to taste Sorpotel, Cafreal Chicken & Vindaloo too
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Maria SaLIM Oct 12, 2017 11:40am
Thank you for sharing such valuable insight of Goan Community in Karachi. It is so saddening that diversity which is very essential for a society to develop and flourish , from it tolerance and harmony have vanished and as a result it has all become stagnant. Very unfortunate that Islam which promotes nothing but peace and tolerance for all humanity is so misinterpreted and practiced.
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charlie Oct 12, 2017 11:53am
Best people, parsis and goan christians, loving and friendly always!
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Deepu Oct 12, 2017 12:12pm
This tells the tale that no minorities are prospering in Pakistan , not even their cuisines !
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CALCUTTA MAN Oct 12, 2017 12:14pm
"And it is understandable, since the drupe along with tamarind and jaggery is an essential component of Goan cuisine. " I have lots of Goan friends and am a regular guest at their table, but never have I found coconuts and tamarind in their food...those are more in keeping with cuisine from Kerala and Tamil Nadu
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Ashwin Oct 12, 2017 12:55pm
Goans are shrinking, Parsis shrinking, Sikhs shrinking, Hindus shrinking......
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Saad Oct 12, 2017 01:03pm
Heritage! Thanks for sharing information on this wonderful community and their delights
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Neil Oct 12, 2017 01:06pm
Goanese is an incorrect usage for Goans.
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mumtaz shah Oct 12, 2017 01:40pm
lovely, I miss my days in Karachi With my Goan friends in Sadar, great people
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Samir Shinde Oct 12, 2017 02:21pm
@CALCUTTA MAN You have no idea of Goan Cuisine if you say that there is no coconut in their food. I winder what goan freinds have been inviting you.
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Irfan Husain Oct 12, 2017 02:46pm
Thank you, Basil. Such a painful reminder of how we are losing our rich tapestry of different cultures and cuisines.
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Nitin Oct 12, 2017 04:51pm
Goan cuisine has always been great and a perfect treat to the tastebuds. Seafood along with traditional sweets are the best picks.Hope the tensions subside between both the countries and camaraderie prevail.
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ga Oct 12, 2017 05:09pm
I think the Goan community is underestimateting the young professional in Pakistan who would be more than willing to try Goan cuisine. Once people crave it then it wouldn't matter who is preparing it. But the Goans have to take the first step.
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Ed Oct 12, 2017 05:26pm
The few Goanese dishes that I have tried are really good. Seafood and coconut feature heavily - baked goodies are also scrumptious. Two thumbs up to the writer for this one.
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R.J. ALVA (MangAlore) Oct 12, 2017 05:30pm
Very nice too A Goans in Karachi love from people Goa & Manglorean India
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Vk Oct 12, 2017 05:37pm
So much has been lost in Pakistan - the ethinic food, the dress, the religious minorities, the diversity , basic human values and humanity itself !!
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dabangg Oct 12, 2017 06:22pm
Very interesting read. We have similar cuisine to Goans. Yes coconut is a must in most dishes. Similar to Kerela.
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t Oct 12, 2017 06:54pm
former test
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Andleeb NAfees Oct 12, 2017 07:35pm
they are loving people and we have to respect each other, i love to eat such food, and in the last thank you for such information thank you
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Monz Oct 12, 2017 07:56pm
great article! Can we get contacts of these people somehow, so we can order from them for example Belinda Fonseca?
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Uma Oct 12, 2017 08:46pm
@Bored. I have, it's an acquired taste. Didn't like it.
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Annie Monteiro Oct 12, 2017 10:29pm
Nice article was happy to know Goans exist in Pakistan
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Annie Monteiro Oct 12, 2017 10:31pm
Nice article was happy to know goans exist in Pakistan
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a Oct 12, 2017 11:35pm
How did the Goan community actually end up in Karachi ? That would be very interesting to read !
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Anonymous Oct 13, 2017 12:46am
@Irfan Husain so agree with you. I think culture, cuisine, history, and heritage have suffered the most in the rivalry between nations and religions. What we could be, and what we are! Our responsibility is to create a better future through our children.
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Anonymous Oct 13, 2017 12:48am
@Vk Can you say camaraderie instead of religious minorities? religious minority sounds like they're special. I don't think they want to be special, they want to feel included, and that can happen only if you consider them equal. I hope you agree
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Anonymous Oct 13, 2017 12:50am
@Deepu just like minorities in many Indian states can't eat their more preferred meat even if they want to. It's not only in Pakistan, our subcontinent is not very good and generous about 'others'. (FYI, I am Indian)
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Majnu Oct 13, 2017 01:52am
Goans in Karachi...OMG...How did you guys leave them?
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MUHAMMAD Oct 13, 2017 05:28am
@ga agreed with u I doubt anyone would say that they wont eat it because its prepared by a Christian, there are restaurants in Karachi run by non muslims and no one cares. The only thing to take care is to use halal items and that is something not to worry about as its obvious that ingredients will be halal. Karachi and Pakistan in recent years have seen a major resurgence when it comes to cuisines . If ppl can go for Chinese, Mediterranean and even parsi food then for sure goan cuisine can work but for this goan community will need to take the first step.
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kerala Oct 13, 2017 07:02am
She made a typical kerala cuisine -not so Goan one.
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Lala Oct 13, 2017 08:09am
It's Goan not Goanese....
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mohsin Oct 13, 2017 10:52am
Amazing and wonderful people, the Goanese.
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RHS Oct 13, 2017 11:08am
Great article. except for the part where Christians cooking would impact business. We who grew up in Karachi are into good food and not into the religion of who cooked it. The people who are referred to as "Goans" here were and are our good friends. Their "Anda Grapy" and especially Shrimp dishes were my favorites. Miss those old days of tolerance and harmony.
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Clinton fernandez Oct 13, 2017 11:20am
So nice to read an article about the Goan community that contributed greatly Pakistan and has so much to offer. Food brings people together, and creates great moments for meaningful exchanges and sharing. Perhaps the Goan community will reinvent itself and make its presence felt once again. There are Italian, French and other cuisines for people to savour. Why not a Goan restaurant? If it's done right, it will be a great addition to Karachi's culinary scene and would give the community a boost. My mum got nostalgic reading this article!
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T.G. Venkatnarayanan Oct 13, 2017 01:43pm
How long the people of Pakistan live in isolation - I mean the common people? Well-educated and somewhat better placed have gone to greener pastures; and the residual population know not the civilisation of the world; leave aside culinary art or for that matter its tast! It is high time the people of Pakistan are given proper education and let not the country be shut within the four walls of prejudice, falsehood, falsehood and jingoism.
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samuel Oct 14, 2017 12:15pm
Very nice, I love to eat Goannian Food...But no place to find...
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zorro Oct 14, 2017 01:38pm
I agree. Though religion is an integral part of nearly every human being's life, it has become a scourge, pitting one human against another, purely on the basis of their beliefs. Throw the 'religion' factor out of a relationship, and this world would be the most wonderful place to live in! You know who is responsible for all the trouble in the world; it is these self-professed religious leaders that every community has among it's classes. Unfortunately, we are such a gullible lot, that in spite of the most modern education in the world today's world, we have still imbued the qualities of cave-men!
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zorro Oct 14, 2017 01:44pm
@T.G. Venkatnarayanan - well said, Sir! (rumbo nalla)!!!
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Reggie dsouza Oct 14, 2017 02:48pm
@CALCUTTA MAN you have no idea of Goan cuisine . Take this from a Goan your definition of Goan cuisine is pathetic . Please visit an authentic Goan and taste the food there . We use a blend of spices , coconut milk , diced coconut and tamarind. You must be confused between manglorean and Goan
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MSR Oct 14, 2017 05:08pm
@T.G. Venkatnarayanan i thnk your perception about pakistan os quite misleading probably due to ur own media sources. Pakistanis are not evil nor are we so narrow midned that we dont have any basic civic sense towards non muslims esp the ppl of karachi. I am a karachiite and let me assure u that karachi is one of the most multi ethnic city of entire south asia. we have ppl froma ll over the sub continent (biharis, bengalis, UP, MP, Andhra, Maharashtra, Karnatak, Punjabis, Sindhis, Kashmir, Balochis, Delhi walas, rajasthanis, afghans, goan christians, parsis, sindhi and gujarati hindus, sikhs, bahais etc.) and well all live and work together. I have so many non muslim friends in karachi and no one cares about that fact. I recomment u to visit pakistan esp karachi to see the reality
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Al Oct 15, 2017 04:50am
@a As the article claimed: they arrived much before Pakistan was created
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