Kari Dybsjord Rostad celebrated her birthday 8, 000 metres high on top of the world’s 12th highest mountain on July 17. A business consultant back home, Ms Rostad became the first Norwegian woman to reach the top of Broad Peak after acclimatizing for a month on the 8,057 metre-high mountain. It was a 12-hour journey to the top from camp III at roughly 7,000 metres. She had to descend after just 15 minutes at the top as base camp warned her of the weather deteriorating. However, she says, the 15 minutes at the top during which she took in the view from such a height felt like eternity. She says she climbs mountains because it makes her feel alive.

Dawn caught up with her to talk about her adventures climbing mountains.

Q: What was going through your mind as you climbed Broad Peak as this was your first attempt on a mountain that stands more than 8,000 metres?

A: Broad Peak is an underrated mountain. Standing at its foot, I felt like my preparations were not enough. It makes you feel so small, it is intimidating. I gave myself little chances of success since the weather conditions were unfavourable. It took two failed attempts and had almost given up hope before we decided to give it another try. It snowed throughout the day we launched the summit push. It was not easy negotiating in knee deep snow combined with below zero temperature. Still, I reached the top in the first attempt and I feel so lucky because it had taken some climbers in our expedition a few years to finally reach the top of Broad Peak.

Q: What are the risks one faces at more than 7,500 metres?

A: The lack of oxygen causes fatigue and frost bite. The air is so thin that oxygen barely reaches all your body parts like your finger tips and toes which increases the risk of frost bite. The body struggles to keep the more essential organs functioning and alive.

Other than that, with the altering climate, the risks of avalanches and rocks falling have increased, especially during the day in the sunlight. This is why most teams decide to pack up and leave, because they think there are so many dangers.

Q: Which mountain do you want to climb next?

A: [My family was worried about me coming to Pakistan] but supported me nonetheless and were happy when I climbed to the top of Broad Peak. I had not imagined such breathtaking views. I intend to return to Pakistan to climb the Gasherbrums and K2 someday, of course after more negotiations with my family about fulfilling my dream.

Published in Dawn, August 10th, 2017

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