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Feminist restaurant gives migrants a starter in Britain

October 01, 2015
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru prepares food in the kitchen at Mazi Mas. ─ AFP
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru prepares food in the kitchen at Mazi Mas. ─ AFP
"Marlith's ceviche", "Roberta's passion fruit mousse" and "Ezgi's borek" ─ spinach, feta, and filo pastry ─ are some of the items on the menu. ─ AFP
"Marlith's ceviche", "Roberta's passion fruit mousse" and "Ezgi's borek" ─ spinach, feta, and filo pastry ─ are some of the items on the menu. ─ AFP
Mara Klein, the German manager of the Mazi Mas restaurant, poses for a photograph outside the kitchen of the restaurant in Kennington, south London. ─ AFP
Mara Klein, the German manager of the Mazi Mas restaurant, poses for a photograph outside the kitchen of the restaurant in Kennington, south London. ─ AFP
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru prepares food in the kitchen at the Mazi Mas restaurant. ─ AFP
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru prepares food in the kitchen at the Mazi Mas restaurant. ─ AFP
Roberta Siao from Brazil, poses for a photograph in the kitchen at Mazi Mas. ─ AFP
Roberta Siao from Brazil, poses for a photograph in the kitchen at Mazi Mas. ─ AFP
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru (L), and Roberta Siao from Brazil, prepare food in the kitchen at Mazi Mas restaurant. ─ AFP
Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila from Peru (L), and Roberta Siao from Brazil, prepare food in the kitchen at Mazi Mas restaurant. ─ AFP
In a feminist restaurant housed in a theatre, Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila and Roberta Siao work with five other immigrant female chefs to bring a taste of their homelands to Londoners. ─ AFP
In a feminist restaurant housed in a theatre, Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila and Roberta Siao work with five other immigrant female chefs to bring a taste of their homelands to Londoners. ─ AFP
The "pop-up restaurant" takes its name from the traditional Greek welcome "Elate na fate mazi mas", which means "Come eat with us". ─ AFP
The "pop-up restaurant" takes its name from the traditional Greek welcome "Elate na fate mazi mas", which means "Come eat with us". ─ AFP

LONDON: In a feminist restaurant housed in a theatre, seven immigrant female chefs are bringing a taste of their homelands to Londoners, whilst earning themselves a stake in British society.

"We want to give power to the invisible women around the world," said Roberta Siao, the 43-year-old Brazilian who runs the kitchen at Mazi Mas, as she worked away on preparing her passion fruit speciality.

The restaurant is housed in the Ovalhouse theatre, directly opposite the Hobbs Gates entrance to The Oval, south London's famous cricket ground.

She told AFP that without contacts or a network of friends, she could not find a job despite her qualifications and years of experience working at the Central Bank of Brazil. After several years spent bringing up her son, meeting the creator of Mazi Mas changed her fortunes.

"Mazi Mas was the bridge that really took me from being completely isolated to put me in the world of work and people and opportunity," she said.

"Marlith's ceviche", "Roberta's passion fruit mousse" and "Ezgi's borek" ─ spinach, feta, and filo pastry ─ are some of the items on the menu.

The house style is the cuisine of Iran, Ethiopia, Brazil, Peru, Nicaragua, Senegal and Turkey, which customers can try out from Tuesday to Saturday.

The "pop-up restaurant" ─ so-called because it has shifted venue since its launch in 2012 ─ takes its name from the traditional Greek welcome "Elate na fate mazi mas", which means "Come eat with us".

Its creator Nikandre Kopcke grew up in New York and took her inspiration from her Greek nanny, whose dream of running her own bakery was squashed by her traditionalist husband.

Platform for migrants

Mazi Mas started out in another theatre in Hackney, a poor-turned-hip district north-east of the city centre, and also provided catering for private soirées, notably at the Tate Modern gallery.

It has been at the Ovalhouse since March on an arrangement that will keep it there till at least the end of the year.

The restaurant pays no rent to the theatre, only its gas, water and electricity bills.

Mara Klein, the 27-year-old German responsible for developing the enterprise, said it was a "very good partnership" for both sides because the restaurant's customers buy their drinks at the Ovalhouse bar.

The theatre used to be an important meeting place for political activists and is looking to revive its position as a busy hub.

The homelessness charity Emmaus UK provides the donated tables and chairs, which customers can purchase at the end of each month.

Due in part to these cost-cutting arrangements, the part-time chefs earn a wage of £9.50 an hour, as opposed to the £6.50 paid to those on the national minimum wage.

"Mazi Mas gives us the chance to promote our own cuisine and culture," said Marlith Tenazoa Del Aguila, speaking in Spanish.

For several years the flamboyant 50-something ran her own restaurant-cum-disco on a beach in Peru, but struggled to find work in Britain with her limited grasp of English.

For Ethiopian Azeb Woldemichael, working alongside her, the restaurant has brought her "self-confidence". She feels the experience has taken her one step closer to her dream of opening her own cafe.

"We provide employment opportunities for migrant and refugee women who have the dream of opening their own business but who don't have the platform, the network, the connections or just the confidence to take that step," Klein told AFP.

Mazi Mas is a "business incubator", she said.

Berlin, Lyon, Leeds

Klein said the restaurant also stands for the rights of immigrants, recognising their existence and the benefits they can bring to British society.

One regular diner, Laura Harrison, 24, said she was drawn to the "real sense of community around the food". "The cause behind it all is amazing," she said.

David Crabtree, a brain consultant eating at Mazi Mas for the first time, said: "My wife used to take me for dates in strange places and she brought me here. The food is absolutely excellent, it's obviously prepared with love and the atmosphere is very good."

The restaurant is full most nights and a second restaurant should open in London's trendy Shoreditch district at the start of next year, before another, permanent outlet, in the middle of 2016.

Some 40 would-be chefs are on the London waiting list.

A Mazi Mas has opened in Sydney, and operates exclusively with female asylum seekers as chefs.

Plans to open outlets in Berlin, Lyon in France and Leeds in northern England are already under way, said Klein.

"There should be a Mazi Mas in every borough of London and all over the world, really," she said.