|
|
|
The picturesque valleys
About 365km from Peshawar, Chitral forms Pakistan’s northwestern border with Afghanistan, and is home to the precipitous mountains of the Hindukush. This range is different from the Himalayas and Karakorams, and since there are no 8,000-metre high peaks here, it is not as well known. However, Tirich Mir at 7,708m and its accompanying peaks, Noshaq (7,492m), Istoro Nal (7,403m) and Socraghrar (7,738)m command respect.
Alexander the Great’s troops had to battle through the snow on their passage from Afghanistan to Pakistan, and called the Hindu Kush “Parapamisus” meaning mountains over which no eagle can fly. Additionally, Tartar hordes passed through here, notably Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, and a part of the Silk Road wound through the Baroghil Pass in Upper Chitral. Nonetheless, Chitralis have been mostly left alone in their valley for centuries, and their origins remain shrouded in mystery. Present day Chitralis are mostly Muslims, but in the south of Chitral there are three valleys inhabited by the Kafir Kalash, an animistic tribe that has not been converted to Islam.
Chitral has been traditionally, and except for a brief spell uninterruptedly, ruled by the Mehtars who claim as ancestors the Tartar ruling family of Tamerlane. However, in the late 19th century the British established a garrison in Chitral, as at that time it was thought that there existed easy passage from Russia to British India. When that proved unfounded, the British lost interest in Chitral and the Mehtars were left to govern as they wished until the late 1960’s. Finally in 1974, Chitral was annexed by Pakistan, and the Mehtar’s rule came to a rather ignominious end. The beauty of Chitral lies as much in its rustic, mountainous terrain, as in its warm hearted and friendly inhabitants.
Kafir-Kalash tribe
One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys — the home of the Kafir-Kalash or “Wearers of the Black Robe,” a primitive Pagan tribe. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery. A legend has it that some soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled down in Chitral and the present Kafir-Kalash are their offsprings.
The 3,000 strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valleys of Birir, Bumburet and Ramur in the south. Bumburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40kms from Chitral and is connected by a road on which you can travel by a jeep. Briri is almost 34km from Chitral and is connected by a road on which you can easily travel by road. Birir, 34kms away, is accessible by a steep road. Rambus is 32kms from Chitral. You can travel by jeep upto Ayun and the remaining 16kms have to be travelled on foot.
The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woolen black material studded with cowry shells, buttons and crowned with a large coloured feather. The Kalash are gay people and love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (May 14 and 15) springs, Phool (September 20-25) and Chowas (December 18 to 21). Foreign tourists require special permits to visit the Kalash valley. The Deputy Commissioner, Chitral, issues permits free of cost.
Garam Chasma
(Hot springs)
It is situated at an elevation of 1,859 metres, 45km northwest of Chitral, at a 3-hour distance by jeep. This unspoiled enchanting valley of Orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists, Hammans (public baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs5.00 per person.
Birmogalasht
Worth visiting is the fairy-tale summer palace of the ex-ruler perched at a height of 2,743 metres. It offers awe-inspiring view of Tirich Mir and panoramic vistas of valleys below. The fort can be reached on foot only.
Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating as far back as the sixth century BC. At first it was a training game for cavalry units for the King’s guards or other elite troops. To the war-like tribesmen who played polo with as many as 100 players to a side it was a miniature battle.
Tirich Mir
The Tirich Valley is populated with several small villages, separated by groves of apricot trees. The valley is very fertile, and the resulting verdant floor is in breathtaking contrast to the orange and yellow apricots, specially in the late summer. After driving to Uthal, trek across Zani pass to Shagram village. At the crest of Zani pass, there are excellent views of the Hindu-Kush and Hindu Raj ranges, and the colour contrasts of the two are readily discernible. Trekking through the villages of Atak and Bandak, one will arrive at Shogor, at the foot of the Tirich Glacier. From here track onto the lower Tirich Glacier. Return in two days on the same route to Shagrans, from where one can drive back to Chitral.
Shandur Pass
You can drive by jeep through some of the remotest mountain villages to Shandur Pass 12,000 feet. Spend some time at the pass and stop bye at some villages, later drive back to Chitral.
SWAT
The lush green valley of Swat, with its rushing torrents, icy-cold lakes, fruit-laden orchards and flower decked slopes is ideal for holiday makers who would like to relax.
It has a rich historical past, too. This is the “Udayana” (The garden) of the ancient Hindu epics, where they fought and won some of the major battles before crossing over to the plains now part of Pakistan. This is “the valley of the hanging chains” described by the famous Chinese pilgrim-chronicles, Huain Tsang and Fa-Hawn, in the fifth and sixth centuries.
Swat was once the cradle of all Buddhist schools of thought — little vehicle, great vehicle and the Esoteric sects — where once 1,400 monasteries flourished. It was the home of the famous Gandhara School of Sculpture which was an expression of Graeco-Roman form in the local Buddhist tradition.
Swat was also the historical land where the Muslim conquerors, Mahmud of Ghazni, Babur and Akbar fought their battles before the conquest of the sub-continent.
The ruins of great Buddhist stupas, monasteries and statues are found all over Swat. The valley of Swat sprawls over 10,360 sq km at an elevation of 975.36m. The normal temperature is 21°C maximum and minimum 7.22°C. The tourist season continues throughout the year.
Saidu Sharif
Headquarter of Swat, Saidu Sharif, houses the Swat Museum which contains one of the finest collections of Ghandhara art in the world.
Mingora
Mingora, 3.21km from Saidu Sharif, has yielded magnificent pieces of Buddhist sculpture and the ruins of great stupas. Other spots worth visiting are Marghzar, 12.87km from Saidu Sharif, famous for its Sufaid Mahal the white marble palace of the former wali (ruler) of Swat; Kabal, 16km from Saidu Sharif, with its excellent golf course; Madyan, 55km from Saidu Sharif; Bahrain, and Kalam. Malam Jabba, at 2,652 metres above sea level and 39km north-west of Saidu Sharif, is being developed as a ski cum summer resort.
Angling
The hatchery at Madyan stocks the Swat River with trout. The angling season opens from April.
What to buy
Swat is famous for its embroidered table cloth, ladies shawls, table mats, gold-threaded purses and caps, wood work and honey.
How to get there
Swat is linked by road and air with Islamabad/ Rawalpindi and by road with Peshawar. Cars from Rawalpindi and Peshawar charge Rs 5 per mile plus Rs 100 for overnight halt. PTDC runs air-conditioned coach services twice a week between Saidu Shariff and Peshawar. The fare is Rs110. There are moderately priced hotels, motels and rest houses to stay.
Malam Jabba — adventure at its peak
Situated at 8,700 feet above sea level, Malam Jabba ski resort stands on top of a mountain of the Hindukush range, north-east of Saidu-Shariff surrounded by the mighty Karakoram and stunning black mountains, Malam Jabba is more than just a ski resort. It is a holiday resort that caters to all interests and is also home to the remains of ancient civilizations.
Amidst its natural beauty and imprints of Gandhara civilization, lie the wonders of modern tourist facilities such as 52 room motel, 2 skiing platforms, roller/ice skating rinks, restaurant offering both local and international cuisine, telephone facility, snow clearing equipment etc.
|
|
|
|
