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Travel: Changing colours of Leepa valley
When autumn sets in the Leepa vale, leaves fall off the trees and snowfall begins. The changing colours of the valley are worth seeing. The most fascinating valley of Azad Kashmir, Leepa is situated towards the east of capital Muzaffarabad at a distance of 95km.
A narrow metalled road along the right bank of River Jehlum leads to Reshian, and along the way one passes Ghari Dupatta, Dhanni Baqalan, Hattian Bala, Neili and Sain Bagh. The changing hues of the rushing Jehlum, with some suspension bridges built over it, presents an enchanting panorama all along the route. Lofty mountains looking over swaying golden-coloured rice crop are worth watching.
From Reshian, the gateway to enter the valley, there are three routes that lead to Leepa valley. The zigzag, Defence road reaches the valley at Hanjna, via Barthwar Galli and Beli camp. According to the locals, there are 72 U-turns on the road, testing the skills of most drivers. Usually military and forest vehicles ply on this road. One has to cover a distance of 16km over a stony path (which can more suitably be called a footpath) to enter the valley via Panjal Gali, which is approximately 10,000 ft high. This second way is a shortcut to Leepa’s important commercial centre, Kappa Gali. The third route passes through Dao Khan, Sher Gali, and enters the valley at Muji, where Indian military posts face the village.
All the three passages are blocked in winter due to heavy snowfall and the inhabitants have to store eatables and other items of daily use in large quantities to see them through the season. To my surprise, an old man of the village informed me, “We are unable to bury the corpse if anyone unfortunately dies in winter. We have to wait about four months for funeral, after the snow has melted”.
Leepa Valley consists of about 25 villages, on steep slopes, of lush green hills, starting from Channian and ending at Lubgran. Among the important and mentionable villages of Leepa Vale are Yadoor, Munda Kali, Kali Mandal, Margala, Noor-kot, Gai-kot, Khairwarha, Kieserkot, Hanjna, Leepa, Saidpura, Talwari, Khairati Bagh, Kappa Gali, Kuntarian, Ghat Kari, Chakmuqam, Bajil Dhar, and Batlian etc.
Ghaipura with a population of 2,000 people is the largest. It is situated right under the Indian military posts of Vanjal and Siri, and is the worst hit in case Indians open fire, which they often do, on the civilian population.
“We cultivate our land at night in full darkness whenever Indians fire upon us with an aim to kill us.” A Kashmiri young man disclosed. Another man, Raja Arshad said: “Not a day passes without listening to the sound of firing, sometime, the Indians start firing without provocation.”
These unarmed people are practically under the canons of an unreliable enemy who needs no provocation to open fire.
The urs of Sain Mutha Baji, held every year between November 11-16, is the sole social activity in the valley. These religious people speak Kashmiri and Hindkoh languages, however, Urdu is easily understood. The population of the valley is almost 35,000, and face the problems of unemployment, poverty, power shortage (there is only one power generation unit at Channian) and malnutrition as the rest of the country.
Visitors can find two comfortable rest houses situated at picturesque locations, one at Dao-Khan and the other at Channian. Awami Chanar Hotel is also well maintained and proves to be a comfy resort for tourists. However, these lodges are insufficient to meet the needs of the growing number of travellers. A crystal clear and swiftly flowing stream called Nullah Qazi Nag, adds to the beauty of the valley. This Nullah emerges from Occupied Kashmir and runs through this valley. On the other side of the LoC, lies Kupwara district of the Kashmir valley. Tinkling waterfalls, lush green pastures, thick woods, snow-clad majestic Shamsa Bari, the highest mountain of the valley are an inexhaustible source of delight to the tourists.
Rice and maize fields, at the time of harvest add to the beauty of the valley. Multistoried, peculiar Kashmiri wooden houses with their roofs made of shining sheets of tin, surrounded by apple, walnut, fig, pear and plum trees add to the beauty of the valley. Leepa valley is famous for its delicious, white honey. Rain results in immense growth of vegetation and forestation so thick that beams of light hardly make their way to the forest floor.
The bottom line is that Leepa Valley offers an unending variety of scenic, spectacular beauty to enjoy and one is left with lasting memories of the glorious scenery and unforgettable hospitality of the natives of Leepa Valley.
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