July 06, 2006

Chiniot, a tehsil of district Jhang, is one of the oldest cities in Punjab. Scattered in and around the city are a number of historical buildings which speak of a glorious past. One of them is Umar Hayat Palace, a three-storey building which stands in the centre of the city and is a great tourist attraction for both local and foreign visitors.

Umar Hayat Palace, also known as Gulzar Manzil, is a 19th century wooden architectural wonder. However, it has become a victim of neglect and will deteriorate further if proper steps are not taken for its conservation by the concerned authorities.

Members of the Sheikh family migrated to Chiniot in the 18th or 19th century from Calcutta. Sheikh Umar Hayat was born in a middle-class family, and later became a very successful trader. In 1923, he decided to construct a magnificent palace for his newborn son.

The task of supervising the palace’s construction was given to Syed Hassan Shah, who gathered many famous artisans from different places. The work continued day and night for 10 years. The wooden carving was done by Elahi Bukhsh Pirjha and Rahim Bukhsh Pirjha, masters in munabat-kari.

Gazetteers Vol.XXXII, Jhang District, 1929, states, “The house built by Sheikh Umar Hayat is a sort of local wonder, as it cost more than Rs200,000 to make and rises high above all the other buildings in the area.”

Gulzar Manzil, unique in its conception and execution, is a masterpiece of Mughal art work and is probably one of the last buildings in the subcontinent to be constructed on Mughal architectural patterns. Its construction shows strains of European, Muslim and local architectural heritage.

The ground floor has seven rooms and a kitchen. Both the first and second floors have extended engravings, painting, munabat-kari, pichi-kari, stucco and intricate brick work. The second floor is more or less the same.

The ceilings are so beautiful that it is hard to take one’s eyes off the bewitching stucco blocks, most of which still retain their bright colours. The doors and windows are fitted with multicoloured glass pieces. The carving on the windows and wood panels follows both Mughal and Roman motifs.

It is unfortunate that Hayat passed away just a year before the completion of the haveli. Following the death of Hayat’s wife, and then the demise of their only son at the time of his marriage, the rest of the Sheikh family decided that the haveli was cursed and vacated it. It was left to the whims and wiles of servants who illegally appropriated it and proceeded to denude the palace of its fine woodwork and wrought-iron features, in order to sell them.

Later, the building was used as an orphanage and modified with a cluster of small structures. In June 1990, the palace was taken over by the government with the efforts of then Deputy Commissioner of Jhang, and a lengthy programme for its renovation was chalked out.

However, after a couple of years, work was suspended on the pretext of lack of funds. Only the ground floor and some part of the first floor could be restored. It has now been converted into a museum displaying the antique heritage of Chiniot. A library has also been established here, containing thousands of books, daily newspapers and periodicals.

In this world of tasteless uniformity, Gulzar Manzil stands as a reminder of the creativity of the human spirit.

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