June 29, 2006

Last year, Salt ‘n’ Pepper Village, arguably one of Karachi’s most popular restaurants, mysteriously burned down and stopped operating for some time. Now, however, after a long hiatus, it is back in business. It turns out that the management seized the opportunity to completely redo the restaurant with a change in the theme itself –– from being a quintessential ‘Punjabi village’, the restaurant now offers diners the experience of ‘dining in a traditional Sindhi village’, as claimed in the menu card. Correspondingly, the décor and menu have been considerably revised.

While most of the décor is certainly authentic, some aspects are not quite up to the mark. The traditional designs on the walls, the wall mountings imitating the elaborate designs of truck fenders, and the creamy yellow reception area all appear very welcoming. The main dining area, however, is a let-down as it has been done up in a rather poisonous shade of pistachio green that clashes thoroughly with the red blinds and steel warehouse-esque ceiling, affecting the ambience.

An interesting touch is added to the whole experience by the live music, which consists of a tabla player and a wandering baansri player who weaves his way between the tables. However, it would be better if he stuck to the traditional tunes one expects to hear from a baansri and refrained from playing film songs at the behest of some diners!

The most disappointing factor of the new facelift, however, is that the balcony where one could sit out in the open and take the meal while enjoying the sea breeze, is no more. Seating is now restricted to the indoors, although the huge windows looking out onto the beach do offer some consolation.

The menu has also been changed considerably, as the more traditional Punjabi dishes have been replaced by Sindhi ones. While stalwarts like haleem, nihari, paaey and chicken tikka are still very much there, quite a few other dishes have been done away with. The menu is now more exotic and innovative. A lot of seafood has been introduced such as calamari, squid, ladyfish, along with the more common fried fish.

Fried quail has always been one of the delicacies served at such restaurants, but now quail eggs have also been added. They are even in the nargisi koftay, which normally use regular chicken eggs –– perhaps this is some sort of substitute in the wake of the bird flu?

Chinese dishes have been introduced as well; nothing out of the ordinary ––– egg fried rice and two or three different kinds of beef and chicken gravy to accompany it.

Looking around the buffet area, one cannot help but notice the reduction in the number of the main dishes. The manager, however, insists that the number remains ‘about 50 to 60’. Either way, it is gratifying to find that the quality and taste of the food is excellent as ever.

The haleem and nihari make one go back for second helpings regardless of how heavy and rich these dishes are. The barbecue items –– beef and chicken seekh kebabs and chicken tikka, were also very good, although the tikka was a bit undercooked.

The real surprise, however, was the fried squid. I had misgivings about it, as it is very difficult to cook well, but in fact it turned out to be quite exceptional. The calamari, on the other hand, was a bit rubbery.

To accompany the meal, a variety of juices are served, along with the ubiquitous soft drinks. These, however, are not up to par with the rest of the food, and the peach juice in particular is not recommended.

No meal is complete without dessert, and many goodies await the sweet-toothed here such as delicious gulab jamuns, kheer, firni and kulfi, not to mention, of course, the candy-floss machine for children. Other than the kulfi, which was a bit disappointing, all other dessert items were excellent, as expected.

For those who don’t enjoy sugary items or are weight-conscious, an assortment of fresh fruit is also available, so that they, too, can enjoy a second course without envying those rushing for the gulab jamuns!

The turnout was a bit low, when compared to the huge crowds one saw in the past, but this can be attributed to its very recent reopening and the fact that it was a working day. However, there is no doubt that, with their innovative new menu –– how many other buffets in the city will you find serving squid? –– and their consistent quality and high standards, the restaurant will soon regain its former glory.

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