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May 18, 2006
The city of Gothic spires
Gohar Karim writes about the cultural and aesthetic appeal of the city of Oxford, which is often overshadowed by the presence of one of the world’s most prestigious academic institutions in the city
The city of Oxford is famed for being the home of Oxford University. What some forget, and many never realise, is that there is more to Oxford than the university it houses. People living here are tremendously proud of its academic prowess and stature and also revel in its vivacious city-life. The Oxford experience ranges from its breathtakingly beautiful colleges to its intoxicating concert halls and theatres.
Last summer, marriage brought me to Oxford and to be entirely honest, with some apprehensions (with regards to the city). The hesitation was based on the disappointment of not living in London, which was indeed the plan until my husband got a new job in Oxford. With hindsight I realise how naďve and misled I was, as living in Oxford is one of the best things that could have happened to us. It has not only made me more aware of the aesthetic side of life, it has also given me a chance to appreciate art, heritage, great minds, warm people and invigorating beauty.
At five minutes walk from our house is one of Oxford’s most beautiful parks, known as South Park. We speak of it as our ‘huge back garden’. As you walk down South Park you suddenly find yourself face to face with Oxford’s dreaming spires, flourishing in their age-old existence, embodying the grandeur and wisdom often associated with the city. What Oxford may look like from the great heights of one of these spires is not merely left to the imagination, as it is very possible to climb one of the towers and drink in the majestic beauty of the city.
In the summer one can find the parks filled with people, basking in the much-welcome sunlight, enjoying picnics and barbeques, perhaps just walking their dogs or even pouring over text books and laptops. Not long ago we discovered yet another spectacular park called Christchurch Meadow which is adjacent to the Botanic Gardens. Though in a hurry to get home, we were pulled down magnetically by the brilliance of the grassy fields and remained sprawled over them for a long time. Transfixed by the deep blue above and the lovely green below, we watched as excited tourists enjoyed the punting and rowing.
It is tempting to get carried away with describing the aesthetic beauty of Oxford at the expense of unfolding its other attractions. The city centre is the hub of activity –– it is indeed the heart of Oxford, thriving and bustling with locals and tourists. Shoppers bravely keep adding on the shopping bags, tourists are spoilt for choice of photograph spots, and others just out to have a coffee and watch street entertainers perform.
On a bright and sunny day the experience is all the more special. Here you will find the Ashmolean Museum where it’s impossible not to admire the structure as much as the treasures it contains within its tall, intricately carved walls. In awe and silence, admirers are seen touring the building, exploring various sections dedicated to Egypt, Greece, Arabia to Europe.
Not far from this is the all-famous Sheldonian Theatre. For hundreds of years this has been the centre of concerts, plays and exhibitions. World famous actors, dancers and musicians have stepped on its stage, providing entertainment to people who attend from all over the globe.
The Oxford Playhouse, too, provides great entertainment and pleasure to the locals and can be recognised by the queues outside! We have frequented the place ourselves and have witnessed some remarkable performances including Oscar Wilde’s The importance of being Earnest and Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
My husband, who has a passion for opera has taken me to some dazzling performances at Oxford’s New Theatre. The one that continues to ring in my mind is Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro, every minute of which was packed with musical genius. Though I may never be able to love opera as much as my husband, I have certainly begun to understand his passion for it. I have come to realise that one of the greatest strengths of this city is it allows you to be complete in a very Aristotelian fashion –– to have sound professional knowledge coupled with a love for the finer aspects of life and art.
The city houses dozens of libraries, the most famous of them all being the Bodleian, which is the main research library of the University of Oxford. It’s vast collections are used by scholars all around the world, many of its contents being rare and invaluable. Other libraries are generously scattered all over the city and can be found in the most curious of places. I still remember encountering a most quaint little library tucked away in a corner at a large park on a high street. Oxford’s ‘Centre for Islamic Studies’ is also a source of information and research, offering degrees, seminars, fellowships and indeed casual advice and counsel.
Interestingly enough, Oxford is the place where Alice in Wonderland and the Looking Glass stories were invented, as it’s the birthplace of Lewis Carroll and his real-life inspiration Alice Liddell. Located in an inconspicuous part of the city centre, almost opposite Pembroke College, is ‘Alice’s Shop’ which offers the largest and most fascinating collection of ‘all things Alice’. From toys to ornaments and tableware to barley sweets, this tiny little shop has it all.
In terms of restaurants and hotels, one is spoilt for choice in Oxford. Thai Orchid, Mamma Mia, Browns and Fishers are just a few interesting names. What is more exciting to me, as a die-hard dessert fan, is George and Davies (popularly known among locals as G&D). The first claim to fame of this little place is that it is not a commercial chain churning out mass-produced ice-cream, but is ‘Oxford’s own’ and is very individual. The ice-cream here is, without a hint of exaggeration, exceptional.
Hindsight is indeed a remarkable thing. I now realise how lucky I am to be living in a city like Oxford, which can look gorgeous even in grey January. We are often intrigued by the peacefulness and warmth that penetrates us while driving towards the city from London, but I think deep down we know the reason only too well.
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