February 16, 2006

Those of us who have lived in western countries for long periods fully appreciate during our brief, periodic visits home, the strength of the emotional, cultural and family bonds that tie us to Pakistan

As the plane came in to land from the western skies an early morning hour in late December, Karachi below presented a spectacular show of glistening lights, a city tranquil and seemingly at peace with itself. The airport, showcasing the face of Pakistan to the arriving passengers, comes as a pleasant surprise. It is meticulously maintained and in respect to its cleanliness and appearance is superior to London’s Heathrow and a number of American airports.

In contrast, the scene at the immigration lobby was of chaos and confusion, which had been exacerbated by the simultaneous arrival of two flights from the United States that had completely overwhelmed the system. The wait for completion of immigration paperwork proved interminable, but once these were over, other formalities, such as customs and baggage retrieval, which used to be a nightmarish experience in the past, proceeded easily.

How quickly a person coming from outside gets adjusted to the pace and tune of life in Karachi seems almost surreal. Since my last visit there three years ago, the city has changed in some measure and not necessarily all for the worse.

Today, the streets are crowded with expensive, gleaming foreign cars, while sights of quaint donkey or camel carts, redolent of a bygone era, are vanishing. Pakistan has been undergoing an economic boom, with the stock market surging, some evidence of this prosperity can be seen right on the city streets.

The city now has countless high-quality restaurants and cafes, offering a variety of local and international cuisine, that are always overflowing with customers. Pakistan overall has done well economically, and the country’s GDP, a rough measure of its prosperity, is an impressive 6.4 per cent during 2003-2004.

Unfortunately, the income gap between the rich and poor has also widened, and the benefits of a strong economy are yet to filter down to the common man. However, this income disparity is not unique to Pakistan only as the phenomenon is shared by a number of developed countries as well. A recently released report from Washington’s Policy Institute indicates that rich families in the US earn 12 times more money than the poor, and while the income of high earners has doubled during the past two decades, those of the poor has remained static.

My two-week stay in Karachi, this January, coincided with the city’s annual wedding season. The weather was sunny and balmy, ideal for visitors from overseas. A whole generation of Pakistanis has settled in North America or Europe and who, in a yearly ritual, return at this time to visit family and attend weddings. The marriage ceremonies over the years have morphed into elaborate, luxurious affairs and even though the serving of meals on these occasions is officially banned, the law is widely ignored.

Interestingly, in some respects, Karachi and the whole country seems to have adopted the practices of some Mediterranean countries, such as Italy and Spain, where celebrations traditionally continue late into the night. A Karachi feast these days typically starts at midnight, ending several hours later. It mystifies me how the guests who get home so late manage to function the following day. Apart from any social and work-related considerations, staying up so late regularly at night is not a wholesome practice as it disrupts the body’s natural circadian rhythm, its sleeping and waking patterns.

However, not all contemporary social trends are unhealthy. Many Karachi residents have come to appreciate the benefits of regular exercise. While on early morning walks in the neighborhood, I occasionally noticed other men, walking or even jogging. Their effort is especially commendable, since there are few proper pavements even in affluent areas and the unruly traffic makes walking a hazardous activity.

Many who can afford the expense take advantage of the exercise facilities offered by various social clubs. Interestingly, on more than one occasion, seeing me walking prompted some kind-hearted motorists to stop and offer a ride, which I declined with thanks. Such random offers to strangers would be inconceivable in an American city.

Many of the city’s teaching institutions are making a major contribution towards training young students in technical professions, preparing them for careers in Pakistan. The increased visibility of women, in particular, in many professions today is a very reassuring sign and bodes well for the future.

During my visits to Karachi, I have always enjoyed spending time browsing in the myriad bookshops of Old Urdu Bazaar. The traffic has become much worse now and it has become virtually impossible for vehicles to negotiate the narrow, congested lanes of the Bazaar. But anyone willing to brave the traffic woes is amply rewarded.

The collection of books is now richer and more diverse. One can find books by Indian authors, besides recent western best sellers. Although the prices have escalated sharply from previous years, the major problem remains the transportation of books from Pakistan to overseas.

After many years, I had the opportunity to celebrate Eid-ul-Azha with my extended family in Pakistan. However, it was sad to observe that the obligation of sacrifice had in many cases become an ostentatious ritual, an exhibition of riches.

In the days preceding Eid, some houses put on display a veritable collection of cattle — goats, cows and an occasional camel —attracting a host of curious onlookers. This profligacy seemed completely unnecessary at this time when many in the northern regions of the country are suffering from the terrible consequences of a natural catastrophe. I was especially dismayed that there were no voices from among the spectrum of political or religious leaders that suggested, perhaps just once, that part of the money should be donated to help the earthquake victims.

Finally, those of us who have lived in western countries for long periods fully appreciate during our brief, periodic visits home the strength of the emotional, cultural and family bonds that tie us to Pakistan. The visits also bring about the realization that the comforts of life, efficiency and better career prospects offered by the developed countries come with a significant cost.

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