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February 9, 2006
On the head
Hats, turbans and scarves have been important fashion accessories as well as symbols of social and religious standing for centuries
A dorning the head has been a practice since time immemorial, irrespective of social, cultural or religious norms. There are thousands of headgears popular all over the world ranging from turbans, hats, caps, scarves, helmets or hoods. Even masks, veils, hoods and wigs are technically classified as head-dresses.
People from nearly all societies have worn headgear to either show their religious inclinations, their status in society or simply to be protected from the harshness of the elements such as the Bedouin Arabs. In ancient times, it was the headgear and the army's emblem that distinguished warring sides.
Turban
The turban has been worn for thousands of years. For Muslims and Jews, it holds a strong religious significance. The Old Testament has numerous references of Moses wearing a turban. Our own Holy Prophet (P.B.U.H.) wore an austere turban as did all his companions. The Sikhs are perhaps the most devout, in the present day, in wearing the turban in their unique style that has become a mark of identity for them all over the world.
In ancient times, the Egyptians wore turbans as an ornamental head-dress. It was called the pjr and was removed at the time of mourning. Interestingly, the turban in Punjab is called pugger or pugri, a similar sounding word. In Punjab, too, a turban is removed during mourning.
It is also considered a crucial part of a man's honour and variety of rituals are practiced to manifest its importance. For instance, a turban is removed and placed on the feet of a person to beg and plead for a special favour or to declare complete subjugation. Similarly, it is removed in the presence of a venerable figure like a teacher or a ruler. A new tribal chief or spiritual leader is initiated into his role by placing a turban on his head; this is quite similar to a coronation ceremony of a monarch. In the Baloch culture, the elaborate turban or dastaar is perhaps the most significant manifestation of a man's status in his tribe.
In Indian Rajasthan, exchanging turbans means an extension of friendship. Trampling a turban is considered a grave insult. Similarly, the eldest son of the family is made to wear the deceased father's turban after twelve days of his demise to show the succession of responsibility. Turban also serves to categorise different Rajasthani tribes, for example in Udaipur, it has a flat surface, while in Jaipur the turban has a knot on the top.
The Mughal emperors improvised the turban a great deal and brought a rich Persian, Turkish and Mongol influence to it. As the dynasty progressed from Babar to Akbar, the royal headgear, too, progressed from relative austerity to an elaborate splendour of colours and jewels. The ostentatious turban of Emperor Jahangir has been recorded by Francois Bernier, a historian, who says, "The turban of gold cloth, had an aigrette whose base was composed of diamonds of an extraordinary size and value, besides an oriental topaz which may be pronounced unparalleled exhibiting lustre like sun.”
The commoners during the Mughal era wore a much simpler turban called Kaj Kullah, which was worn by the Pakistani bridegrooms till a few years back. The wedding attire of a Pakistani groom is now a beautiful variant of the Balochi dastaar.
Hats
The hat has been a very popular head wear. It became a part of fashion in the late 14th century and for women it became an essential fashion accessory by the 15th century. Soon, the traditional hat was modified with a variety of fabrics such as silks, taffeta, velvet, leather, felt and satin being used.
Men's hats represented their roles in society as well as their intellectual leanings. For instance, the formal tall stiff top hat represented the authority of the bourgeoisie, aristocracy, and those who were involved in elite professions and trades. Likewise, the informal soft trilby felt hats which symbolized democracy and revolution, were generally associated with intellectuals, artists and country life.
During the Edwardian era the wearing of hats reflected one's status in society. Milliners or hat makers were highly sought after. Although most of the style and decorations of hats were improvised and innovated in England, it was France that became the notable name in millinery. French hats were considered the hallmark of fashion and style. Hats, however, underwent a sharp decline during the '60s. Now they are used more as a fashion accessory than essential attire.
Caps
They are one of the most popular head-dresses still in fashion. Caps are generally soft and often have no brim, just a peak (as on a baseball cap). Much suited for athletes, it is commonly worn with minor variations by cricket, baseball, tennis and derby players. One of the reasons for this head-dress still being in vogue would be the patronage by renowned sports gear companies.
Caps also include popular varieties such as the beret; a soft visor-less cap with a head band and a wide round top with a tab in the centre. In the 16th century, the beret, in many colours of velvet or silk and richly jewelled, feathered and slashed, was made fashionable by Henry VIII.
The fez
Formerly the national head-dress of the Turks, it is usually red and shaped like a truncated cone with a long black tassel on the top.
Bonnets
Caps with strings tied under the chin were worn specially by western women till the 19th century. They are now worn largely by children.
During the time of partition in subcontinent, the Jinnah and Nehru caps were blatant declarations of the wearer's political affinity.
African head-dresses
Perhaps the largest variety of headgear is found in the continent of Africa. The African head-dresses are truly artistic and a strong means of communicating a wearer's profession, status, religious leaning and tribe.
The African head-dresses are highly inspired by nature using elements such as bird feathers, beaks, horns and animal hides. Many head-dresses emulate wild animals to manifest a unique quality associated with the animal, for instance, the ferocity of a tiger or the daintiness of a peacock.
In some tribes, like the Baga of Southwestern Guinea, the elaborate headgear forms an essential part of a funeral, agrarian and wedding rituals.
In the words of Mary Jo Arnoldi, curator of African ethnology at the American National Museum of Natural History, "Head wear is one of the most inventive art forms to come out of Africa. These works of art illustrate how people use hats to construct social identities, and to enhance and transform their lives.”
Head wear over the centuries has lost its cultural and social significance with the onset of an urbanised life and the gradual erosion of traditional values.
As cultures move beyond geographical borders, people have stopped wearing head-dresses that manifest their nationality. Status symbols have changed, too.
Sadly some head-dresses are associated so strongly with religion or philosophy that the wearers feel discriminated upon. A case in point is the Sikh community that was attacked after the September 11 incident in America as they were mistaken for the Taliban.
As time progresses, the ethos of head wear will perhaps fade away, however, with constant rejuvenation of old fashions, headgears would keep reinventing themselves in one form or another.
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