August 25, 2005

The number of sites on the World Heritage list is a barometer of the cultural importance of a nation. Those countries that wish to promote themselves as culturally significant strive hard to place more and more sites on the World Heritage list. Pakistan, with its treasure house of heritage spanning 8,000 years, could have many more, but has only seven on this prestigious list, writes Yasmeen Lari

In an age of globalization and all-pervasive technology, there is an expected deficit of creative and cultural forces. Thus, increasingly, it is nations with treasure houses of heritage and culture that will become the most sought after destinations. Why then are heritage and culture not part of Pakistan’s development strategy?

There is a general consensus, whether they be the Nobel Laureates of Economics or World Bank presidents, raising the question not whether culture matters, but how it matters in development. We, in Pakistan, are lagging far behind in integrating protection of heritage sites in development activities.

These should range from preserving heritage centres as part of economic and urban development, safeguarding heritage sites and monuments for poverty alleviation, from transferring the benefits of heritage for community enterprise and community involvement to rejuvenation of traditional crafts, music and dance for community benefit through cultural tourism.

There is much talk regarding presenting a soft image of Pakistan. Surely, it is ‘Cultural Pakistan’ that we need to promote, not only for the outside world but equally for ourselves through preservation of our invaluable heritage spanning several centuries.

What is this heritage that we need to safeguard? It is not a few selected sites, but thousands of them which Pakistan is blessed with.

From Mehergarh to Moenjodaro and Harrappa, the legacies of Alexander and Mohammad bin Qasim, the Buddhist monasteries of Taxila and Takht-e-Bahi, the Hindu Shahi and Sikh temples, the funeral clusters of Makli, Multan and Ucch Sharif, the Chahar Baghs and jewel like edifices of the Great Mughals as well as the shared heritage with Britain, all need to be saved.

Equally valuable are our historical centres, stretching from Khyber to the shores of the mighty Indus –– Peshawar, Multan, Thatta, Sibbi, Karachi and scores of others, which are our living cities, exhibiting the irreplaceable architectural heritage, the organic urban morphology and the traditional value system which are gravely threatened today due to commercial vested interest and insensitivity of local development authorities.

This great, diverse heritage is the family silver which has been given in our custody to be preserved and maintained for the future generations and is the basis of our distinctive identity in an increasingly globalized world.

The concerted efforts required by federal and provincial governments include preparation of national inventories; strengthening protective legislations, regulations and administrative framework for cultural heritage; enhancement of awareness, instituting conservation planning process, capacity building and training heritage professionals, and most of all developing partnership among stakeholders including the community. Sadly, there is insufficient national concern in prolonging the life of our heritage which is irreplaceable — once lost it can never be retrieved.

Lahore Fort and Shalamar Gardens

Director General Archaeology, Punjab, Orya Maqbool Jan Abbasi, a civil servant and a writer of repute, is upbeat about the various works to be undertaken by the Punjab government. He said that the recommendations included in the Master Plans of the Lahore Fort and Shalamar Gardens developed as a result of the support provided by the Government of Norway. The Getty Grants, will also be implemented soon..

He further stated that the Punjab Government has allocated 300 million rupees for each site for the next five years so that conservation could be taken up on a sustained basis. This is the largest allocation ever made for heritage sites, which will also address the issues of rehabilitation of the buffer zones of both the sites.

He stated that “the area on the front (south) of the Naqqar Khana comprising 18 kanals of land is being developed for visitor’s facilities, the diversion of G.T. Road to protect the ruins of the hydraulic remains will be implemented to create a garden like buffer on the south of the present entrance, and the Naqqar Khana itself is being conserved during 2005-2006. Additionally, the encroaching structures on the eastern side are being acquired to provide a pedestrian zone according to the Master Plan recommendations.”—Y.L.

There are some laws but they seem to be inadequate as the loss of heritage is occurring at an alarming rate. The Federal Antiquities Act 1975 provides protection to historical monuments and archaeological sites, while two provincial laws govern the protection of local heritage: Punjab Premises Act 1989 and Sindh Cultural Heritage (Preservation) Act 1994. Almost 600 historical buildings of Karachi that were catalogued by the Heritage Foundation Pakistan (HFP) are protected, overnight demolition and delisting notwithstanding. In Punjab the list, which should have been much longer, consists only of a few scores of historical buildings. The NWFP and Balochistan are still without such legislation, making all local heritage vulnerable and prone to destruction.

Our family silver consists of the smallest relics built prior to 1947, as well as the vernacular architecture of mud, brick or stone, wood and thatch. We have been given a greater responsibility –– to safeguard our heirlooms, the World Heritage Sites, which are considered valuable for the entire world. They are considered heritage of universal value which must be safeguarded for future generations.

The number of sites on the World Heritage list is a barometer of cultural importance of a nation. Those countries that wish to promote themselves as culturally significant strive hard to place more and more sites on the World Heritage list.

Pakistan, with its treasure house of heritage spanning 8,000 years could have many more, but has only seven on this prestigious list, two of which are jointly inscribed, which actually reads the number as six.

The list was formed as a result of 1972 UNESCO Convention to “safeguard cultural and natural heritage of outstanding universal value for future generations”. Pakistan is one of the 177 signatories around the globe. Today, this convention is considered the leading instrument for the protection of the world’s cultural and natural heritage.

Joining this convention implies that the signatory states, in addition to the national and local sites, would embark on their mission to safeguard the world heritage in their custody. The list is not constrained either by the size of the nation, the literacy level, the lack of development or poverty levels.

The convention provides an equal opportunity to all nations to promote their heritage by presenting dossiers regarding their sites. Unfortunately, Pakistan has been unable to get the list extended, even though, according to World Heritage Report published by UNESCO World Heritage Centre, 128 new sites from the Asian region were inscribed in March 2004.

It is not considered enough to get the sites inscribed by any state party. It is equally essential to provide the commitment and resources for their protection and safeguarding. In Pakistan, due to the awareness regarding the value of cultural heritage, the situation is improving. However, most of the world heritage sites are in a state of apathy and desolation.

The heritage sites on the World Heritage List include Moenjodaro (2500 BC) and Makli Necropolis (Thatta Monuments) (15th-18th century AD) in Sindh, Takht-e-Bahi in NWFP, and Taxila and Rohtas Fort (1541) in Punjab.

The remaining sites i.e. the Lahore Fort (1580s) and the Shalamar Gardens (1641-42) are on the World Heritage danger list. This is actually a warning that if immediate action is not taken, the sites may be taken off the list altogether. Shalamar Gardens were threatened when, in 1998 during the course of the extension of the G.T. Road, the historical Mughal hydraulic tanks of the garden were irretrievably damaged.

In the case of the Lahore Fort, the continued sagging and deflection of the famed Shish Mahal (Hall of Mirrors) ceiling had rung alarm bells. The situation at both the sites was aggravated due to encroachments, intrusive development and loss of the mandated 200 feet buffer zone stipulated in Pakistan’s Federal Antiquities Act.

With the work being undertaken under the UNESCO-Norway-Government of Punjab Lahore Fort Project since 2003, and those being planned by the Punjab government for both the Shalamar Gardens and the Lahore Fort, there is hope that, in the near future, the two sites would be restored to the World Heritage list.

The most famous of sites known all around the world is Moenjodaro, the Mound of the Dead. A well planned and modern metropolis was built to exploit the Indus river system as far back as 2600 BC. The citadel itself is visible as a gigantic seven meter high mud brick platform which formed the base for elevating structures of special significance. The grid iron street system of narrow shaded streets, drains and wells, all constructed with brick, provide a source of wonder and amazement at the ingenuity of the inhabitants of Indus Valley Civilization.

Safeguarding heritage

Shanaz Ramzi, Chairperson, Karavan Pakistan Events Management Committee, engaged in the heritage cleaning of Lahore Fort, says:

“In my experience of working in historical places, we found that the cleaning activity helped to create awareness in the youth. At the Lahore Fort, many students who lived in Lahore and had seen the historic citadel, never felt appreciation and ownership as they did on the day they were part of the voluntary cleaning team. I feel that every time they go back they will look at it with a different perspective, with a feeling of ownership that it belongs to them and they need to take care of it.

“Similarly, when we invited the corporate sector and other organizations to create volunteer teams to clean the historic Bandookwala Building/Post Office Plaza on I.I. Chundrigar Road, they first thought it was an expensive and a very difficult task. They were surprised that it only took a little of the right kind of detergent and water to clean up the façade. It is due to Karavan’s efforts that there is now a visible urge to clean historical buildings. Many well meaning people who either sand-blasted the facades or cleaned with inappropriate materials, thus damaging the historic structures, have now realized that the work can be carried out at a fraction of the cost by consulting conservation experts.” n —Y.L.

Taxila Museum

Curator of Taxila Museum, Ilyas Bhatti, says that substantial funding has been provided by the Ministry of Culture for the upkeep and rehabilitation of the museum. In order to protect the boundaries and buffer zones of the sites, the controversial stadium walls have been demolished and fencing is being provided.

Another source informs that in addition to the provisions by the government of Pakistan, there is a lot of interest from various other countries. Japan has always been an enduring partner and has been providing support in kind, and is in the process of finalizing funding for protection of Gandhara reserves and provision of museum interactive technology for school children. Korea is considering providing funding for excavations at Jaulian II and the Thai government is considering developing a garden in the compound of the museum.

The railway station at Golra Sharif, restored as railway heritage by the Pakistan Railways is another bonus for the Taxila site. —Y.L.

For many years an extraordinary amount of funds were expended to keep the salinity at bay by lowering the water table through tube wells. Funding was also diverted towards construction of spurs to protect the ruins from the Indus when in flood. A more recent innovation has been to provide a sacrificial layer of mud to all the exposed walls, since it was found that the salinity in the air was more damaging than the salinity in the soil.

As the sacrificial layer keeps disintegrating, it is continuously replaced to provide protection to the original brickwork. Unfortunately, however, it is no longer possible to distinguish the original brick masonry because of interventions that have been carried out over several years.

The work now is mostly at a standstill for some years. It is unfortunate that a site of such great importance has not received the attention and care which it deserves. More importantly, although much funding had become available through a world-wide campaign, it did not translate into benefits for the surrounding community. The villages around Moenjodaro appear as desolate and neglected as the great site itself.

The ancient city of Taxila (sixth century BC), a flourishing centre of the Achaemenian Empire, was located on the crossroads of China, Central India and Persia. Occupied by Alexander in 327 BC, it was ceded to Chandragupta Mauriya in 303 by Alexander’s successor Seleucus Nikator.

The Buddhist culture flourished in the region under Chandragupta’s grandson Ashoka. The remains of the city are spread over 10 square miles and the most famous of the sites is Jaulian with its monastery and stupas located at a height of 300 feet. Most of the sculpture pieces have been removed from their niches in the walls and are now displayed in Taxila or Peshawar museums, but the site is well maintained.

The British period Taxila museum is a showcase of Buddhist artefacts. The interest of Japan in the preservation of these sites has played a very important role.

Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of the remains of Takht-e-Bahi (First century BC). An extremely picturesque site which is accessed through a steep climb, 150 meters above the surrounding plane, has a view that is simply breathtaking. The amazing Buddhist monastic complex of the Kushan empire established by King Kanishka, is in a sad state of disrepair.

The neglect of this area cannot be justified. Unlike Taxila, it receives few visitors, although if properly maintained, it could draw an equal number of tourists. The Gandhara sites are facing pilferage and smuggling of artefacts on a large scale, with apparently little control of the authorities on the situation .

The Makli necropolis at Thatta, 100 km north of Karachi, was established as a holy place of worship by Shaykh Hammad Jamali and his royal devotee Jam Tamachi. Spread over an area of six square miles it has magnificent structures of monasteries, mosques, tombs and graves.

Consisting of structures representing 15th century pre-Mughal and Mughal periods in Sindh, its earliest Samma cluster contains the famous tomb of the great Samma ruler, Jam Nizamuddin, a structure ornamented with lace-like devotional carvings.

In spite of the fact that it represents the high point mark in the history of Sindh, the site has been sorely neglected. The artefacts and beautifully carved headstones are regularly pilfered. The unkempt and neglected condition of the site presents a picture of apathy. This eternal abode of royalty and saints has all but been given up by both the government and the people.

Sher Shah Suri’s great fort constructed to impede an attack of the Mughal emperor Humayun. It dominates the rugged terrain of the Jhelum Hills with its lofty gateways and embattled walls, rising to a height of 50 feet, enclose 260 acres of land. The site was largely neglected even though it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1998.

The village established within the ramparts is a matter of concern as it will be a challenge to successfully integrate the village with the heritage site. The federal government handed over the site to the Himalayan Wildlife Fund which is engaged in the fundraising and conservation work of the fort. A review has so far not been conducted to ascertain the direction and methodology of work undertaken at the site.

Both the Lahore Fort and Shalamar Gardens are among the most important Mughal monuments. Lahore Fort is often considered the jewel in the crown of heritage sites in Pakistan. Imbued with layers of history and once part of the living, traditional city of Lahore, this Chahar Bagh (paradisal gardens) citadel is unique in representing the works of all the great Mughals — Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb.

Built on an earlier mound, the present configuration is justifiably attributed to Akbar — the master of fortifications. Where the various spatial characteristics define public, semi public and select areas, exquisite palace buildings border various quadrangles of the imperial district.

Takht-i-Bahi

Director Archaeology, NWFP, Dr Ihsan Ali, is of the view that among the Gandhara monuments, Takht-i-Bahi has a unique position and is the most exciting of all. He felt that there was a lot of room for improvement in the conservation work being carried out by the Federal Department of Archaeology.

The two-storey high walls of the historical structures were in a precarious condition and unless urgent measures were taken, there is a likelihood of a collapse. He said, “If the monument is transferred to the provincial government, we may be able to maintain the site in a much better way, since local administration and people, who have a stake in the site, will be then taken into confidence and will get involved.” He regretted that there were no road signs to identify the heritage site and until recently, even drinking water was not available for visitors.—Y.L.

The most beautiful of the quads is Shah Jahan’s Shah Burj (Royal Tower) quadrangle which contains the Shish Mahal (Palace of Mirrors). The external western and northern walls of the citadel rise to over 60 feet and are decorated with scintillating tile mosaics representing figures and court scenes, angels, and floral and vegetal arabesques.

Although a lot of conservation is still to be carried out, the Shish Mahal ceiling, once highly endangered, has now been reconstructed through the Norway-funded project.

Shah Jahan’s Shalamar Gardens, designed as an imperial staging ground, were laid out on a huge scale. The three-terrace Chahar Bagh was provided the water supply to its descending levels in the flat Punjab plain from a specially built canal.

The high perimeter walls enclose parterres and plantation, water tanks, channels and fountains, along with an elaborate cascading arrangement in the middle terrace.

When lit by oil lamps through an ingenious Chini Khana arrangement, a bewitching, fairy tale environment is created. The gardens have suffered a lot of neglect in the past, and some insensitive interventions have tampered with many of its essential features.

The Shahi Hammam, the gateways and perimeter wall, the sophisticated tile mosaic and remains of fresco, all need immediate conservation measures. Some work is currently underway through the World Heritage Centre emergency assistance and a modest Getty Grant.

The Shalamar Gardens and Lahore Fort were transferred by the Federal Government to the Punjab Government in 2004. Substantial allocations have been made by the Punjab Government for the two sites, with plans to restore the buffer zones and begin preservation work on both the sites.

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