March 17, 2005

Amid the cacophony of noise from myriad rickshaws and donkey carts, and the squalor of its modern-day environs, the Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) stands as a silent yet majestic, if somewhat damaged testament to the glory of hedonistic princes, the rise and fall of empires and the whispers of secret lovers.

No sightseeing trip to Lahore can be complete without a visit to the fort. It doesn’t matter how many times you see it, you will discover something new at every visit. Sadly, most visitors do not take the time to delve into the history of this magnificent structure.

In fact, few are aware that the Lahore Fort is actually one in a trio of forts built by the Mughals; the other two are in Delhi and Agra.

Covering an area of 375 by 300 metres, the Lahore Fort has been cited as one of the most impressive Mughal buildings in the subcontinent. Embellished with red sandstone, marble, glazed kashi work and beautiful frescoes, it is really more of a palace than a fort.

While Akbar constructed most of the structure in 1566 AD, there is evidence to suggest that a mud fort stood in its place in 1021 AD. In fact, some historians theorize that there may have been a succession of forts on the site. Whatever the truth, the present day fort is a joint work of art by at least four Mughal emperors: the erstwhile Akbar and his descendants, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb.

The first attraction for any visitor to the fort is the entrance or the massive Alamgiri Gate, built by Aurangzeb in 1674. The gateway is flanked by the famed semi octagonal bastions. A short way uphill to the left, is the Shah Burj Gate built by Shah Jahan, which was exclusively for the use of royalty.

The elaborate kashi work and the painted frescoes on the gate are the first in a series of reminders of the influence of Hindu craftsmanship on Mughal architecture.

Inside the Shah Burj Gate, lies the Elephant Path or Hathi Paer, a series of 58 massive steps providing access for the royals to their private apartments. The arched balconies overlooking the Hathi Paer give it a timeless feeling.

At the top of the Elephant Path lies the most exquisite building in the entire fort, the Shish Mahal or Palace of Mirrors. Enclosed in a courtyard with tanks and mirrors, Shah Jahan’s royal residence is decorated with convex mirror mosaic set in an arabesque pattern on the walls, ceilings and arches. Over time, the mirror work in the building has been tremendously damaged. However, thanks to UNESCO, the Shish Mahal is currently being restored to its former glory.

The courtyard of the Palace of Mirrors is an interesting mix of the old and the new. While artisans are working painstakingly to restore old frescoes and paintings, history stands still in the form of the Naulakha Bangla (built by Shah Jahan at the cost of Rs900,000), which was at one time in laid with precious stones like jade, agate and lapiz.

While many smaller buildings exist outside the Shish Mahal, the fort’s other main attraction is Shah Jahan’s Quadrangle, located at the centre of the north wall. The crowning glory of the Quadrangle is the white marble colonnaded pavilion, known as the Diwan-e-Khas or Hall of Private Audience along with the Khawabagh-e-Shah Jahan. The Diwan-e-Khas was built in 1645 and was used by the king to receive dignitaries and state guests.

In the northeast is Jahangir’s Quadrangle, which was started by Akbar but completed by his son in 1618. The quadrangle has a central tank and fountains, which were converted into a tennis court by the British. Thanks to restoration efforts the tennis court is long gone. Jahangir’s private sleeping chambers occupy the north of the quadrangle, and the Diwan-e-Aam or Hall of Public Audience is situated in the south.

While the rear court, also known as the Daulat Khana-e-Khas-o-Aam was built by Akbar during his reign (with the Jahroka (State Balcony) at its centre), the rest of the Diwan-e-Aam (comprising 40 pillars on a raised platform) was built by Jahangir. During the British, the Diwan-e-Aam was used as an army hospital, a fact still apparent in the rails running across the pillars in order to support hospital curtains!

On the way back to the main gate, the first major building is the Makatib Khana or the Secretariat, where the palace records were kept. Last, but by no means the least, is the beautiful Moti Masjid, named so because of its pearl-shaped dome, which was built by Shah Jahan and also renovated recently.

 

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