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February 24, 2005



A home away from home



By Arman Sabir


Today, the Afghan camps have almost become exclusive neighbourhoods. In the oldest camp at Sohrab Goth, which was established in the 1980s, resident Abdullah Mohammed, who is from Takhar, says that no citizens except Afghans are allowed to enter it without the permission of the tribal chief, writes Arman Sabir

Shafiqullah is saving up for his wedding. He’s only 14, but he needs the head-start because the Rs500 a day he earns by making clay flower pots goes into feeding his family.

He needs to save a minimum of Rs50,000 if he wants to marry, because in his culture the man has to pay ‘dowry’ to the girl’s family. This may sound like an unusual custom in Karachi, but in the neighbourhood where Shafiq lives — an Afghan refugee camp — it is the tradition.

The word camp belies the length and breadth of these settlements, which have almost become little Afghanistans in their own right. They are places where men like Shafiq, born in Karachi but Afghans by ancestry, have created a separate world for themselves.

Shafiq is just one of the estimated 0.44 million Afghan refugees and their families who live in Pakistan at present. In Karachi their camps are located near Al-Asif Square, Sohrab Goth and in Surjani Town off the newly-built Northern Bypass. Each of them has approximately 3,000 houses. There are smaller camps such as Koochi near Toll Plaza on the Super Highway, and Faquira Goth near Safoora Goth in Sachal.

A cocktail of issues including the war on terror, security problems, unemployment, sectarian and ethnic unrest brought the focus on aliens and refugees in the city. In 2003, the United Nations Human Rights Commission (UNHRC) started a repatriation programme for Afghan refugees living in these camps.

The camps were formed over time to handle the influx of Afghans fleeing their country due to the Russian invasion. After the Taliban regime fell in 2002 and a US-backed government came to power, the Pakistan government established the Afghan Refugees Repatriation Cell in the ministry of SAFRON & KANA.

There were an estimated 0.51 million refugees at that time and so far 72,000 have been sent home. Around 35,000 refugees were repatriated in 2003, while 36,000 left Pakistan in 2004. Most of the refugees living in Karachi hail from the Afghan regions of Kunduz, Kabul, Baghlan, Takhar and Sar-i-Pul.

But the story of the Afghan refugees did not end with repatriation. About six months ago Shafiq and his family packed up their lives in Karachi and went back to Afghanistan. “For two months we stayed in a village in the northern part of Baghlan,” Shafiq says. “But when we didn’t find jobs and our savings were nearly spent, we made up our mind to go back to Karachi. I don’t intend to return to Afghanistan now because we are happy in this city.”

There are many others in Karachi who have a similar story to tell. They went back to their homeland, many under the repatriation programme and others voluntarily. But the uncertain economic climate there and a shaky law and order situation made them wonder if it was worth weathering the tough times all over again. “I don’t want to go home,” says Sharafuddin, a madresa teacher in the city. “If I am forcibly sent back by the UNHRC, I’ll find a way to escape.”

The idea of repatriation is especially unappealing to the second generation Afghans whose parents fled Afghanistan. “I have never seen my homeland,” says 24-year-old Mohammed Yusuf, who grew up in a camp here and is now earning a living as a madressa teacher. “I did not take any interest in the recent elections in Afghanistan and I didn’t care who became the president.” Now all he wants is the citizenship of Pakistan.

Some older Afghan refugees have managed to acquire Pakistani citizenship. Haji Habibullah, who came to Pakistan before the invasion is one such person. He used to live in Koochi but has since moved to Surjani Town. Habibullah says that almost half of the population living in the Surjani Town camp left for Afghanistan with the help of the UNHRC. However, many of them returned to the city after just a few months.

The Afghans who braved a brief stay in their homeland but decided to come back are likely to pursue some sort of legal status for living in Pakistan. But this is a problem. The National Aliens Registration Authority (NARA), which was set up to register illegal immigrants, does not register people who migrated from Afghanistan.

They all have refugee status. “Afghan refugees cannot be treated as foreigners and thus the Foreigners Act of 1946 does not apply to them,” says a NARA official. But people like Mohammed Yusuf are not “refugees” or “foreigners”. Their parents and grandparents were refugees, but they were born here. What is their status now and will they be eligible for Pakistani citizenship?

While answering to the question of the legal aspects of their status one has to keep in mind the factor that these Afghans in Pakistan do not want to be repatriated to a country they never knew or where they do not think they would be able to live a decent life.

The children of Afghan refugees question why they should leave at all. They have a home away from home in the camps. The living conditions may not be the best; families live in randomly constructed huts and hovels made from bamboo and bricks laced with mud. The streets are so narrow that only a donkey-cart can pass through, and there are frequent power breakdowns. But the camps are their home nonetheless.

When the repatriation programme gained steam many Afghans who returned to their country, sold their shanty houses to locals at rates ranging from Rs20,000 to Rs30,000. But according to police officials, they never owned the land in the first place. The government had given the Afghan refugees land when they had arrived, but it never belonged to them. This complicates the legalities of ownership for Pakistanis who have bought land from the Afghans.

But the word ‘camp’ does not quite convey what these localities really are; they have metamorphosed from grounds with makeshift tents, but have yet to become full-scale developed residential neighbourhoods with proper infrastructure. “We do not have a proper government clinic or hospital,” says Shabbir Mohammed, a carpet weaver. “We have to go to private clinics, which are very expensive.”

Today, the Afghan camps have almost become exclusive neighbourhoods. In the oldest camp at Sohrab Goth, which was established in the 1980s, resident Abdullah Moham-med who is from Takhar, says that no citizens except Afghans are allowed to enter it without the permission of the tribal chief.

This has posed a challenge to the authorities since many camps are suspected to be home to criminals, the camp behind Al-Asif Square being the most notorious. A police official claimed that even the police had to seek permission of the tribal chief before embarking on a patrol.

In other camps it is better than it was three years ago; today at least a heavily guarded police mobile can enter some of them and take a round. Earlier police entry was always resisted. “We have controlled the law and order situation in other camps and police can patrol there but any other civilian should not enter without informing the police,” says the official.

While the police did not offer any data, one official claimed that Afghans were becoming more and more involved in crime. “You can hire a professional killer from an Afghan refugee camp for as little as Rs2,000,” says another police official. He claimed that crime had affected the reputation of the neighbourhood around Sohrab Goth and the value of surrounding residential complexes came down as the population of Afghans increased.

In 1990, the government initiated an operation in the camp with the intent to scatter the population and break up the crime circles. “We surrounded the camp from all four sides and entered,” said a police official. “We faced strong resistance but managed to confiscate hundreds of kalashnikovs, TT pistols and other arms and ammunition, in addition to several types of narcotics.” A resident recalled that it was the worst operation he had ever seen. “I have never heard such intense firing in my life.”

The government subsequently decided to relocate Afghan refugees to Surjani Town, Safoora Goth and Toll Plaza and set up check-posts in many areas. But, today, the majority of them continue to live in the camp near Al-Asif Square and 14 years after the crackdown, the police claim that you can still hire an assassin for a pittance. “We are still cagey about patrolling the area,” said a police official.

But just as not all Afghans are refugees not all of them are criminals. Many of them make a living in the construction industry and the Afghan carpet is famous all over the world. The carpet industry flourishes in these camps. Mohammed Akbar, who hails from Takhar province, takes three months to weave a 20 by 20 feet carpet for which he is paid a mere Rs150 per day.

The camp is where this trade is being passed on to the next generation. “I grew up here and became skilled at carpet making,” Akbar says. “Now I’m married and my younger brothers are learning how to weave.” He was not sure that he wanted to uproot his life here and go back to Afghanistan. “First we will go there and take stock of the situation and then we will decide whether to stay there or return to Karachi,” he says.

Others made up their minds when they came to Pakistan in the first place. “It has been a long time now,” says Abdullah, who works in a factory. “My children are the third generation living here and we need Pakistani nationality. We are citizens by birth and our children have grown up on this soil. Why are people talking about our departure to Afghanistan, where law and order is not good and jobs are not available?”

This is a question that will have to be answered at some point in time. But for now, the Afghans have managed to make for themselves a home away from home.

 

Afghan customs



By Tahir Zaman

There is a maxim, ‘dry bread at home is better than roasted meat abroad’. It seems the Afghan refugees living in Karachi aren’t sure of getting even dry bread back home. Afghanistan, the playground of the great game of the past, is ravaged by the present day great game to such an extent that it is virtually impossible to lead a normal life there.

Some Afghan families tried to return to their homeland during the Taliban regime and later when Hamid Karzai assumed the reins of government. Almost all the families who went back were unanimous in their conclusion that Afghanistan was a very inhospitable place with very difficult living conditions. Therefore, they migrated back to Pakistan.

The Afghans are very traditional people. They would rather die than give up their values. Finding the prospects of returning to their homeland grim they have tried to transform Sohrab Goth into a mini Afghanistan.

A visitor to Karachi would find Al-Asif Plaza at Sohrab Goth, a replica of an Afghan town. Their markets, dresses, greetings, festivals and houses are all reflective of the Afghan culture. All the ethnic groups of Afghanistan; Pakhtoon, Uzbek, Hazara and Tajik can be found in the camp.

The Afghans have retained their traditional shalwar kameez which is similar to the Pakistani one with a difference in cutting and stitching. A typical waistcoat would differentiate them from local Pakhtoons.

The joint family system is prevalent among them, but the limitation of space in flats has forced larger families to live in two or three contiguous flats.

The festivals of Eid and weddings truly highlight their culture. One interesting activity of Eid is the duel of boiled eggs. The game is called tukhamjangi. In this game, one player very delicately rams an egg onto the egg held in the hand of his opponent. The person whose eggshell cracks first is the loser.

Afghan weddings are very colourful. A typical sound made by the combination of a tambourine and clap tells from a distance that a marriage is in full swing.

The business area of the camp resembles that of any typical Afghan village bazaar. All that the inhabitants of a town require is sold here. The restaurants serve an Afghan menu and are designed in such a way that there is an elevated platform called a tharah (in their language), along all the walls of the restaurant. Rugs are spread on the platform and centre dishes are placed on them. In rare cases some restaurants have dining tables, as well.

The dishes most popular with customers are Afghan rice, seekh kabab, boti kabab, and Afghan green tea. The ingredients in the rice are beef and carrots and no spices are present in it. The boti kabab is different from the local ones in terms of the fat content. Here lamb meat is sandwiched between lamb fat and then grilled.

The first item given to the customers is Afghan naan. The naan is very small in diametre but is very thick. The next item served is rice. After a brief break the customers are given Afghan green tea. The tea is served with nokal, specially made sweets, and are called lachidana in Urdu. It is prepared by coating almond with sugar.

The Afghans living in the camp are in all sorts of businesses in the city, but the most popular are transport, cloth and the restaurant business. They are not only contributing to the economy of the city but are a source of foreign exchange for the country as well. Most Afghan families have one or more members living in the US, Europe and the Middle East who send their earnings to their families in Pakistan.

The older generation continues to cling to its traditions, though it has reconciled itself to the local values as well. The young ones are more flexible. They have adapted themselves to the local culture and environment. They speak fluent Urdu albeit accented, and play and watch cricket with the same enthusiasm as any Pakistani would. They also ascribe to the local food and dresses.

The second generation seems to have followed the wisdom concealed in the age-old maxim: ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do’. Enterprising and hard-working by nature, the Afghan migrants have added to the rainbow of cultures that exist in Karachi, itself a mini-Pakistan.

 

‘We love Karachi and its people’


Mini Afghanistan abounds in stories: stories of personal valour and sufferings, of warlords, Taliban, President Hamid Karzai, of opium, Amrica and her weaponry, and of streams, rivers and orchards. Here every Afghan has a story to tell. Among the stories this is the personal tale of hardy and resolute Haji Muhammad Rasool, the owner of an Afghan restaurant in Al-Asif Plaza, that deserves special mention.

Rasool belongs to the Kunduz province of Afghanistan. He migrated to Pakistan in 1985 when he was 19. He got married in his native village when he was 18. “A man has to earn his living, especially when he has a family,” said Rasool. Finding no prospects of survival in his native country, he migrated to Pakistan leaving behind his newly-wedded wife with his parents. It took him 31 days to reach Pakistan. “I found Pakistan safe and the public friendly towards Afghan refugees, but getting a job was not easy.”

After seven months Rasool decided to bring his family to Pakistan. The ordeal of migration with a family, especially with a 40-day-old child, was filled with hardship. They had to hide in jungles and cross rivers using inflated tubes to avoid the Russians. “I thought I would lose my child,” exclaimed Rasool with wet eyes.

One can still see on his face the traces of the agony that he had endured at that time. “With swollen feet we reached the border of Pakistan.” He settled in Karachi and for 14 years he worked as a labourer in all sorts of businesses. “Many times my ego was badly injured.The treatment that I received as a labourer wounded my self-esteem,” he said.

Rasool decided to perform Umra and he promised to himself that he would never serve under someone else again. His prayers were heard and on his return to Pakistan he started a public call office with a partner. Later on he opened a tandoor selling Afghan naan and his business boomed in no time. Humble pride oozed out of his eyes while he told his story of establishing the restauraunt he runs now. He has been running it for the past five years with great success.

During the 19 years here he has visited Afghanistan many times with the hope of settling there, but always returned to Pakistan finding Afghanistan very hostile. He has five daughters and four sons. All of them are studying in English medium schools and his first-born is a college student who speaks excellent Urdu and, surprisingly, Sindhi, as well.

Rasool has given up the dream of returning to his native village now. “This country has given me so much that it is my home now, my Afghanistan,” he says. With great pride he says that he pays all his taxes which most Pakistanis do not.

“Home is where one can live with dignity and Karachi has given me that dignity. We love this city and its people. It’s the city of the poor. We are Pakistanis and would like to remain Pakistanis if allowed,” said Rasool said at the end. —Tahir Zaman

 

The reason for not returning


Muhammad Qasim’s reason for staying on in Pakistan is economic. He migrated here 15 years ago. He said that he wanted to study in his native village but the Russians closed the school as they thought most schools served as a nursery for physical and spiritual training of future mujahadeens.

Students used to be branded as ashrar, meaning terrorist or rebel by the Russians. Students of secondary classes went into hiding. ‘Search and destroy’ operations followed by torture, were a usual thing. The tormented people started fleeing the area and some went to Iran and others to Pakistan.

“My parents sent me with a caravan heading towards Pakistan,” said Qasim. He travelled from town to town and ultimately reached Karachi where he received a degree from Binori Town madressa. After getting the degree he went back to Kabul with the aim of equipping his fellow countrymen with, in his words, zaiwar-e-taaleem meaning knowledge.

“I found the Americans in Kabul distributing free television sets,” said Qasim. He applied for a school teacher’s job and was selected but he declined the job as he was not prepared to follow the school’s dress code which was wearing a suit.

He sought other avenues for livelihood but failed as his beard was a hindrance. “What kind of democracy are the Americans trying to implant where one is not allowed to live a life of one’s own liking?” he questions. Qasim left Kabul for Karachi with a gloomy heart. He started his career as a manager in a small enterprise and is happy here. When asked whether he would go back to Afghanistan he replied , “For what? There is nothing left in Afghanistan except the Americans and opium.” —T.Z.



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