January 6, 2005

Cholistan has a chain of about 35 medieval forts providing a panoramic view to visitors. These forts are located on, or close to the former flood plains of the Hakra River all along its 300 mile course, and were built to protect the inhabitants of Cholistan desert from invaders.

The most impressive and attractive among the Cholistan forts is Derawar Fort. It was the capital of former Bahawalpur State in the beginning of the 18th century and was named after its founder, Dera Rawal Singh, a Bhatt Raja.

Derawar Fort, with its bastions looming above the vast stretches of sand presents quite a spectacular vision, especially as you wind your way through the narrow lanes where the inhabitants still occupy the surrounding village, and approach the mound on which Derawar Fort stands. The climb up its walkway leads you to the impressive, heavy doorway and you can actually visualize the nawab’s army in all their finery marching in and out of it.

However, the minute you enter it you have to hold your nose for dear life’s sake, for the stench that accosts you is unbearable. Centuries of deposits of bat droppings have formed such heavy layers in the covered gateway area that they make your senses reel.

As you walk through the huge fort, you are consumed with mixed emotions of pride and depression. You see yourself in crumbling, dust-laden surroundings that bear all the traces of a majestic past and you wonder if this magnificent structure will survive the vagaries of time much longer.

Its 40 bastions made of burnt bricks of varying sizes; its elaborately carved doorways; hidden tunnels, with tracks to convey trolleys — supposedly to cart valuables out of the palaces — and its quaint rooms with fresco work on the ceilings and pillars, and tiled floors transport you to an era of splendour and intrigue. It also brings you, with a thud, back to the harsh reality of our magnificent heritage caving in before our very eyes because no effort is being made to preserve it.

In marked contrast to Derawar Fort is the marble mosque located outside it. An impressive structure, it was built by Nawab Bahawal Khan III in 1825 on the lines of Jamia Masjid, Delhi.

Equally attractive is the royal graveyard located not far from Derawar Fort. A very well-maintained, serene and beautiful environ, it has the nawabs along with their eldest sons, buried in its long main hall, the facade of which is decorated with intricate meenakari. The spacious premises also houses individual tombs adorned with jaalikari and meenakari, where the daughters and wives of the nawabs are reportedly buried. One tomb is particularly striking and is believed to have been built for the foreign wife of one of the nawabs.

Mercifully, at least the graveyard has been preserved, attracting tourists from far and wide. One only wishes that all our other prized architectural heritage could be taken care of, too, so that the world could see the wealth of history and culture that Pakistan boasts of.

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