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December 9, 2004
A different experience
Karachi now has its own “little Italy” with the opening of the Italian restaurant Pompeii on Zamzama. This small bistro offers a variety of home-made pastas and pizzas as well as some beautifully decorated desserts.
The brainchild of two friends and gourmands Imran Bandukda, 30 and Kashif Sattar, 32, the restaurant is the culmination of their desire to do something different from their individual family textile businesses and their fondness for good food. “We both really like Italian food,” says Bandukda, “And we thought there was a gap in the market so this was a good opportunity for us.”
They chose the short, easy to pronounce name “Pompeii” because of the inspiring old story of the city being leveled over and over again by Mount Vesuvius but always rising phoenix-like from the ashes. “It had this ‘come back’ spirit through the ages and we saw this as being symbolic of hope,” Bandukda explains.
Although the restaurant is thus named, the dishes served are from both northern and southern parts of Italy. Some of the not traditionally considered Italian dishes on the menu, such as rack of lamb, are paired with typical Italian side dishes like risotto or creamed spinach. “We have tried to keep a few of the dishes very authentic Italian,” states Bandukda, “And have avoided heavy flavourings or creamy sauces and have chosen to rely more on quality of ingredients than anything else.” In fact, the owners have started importing ingredients in an effort to ensure their top quality.
The result is that although the ingredients used are fresh and of superior quality, the flavourings of the dishes are generally mild, authentic Italian and so may not appeal to a typical desi spice-loving palette. One patron, for example, bemoaned the lack of “flavour” in the foods and promptly requested some Tabasco sauce. Other patrons, however, who enjoy traditional Italian cuisine welcome the alternative to spicy dishes. Some visitors have complained that the helpings are very small, unable to satiate the appetite.
The ambience of the restaurant needs a little more Italian-like and cozy atmosphere. One difficulty the restaurant is experiencing is the timings of the cooking, especially the pasta. The recipes selected are very good, however, and it’s likely this technical matter will soon be fixed as the chef and kitchen staff gain experience.
The salads and pizzas are better. The spinach and feta cheese salad, in particular, is very well made with a subtle infusion of flavourings, but cannot rival the far superior salads currently available at few other restaurants. The pizzas, on the other hand, are a goldmine. With thin crusts and rich flavourings, they are truly Italian and world apart.
While American pizza-loving patrons will shun the thin crusts and virgin oil-based toppings, true fans of authentic Italian cuisine will appreciate the delectable offerings. With six full-size pieces in one pizza order, this is an ideal dish to share or indulge in. The range of gourmet pizzas include chicken, spinach and feta cheese, roasted chicken with oven-dry tomatoes, shrimp and pesto, marinated peppers in white sauce and the particularly decadent, roasted eggplant and mushrooms.
An undoubted charm of the restaurant is its home-made pastas. “All pastas except penne and spaghetti are made on the premises so we can flavour and colour them accordingly,” states Bandukda. A large number of the pasta dishes are surprisingly light and very well suited for patrons who don’t care for heavy meals. The one notable exception is the popular Pantacce Pesto, which is a very heavy but an extremely delicious dish. In fact, it is quite out of the world with its strong flavourings and combination of pesto sauce and fresh pine nuts mixed with basil.
As for the desserts, they are quite exquisite in presentation, particularly the bread pudding, but unfortunately looked better than they tasted. This is one area where perhaps the recipes themselves should be reconsidered. Furthermore, the chocolate cake took 15 minutes to prepare and this should be detailed in the menu so interested customers can order it in advance.
One thing very impressive about the restaurant is its warm, welcoming service. Not only are the waiters happy to recommend dishes or see to your needs, the maitre d’ personally presents you with the restaurant’s visiting card upon your departure.
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