July 1, 2004

The Hoat Baloch moved south along the coastal areas due to siltation of the Kalmet bay. They were dependent on the grazing fields of Las, Bela, Kohistan and the valleys of Malir and Mol rivers (the present day districts of Lasbela, Dadu and Karachi).

One of their first settlements was at Bala, near the valley of Winder River. The deteriorating climatic conditions and failing rains compelled them to move to areas in Kohistan which were under the influence of the Bulfats.

Their further drift to the valley of Hub River proved fateful. Kalmatis, as they are called now, loved it and they came to identify themselves with the area. They adopted the old graveyard at Bhavani Sarai which is situated on the RCD Highway near Hub town. The graveyard is an important archaeological site visited by thousands of enthusiasts every year.

This graveyard is evidence of the tribal movement through these valleys apart from being a tool in examining the ever developing art of erecting and carving beautiful graves. It has specimens of developing styles of ‘Rumi’ or ‘Ghari’ (the carved grave).

These exquisitely carved graves are in a very bad shape. The fallen structures present a view of unwanted heritage. This order of things is encouraging people to take away the meticulously carved slabs. With each slab gone we are losing touch with the past as the graves carry names of the persons interned.

Only serious efforts to maintain the graveyard will end the free for all attitude and inculcate preservation of heritage. The preservation required includes restoration of fallen structures and replacement of missing members.

The Bhavani Sarai graveyard provides knowledge about the arrival of tribes from Iran and Balochistan to the coastal towns of Sindh, including Karachi, in the late mediaeval period.

The Kalmati Baloch and localized Jokhio tribes besides the hill tract inhabitants including the Bulfat tribe were the major players in the history of southern Sindh and lower Balochistan. Local folklore and poetry is full of the exploits of these people, but it fails to provide any time relevant information. This graveyard provides us with lots of inscriptions, names of tribal chiefs, their descent, their titles, and above all the time frame in which they lived.

Conservation work on this site will be welcomed by the locals as well as all heritage lovers in Pakistan.

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