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June 17, 2004



Tomb raid



By Dr Kaleem Ullah Lashari and photographs by Waqar Ashraf


The Baloch tombs near Memon Goth predominantly contain graves of the Kalmatis, a Baloch tribe. The Kalmatis are basically a subtribe of the Hoat Balochis, who came from Iranian Balochistan into Pakistani Mekran, and formed a sovereign state at the coastal port town of Kalmat Bay, which is why they came to be known as Kalmatis. The chivalrous Kalmatis have no documented history and the major evidence of their tribal activity is reflected and can be traced through their graves.

The vast area of Kohistan of the lower Khirthar range and the coastal areas in Sindh and Balochistan boast of unique treasure houses. This comprises stone carved graves in clusters which dot the desolate, arid landscape. According to estimates, based on the explorations of the last 20 years or so, there are more than 200 large and small graveyards, consisting of exquisitely carved graves of immense beauty.

It is a curious fact that the design of these graves is unique. The decoration applied on these graves is a special feature. The combination of patterns is unusual. Bold geometric motifs and floral designs with an interplay of light and shade are used on the graves.

It is strange that these graveyards are the only remains that have been passed down to us from the past. There is yet to be found any settlement which could be dubbed the dwelling place of the people who loved beauty in death also. These monuments hold secret information about their builders; they are a chronicle in stone.

The graveyard known famously as the “Baloch Tombs” is the richest of all graveyard sites, situated around Karachi. This graveyard provides an important source of material as far as the history of the Kalmati tribe and other related people is concerned.

This area was inhabited by the migrating Baloch. Since then it has been a constant testing ground of their tribal power vis-a-vis major tribes adrift valleys of Mol and Malin. These graves were developed by those who were roaming the Malir and Gadap valleys.

Many graves proudly indicate the identification of tribal chiefs and famous men buried there. Even the budget involved in the erection of the monument is also found inscribed on some of the graves. Thus the inscription often helps in assigning a correct time frame as the probable period of the prominent person’s life, and helps in understanding the right sequence of tribal traditional events.

These sorts of graveyards have easy access and this single fact has greatly threatened these important sites. The mass of archaeological evidence lies scattered for plunderers and free booters to take away at will. The unplanned and ill planned urban expansion too is eating away at these historical sites.

The earlier graves can be dated from the early 14th century, when platform burial was preferred, in line with the local Zoroastrians who influenced practices, and there followed the dressed stone slabs, which continued to receive more and more attention of the carvers over the passing decades. The carved graves in their typical form are found in various graveyards around Karachi, and the valleys of Mol, Malir and Gadap can safely be labelled as being from the 15th century AD and onwards.

As the areas around Karachi have no documented history, the only available evidence are the archaeological remains. There is no doubt that the Baloch Tombs with epigraphical recordings are a major help in understanding the historical trends of the late medieval period, and the spread and distribution of various tribes and their major sub groups, as well as the movement of craftsmen in the regions.

Ravages of time and rapid growth of urban centres have threatened this man-made beauty; great loss has also been caused by so-called cultured free booters to these treasure houses of art, culture and history. If this state of affairs is allowed to continue, there is every possibility that a posterity will be deprived of the pleasures of this aesthetic account, and will be at a great disadvantage of losing its links with its heritage.



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