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February 19, 2004
A long way to go
Zamzama boulevard is often referred to as the hotspot of eateries in Karachi. Perhaps rightly so, as it lays claim to numerous notable gourmet delights for the average foodie. The latest newbie hoping to cement a place for itself in Zamzama’s cuisine hall of fame, is Sr. Frango - Portuguese Grilled Chicken (since the writing of this review the restaurant has now changed its name to Sr. Frango — Portuguese Grilled Cuisine). Situated where the now defunct New York Cafe used to be, the restaurant opened its doors to more than a few expectations.
The first thing one notices while climbing up the stairs to the restaurant is the welcome addition of a bar in the entrance/waiting area. Having a bar is no doubt a popular fad in almost all successful restaurants today, but one wonders how often they are frequented, if at all.
Nevertheless, the ambience of the place is pleasing enough to the eye, though one can’t help but notice how highly reminiscent it is, of its predecessor. The silver funk look still very much remains, and there is apparently nothing Portuguese about the place at all.
Once seated, we were greeted by the menu. Judging by popular opinion on our table, this was one of the definite lows of the evening. Though reasonably priced, if variety is what you are looking for, the menu can best be described as limited.
All said and done, the starters appeared appetizing enough, and thus their Frango Wings were given a shot. Luckily, they did not disappoint. Six pieces of wings in special herbs and sauces, with fries on the side - the dish was quickly lapped up by all. Succulent and tender, the wings were of reasonable size also, which is always a plus. Hence, despite the disenchanting menu, the success of the starter managed to muster up expectations for the main course.
Of the little choice we had before us, our group decided to order their Signature chicken (quarter), Cafe de Paries fillet steak (half), and the Piri Piri Chicken (half). The biggest let down were the portions. Going by the size of the wings, one estimated the quarter chicken to be enough to satiate at least a mildly hungry appetite, but this was not the case; however, even their half portions were of less than satisfactory size.
The Signature chicken, one can tell, is obviously meant to be the identification, the very trademark of the restaurant and its menu. My sincerest advice to the management would be to rethink this strategy immediately. The chicken was not only dry, but extremely bland also. Not to mention, that there was no hint of any sauce on the side. The only saving grace of the dish were the fries.
The Cafe de Paries fillet steak did not fare much better either. The confusion began with the menu itself - though it was not specified, one was expecting chicken, but was lumped with beef instead. I suppose it was our fault, how could we be hoping for chicken steak in a grilled chicken restaurant? We should have known better...and in case you haven’t figured it out already, yes, I am being entirely sarcastic here.
The problems did not end here, though. There seemed to be an inconsistency with the grilling, because while one piece was a little too well done, the other was left too rare. Those who ordered the dish had an altogether unsavoury experience. At the end of the Herculean effort of actually chewing the meat, one friend lost all feeling in her jaw, while the other went home practically hungry. Enough said.
All was not lost though. The Piri Piri chicken was no less than a revelation. The chicken was tender, well seasoned and tasty to boot. Special mention here must go to the Piri Piri sauce . Slightly spicy, a little sweet, it was enjoyed by everyone at the table.
A good dessert offering undoubtedly has the capability of saving an evening from culminating in total disaster. Regrettably, this was not to be. Upon inquiry, we were informed that the only dessert available was ice cream — and that too vanilla. Need I say more?
Where the food failed though, the service excelled. Our servers were quick, attentive and unswervingly polite, which is always a bonus when eating out. Sadly, the service should never be the only prominent highlight of any food outlet or restaurant.
In my own honest and humble opinion, the restaurant has a long way to go before it can boast of any sort of steady clientele. If it wants to avoid prematurely shutting shop, or becoming just another has been, as so many restaurants in the past have, some serious rethinking is in order, in particular of the menu and the consistency of the dishes themselves. It’s early days yet, however, and if the restaurant can realize its own potential, and tap into it, there’s no reason it will not only survive, but thrive also. Here’s to hoping! — Batool Mehdi
Note: Before going to press, the restaurant added meat and fish dishes to its menu in light of the health scare associated with the bird flu.
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