February 5, 2004

A remote shrine in Sindh holds a captivated audience who come here in the hope that their prayers will be answered, writes Ashraf Amar Lashari

It is a chilly winter night at Pir Gaji Shah’s mela in Dadu district, and there is a woman who seems to be under a spell. As the music fills the air, she dances as though in a trance, her hair lays scattered around her face, and there are beads of perspiration on her forehead.

The bearded fakir of Pir Gaji Shah sits beside her, resting his hand on her as he recites “Allah tohar”. Then he asks the haunted woman, “Who are you? Why have you possessed this woman?” The woman replies in a heavy voice, “I am a faqir and this woman has fascinated me, therefore I have captivated her.” It is believed that this voice is that of a jinn who is haunting the woman and is responding to the faqir’s questions through her.

This ritual usually continues for half an hour. At the end of the session the faqir makes the woman promise that she will visit the mela again the following year, and assures her that the jinn will not trouble her anymore.

Such scenes are common at Pir Gaji Shah’s mela that continues for a week. Numerous women with problems of this nature go to the mela in the hope of being cured by the faqir.

Doctors say that such women are suffering from mental disorders and psychiatric conditions. They do not believe that they are possessed or haunted by spirits.

These women are victims of society that is largely responsible for their sorry condition, and especially so of the affluent members who care little for their plight and do even less to relieve them. Having exhausted all other means and having lost all hope, with no other way out, their last resort is to turn to their saviour, Pir Gaji Shah, for a cure to their afflictions. This is why they go there with their families to be cleansed and healed.

The shrine of Pir Gaji Shah is situated on a hill at least 30 miles south west of Johi town in Dadu district. It is said that Gaji Shah was a commander of an army during the Mianwale Movement. He died on the battlefield and was declared a martyr and then buried near Johi along with some of his soldiers. Because of his bravery and kind spirit he was made a pir. He is referred to as “The king of jinns” because he is believed to hold special powers that enable him to exorcise those who are possessed.

Thousands of pilgrims from far-flung areas visit the shrine to pay homage, most of who are women. They travel across miles of deserted land where there is hardly any human habitation except for a few huts and no basic amenities.

The devotees along with their families camp at the shrine under the open skies; they prepare their own meals and fervently pray for their wishes to be fulfilled, their problems resolved and to their deprivation ended.

Many also sleep between the graves despite the chill of frosty winter nights.These people and care little for creature comforts. Their search is for salvation, and they have faith that they will find it here.

The deserted area at the foot of the Kirthar mountain range comes to life during the mela. The pilgrims add festivity and gaiety to this wonderful event that in its own way becomes more picturesque given the landscape.

Many people from Johi town and the surrounding area attend the mela; the young come a few days earlier in order to get a nice spot for their tents. Vendors do roaring business selling sweets, dry fruits and toys. A circus is also held along with other entertainment. The mela is not an event to be forgotten and it draws pilgrims back year after year.

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